Toning foiled hair?

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Jodlouw

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May 25, 2013
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I have a client who is quite dark and has colour build up and she wants to go blonde. I've taken a test piece and done bleach 12% as I'm planning to do foils. It very golden, any ideas on what to do ImageUploadedBySalonGeek1396263092.626632.jpg
 
You should do a test piece with bleach and 6%. Lift it slower and get a cleaner result. There isn't any need to use 12%. It lifts it up way to quickly exposing all the warmth x
 
I agree with babychops, bleaching with 12% will also mean the toner won't last too long and you will struggle to cover the warmth.


Look at the strand test and asses what depth you are working with and also what tone.
 
I agree with the ladies above.. Don't use 12% not worth the stress. Use 6%... Slow and steady wins the rest and saves the hair
 
I used 6% and it didn't lift at all really. Her hair is really strong. Any other ideas?x
 
How long did you leave the 6% on for?
 
Under heat for 25 mins
 
What bleach and peroxide are you using? X
 
Using heat will make your developer break down too fast. You need to allow the product to stay on the hair (without heat) for a longer amount of time so that it can get right into the cortex and get at all that dark pigment, otherwise you are really just bleaching the cuticle and making the hair porous.

Mixing the bleach correctly, saturating the with enough product (not taking too thick highlights) and developing the hair slowly will all impact on how light you will get the hair, but if she has a build up of colour this may be a long term plan.
 
All advise given so far i back up.

Rules of bleaching:
Lower vol
NEVER EVER HEAT process!

By using to high a developer you can also shatter the colour molecules causing it to stain the cuticle and you will never get it out! Heat speeds up the action but not the clean lift meaning it never reaches the level you want and destroys the hair in the process.

It sounds to me like you actually need to do a cleanse before just going in with highlights to remove some of the build up and be realistic with what can actually be achieved here. You will not get a nice clean blonde first time round. Do a cleanse and aim at best for a blonde around a 7 and an all over of a 4/5 in Demi so it will fade and next time can go lighter.

You also need to update your profile properly x
 

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