Warm base 5 to cool base 8?

[rachel1234]

Hello,

I am trained as a hairdresser to level 2 but have been out of the salon for 2 years. Im not looking to get back into it but do cut friends hair still for a little extra cash.

One of these friends is desperate for me to colour her hair as she cant afford the salon right now. As Ive been out of practice for so long I wanted to brush up on colour theory.

She is a warm base 5 and swears blind its all virgin hair, the red tones are quite apparent. She's looking for a cool 7 to 8 base.

Now obviously 2 to 3 shades lift can be done with tint, if her hair is virgin as she says. Im not entirely sure I believe her and have told her my plans wont work if its not.

I was thinking of applying 8/81 or 8/11 and 12%,as a full head colour. As ive not coloured in ages, im not as knowledgeable on my theory, dont use it you lose it I guess.

Id love your opinions on what you guys would do. I've skin tested her today and taken a few test strands for me to try out.

 

[Dimitrees25]

Why 12%? I would tottaly use just 6% as higher volume ia going to strech the root a lot revealing unecessairy warmth. If you go with 7/81 and 8/11 with 20vol on the roots and 8/11 with 30vol on the ends it would be great.

 

[miss_eve]

You could take a test cutting of her hair just to check that there's no colour on there... because if you apply a tint it will only lift on the Virgin hair and then you maybe stuck with light roots/mids and darker ends. I also agree 12% isn't necessary 20vol or 30vol max if her hair is in good condition. X

 

[rachel1234]

I have tried the test cuttings, turns out that she has had colour on there, she must have thought it had grown out but tint is not lifting the mid lengths and ends.

Her hair is in good condition but is a little dry. She's also changed her mind and wants a multi tonal look so now im thinking full head highlighting with blondor and pastel then tone with a 9/1 mixed with 9/8?

The test strand i bleached is massively clinging onto the red undertones so will that toner be enough to knock it out or should I add a special mix to it?

I have explained to her that her hair is not going to be a cool ash in 1 session and she is happy with this, but really doesn't want red/orange tones.

Over time with more highlighting I should be able to get her to an ashy base 8.

 

[Dimitrees25]

I am.only conserned that her base will lift well and grab ash tones, when orangy and brassy midlengths are going to go darker if you use an ash toner.

 

[rachel1234]

The test strand I bleached lifted very evenly, root to end, I put a 1:1 mix of 9/1 and 9/8 and got the result in the picture.

I know she wants to go ash all over eventually, but if it goes too cool on the highlights its not going to look good with the red tone of her base colour.

 

[Dimitrees25]

Perfect. Then do that.

 

[Bella93xox]

I don't know if that looks like a 9 to me more of a 8 therefore toning with a 9 won't touch it. I think you'd get a better result toning with an 8. If she wants it ashy I'd highlight and flood with illumina 5/81 to kill the warmth xx

 

[Dimitrees25]

Just full-head highlight and if the base is too warm you can adjust the toner. I wiuld suggest a 7/73 toner, but as she wants a clearer result i would agree with 9/8 and maybe an 8/38.