Wella special mix

[Miss_ireland]

I had a client ( my friend )who was about a 4 dark purple and wanted to go lighter, I tested her hair and it went about an 8.4 after bleach bathing so I was happy I could get her a few shades lighter like she wanted.
So I referred to my colour chart and the only ash 7 koleston had was a 7.1 I knew it would still be warm but as it was the only ash I went ahead ....
Well on the day her hair didn't lift as well as I hoped it went more red than anything maybe a 7 , I knew it wouldn't be a great result but I just coloured it with the 7.1 she was happy but I knew it wasn't the result I hoped for anyway all I wanted to know was if I had the special mixes could I simply just add the required tone to neutralise the unwanted tones and would it just the same 11 rule ? If I added 4cm of 0/22 to 30mls of my 7.1 would it of been a better result or would that just make it a flat colour ??? I've used it for pre pigging but just wondered if I had them all and I could use them in this way it would be an easy solution to situations like this ???
I'm not very experienced in big colour corrections and I am signed up for a wella course this May and I will hopefully build up my colour knowledge with future courses but if anyone can share a bit of there knowledge with me that would be great x x x

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

If it lifted to red, that's the undercoat of a level 5 and below - to get a level 7 you need a golden copper undercoat, then you can apply your target shade. That hair needed to be lifted lighter before applying a level 7 tint x

 

[Miss_ireland]

Thanks yes that makes total sense should of lifted more but didn't want to risk condition of her hair as it's quite fine :/ so in that case ideally I needed to cover with a 5 and it would of been fine !

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

Technically it should have been a 5, but you would run the risk of it still looking very dark and the lightening process would have gone to waste, so I would personally break the rules a little and go up a shade to a level 6, but use a cool green-ash shade to counteract your red x

 

[Miss_ireland]

Does wella do a green ash ??? Are they green based maybe just a 6 or is this where I could add a little green special mix ? And yes I didn't want to waste the lightening process either I wanted her to feel it was at least 2 shades lighter after all that lol , I did of a t section of 3% bleach foils which just broke it up and gave her a little more lightness too x

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

If I remember rightly the wella special mix that you'd add would be 0/28 - I could be wrong about the exact numbering so please correct me if I'm wrong I would probably have used 6/0, or maybe 6/1 - it depends how cool you want it really. I often think a flat base like 6/0 and a touch of mix tone is just enough to flatten it out without making it feel dull or khaki x

 

[Miss_ireland]

/28 is green/blue I believe looking at my chart I have a new client with around 80% grey she wants 5.4 if I wanted to make that tone with the double base to insure grey is covered would I just add some /43 to the 55/0 ? I may just mix 5/0 & 5/4 but I'm worried it may be resistant :/ x

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

If she's 80% then standard base will normally cover nicely but if she's had issues in the past and you're concerned, then yes - double base and mix tone with the rule of 11 x

 

[Miss_ireland]

Thank you for all your help and advice you've been great x

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

Thank you for all your help and advice you've been great x

You're welcome! Hope all goes well for you with your lady x

 

[Miss_ireland]

Just to let you know I used standard 5 base and 5.4 and it covered lovely thanks I love 5.4 it's so rich x

 

[Miss_ireland]

Need more advise with special mix :/
wanted an opinion on a colour I'm doing on my mum , she has bout 80% grey and I do a global koleston 88/0 on her but it's just to warm (orange ) I have some special mix /81 and I'm going to try adding some to the 88/0 today! Do you think I should add the full 3cm of it to 30ml or would just a bit do ? Or if I'm way off please let me know I'm open to suggestions

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

Id start off with less and add more each time if she wants stronger tone - I've heard anything with /8 in it can be dense and make the colour look darker. Have you tried 8/0 and 8/1 instead? Or is she too resistant to cover with a normal base? X

 

[Miss_ireland]

I used 88/ and 1.5cm /81 and there wasn't much difference ,yes we have found her hair to resistant in places so that's when we use 88/ I is ok I just feel it's to warm so might just go with the full 3cm next time. It's my mum so she's fine being a guinea pig lol x
Thanks for reply x

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

I used 88/ and 1.5cm /81 and there wasn't much difference ,yes we have found her hair to resistant in places so that's when we use 88/ I is ok I just feel it's to warm so might just go with the full 3cm next time. It's my mum so she's fine being a guinea pig lol x
Thanks for reply x

Haha that's what mums are there for lol yes I'd go ahead and try the 3cm 😜 could always strand test maybe x

 

[kwoodsy]

Thought this might help.

The /88 is very dense and if there is a lot of white it can grab blue.

I think doing 3cm of /81 would be fine though as it's not as dense

 

[Miss_ireland]

View attachment 58747

Thought this might help.

The /88 is very dense and if there is a lot of white it can grab blue.

I think doing 3cm of /81 would be fine though as it's not as dense

Thank you I have this already I pinched it off another thread but it's fantastic really helps , thank you x