10vol vs 20

[Amonavis33]

Color theory question. I was wondering if KP 6/1 would turn out darker if using 10 vol VS when I use 20 vol? How much darker should I expect the colour to be when using 10 volume? The client is a natural level 6. This info will help me adjust the formula in advance. Thanks

 

[ronray]

Color theory question. I was wondering if KP 6/1 would turn out darker if using 10 vol VS when I use 20 vol? How much darker should I expect the colour to be when using 10 volume? The client is a natural level 6. This info will help me adjust the formula in advance. Thanks

6/1 with 10vol is pure deposit so you will get a true level 6 if the hair is already a 6 or lighter.
If the the hair is darker then it won't be any lighter afterwards.

6/1 with 20vol will give 1 level of lift, so initially it will look a little warmer than the standard 6/1 because the extra energy from the 20vol will expose the underlying pigment in the clients natural colour and then lay the 6.1 over the top. This will fade after a few weeks and reveal that slightly warmer colour from the exposed underlying pigment.

What is your clients needs?

 

[Amonavis33]

6/1 with 10vol is pure deposit so you will get a true level 6 if the hair is already a 6 or lighter.
If the the hair is darker then it won't be any lighter afterwards.

6/1 with 20vol will give 1 level of lift, so initially it will look a little warmer than the standard 6/1 because the extra energy from the 20vol will expose the underlying pigment in the clients natural colour and then lay the 6.1 over the top. This will fade after a few weeks and reveal that slightly warmer colour from the exposed underlying pigment.

What is your clients needs?

Thanks. That makes sense. I’m just trying a few different options for root touch ups for a few of my short haired, over 50% white, clients. I thought that maybe I would compare using 10 volume with KP vs Colour Touch Plus for roots, in between the full 20 volume KP service which I offer.

In the past I used 20 vol and KP every time but then I found the color would get progressively darker until the client got a cut. Especially on the shorter sides. Sometimes I would colour them every 3-4 weeks and if they didn’t get a cut for a few months, the overlapping colour would create some darker areas. It wasn’t too bad but I noticed it.

Now I’m trying to be more gentle and do the least amount required to make sure the hair stays in the best condition and doesn’t get too dark. In one client I’ve been going a half shade lighter each time I color until they get a cut, just to not overdo it. So initially I will use a level 6, then 3-4 weeks later I might use a 6.5, and then the next month I might use even a level 7. This has worked well to not create that darker, overlapping effect. Then when they get a cut, I start it over again with the level 6. Keep in mind these are clients with very short hair. What do you think?

I am also planning to try using a 10 volume in between and see if I prefer that.