Blonde tint new client

[dreamylocks]

Hi im level 2 qualified and been on and off hairdressing the past year as I've been lacking in confidence.... need my level 3 and I'm sure this will help.

Any way please see the picture of my clients hair she was dark level 4 box dye and has had quite a few trips to a different salon for full head highlights. It's lifted her to about a 8 or 9 on the ends but it's now pretty damaged and dry.

I was thinking of using a illumina 10/36 with 30vol. Can any one suggest a formula for kp wella and if I'm getting the right or not ?? She doesn't want a yellow tone and light as poss. I also think her natural is a 7 or 8 but I'm still not sure I'm guessing my levels right ??

 

[dreamylocks]

Hi im level 2 qualified and been on and off hairdressing the past year as I've been lacking in confidence.... need my level 3 and I'm sure this will help.

Any way please see the picture of my clients hair she was dark level 4 box dye and has had quite a few trips to a different salon for full head highlights. It's lifted her to about a 8 or 9 on the ends but it's now pretty damaged and dry.

I was thinking of using a illumina 10/36 with 30vol. Can any one suggest a formula for kp wella and if I'm getting the right or not ?? She doesn't want a yellow tone and light as poss. I also think her natural is a 7 or 8 but I'm still not sure I'm guessing my levels right ??

Also she went to a salon for all previous work but wants me to retint roots... first time client so I'd like to get this right first time around.

 

[Pancakes]

To me she looks like a seven. What do you think a 10/36 will do to her base with 30vol? Does a shade with as little pigmentation as a 10 counteract warmth while lifting especially if the first reflect is a gold?

 

[dreamylocks]

To me she looks like a seven. What do you think a 10/36 will do to her base with 30vol? Does a shade with as little pigmentation as a 10 counteract warmth while lifting especially if the first reflect is a gold?[/QUOTE

Thank you this is where I'm needing the help.
So of she is a level 7 then I need a 20 to lift two levels correct so of I pick a 9.1 and maybe add a little 8 with another tone or just base I'm not sure ??

 

[dreamylocks]

So basically if I did that she would get ginger gold roots

 

[Pancakes]

So basically if I did that she would get ginger gold roots

Yes.

 

[Pancakes]

So what can you do to avoid that?

 

[cassies97]

Yeah shes definitely on the darker side of a 7 nowhere near 8.

Think about what tones you're exposing when you lighten... /3 is yellow, you're going to add even more yellow with 10/36.

You need to neutralise the tones you're exposing.

 

[dreamylocks]

So what can you do to avoid that?

Not use a 3 gold... I need a blue ash to stop the warmth from lifting and I'm not sure if I need any violet for yellow under a 9 base ??

9.1 with 20vol ??

 

[cassies97]

Not use a 3 gold... I need a blue ash to stop the warmth from lifting and I'm not sure if I need any violet for yellow under a 9 base ??

9.1 with 20vol ??

/1 isn't blue.

Are you wanting to match the lightened lengths and ends or are you toning them?

 

[Pancakes]

Not use a 3 gold... I need a blue ash to stop the warmth from lifting and I'm not sure if I need any violet for yellow under a 9 base ??

9.1 with 20vol ??

Getting there! A 9.1 with 20 vol won't look terribly orange but that is not the optimum solution. Blue ash in wella is /81 as far as i know...

 

[dreamylocks]

/8 or /9 tone in wella then ?? And if I'm honest I was going to water the mixture down and apply for the last 10 mins....

Or do I use a new formula for toning the ends. She looks like a level 8 on the ends. And also definitely needs the warmth toning.

So also is the /1 green blue in wella good for anything or not ??

 

[dreamylocks]

And 20vol will be ok too I don't need a 30??

 

[cassies97]

So what shade are you going to use?

No you need the 30vol you're going for 2 levels of lift.

Fresh formula for the ends, i'd personally do the roots and see how they turn out then tone the m+e.

Of course /1 is good for things or they wouldn't have it.

Its grey ash, it is composed of blue and green however its not as greeny as you may think. It can soften any warm tone but it can't neutralise anything.

 

[hairbyjamie]

I agree with cams97! The /1 tones soften the warmth rather than completely neutralising them

 

[hairbyjamie]

What the target shade as you've not specifically mentioned what you want to achieve ?

 

[Pancakes]

Wella innoscense has a 9/81. What about using Olaplex in it to keep the tone for longer and also to treat the lengths beforehand and while processing?

 

[dreamylocks]

What the target shade as you've not specifically mentioned what you want to achieve ?

She basically just wants a blonde tint for now. No bleach as it's was over processed and she is unhappy with the dryness. She said long as it's not to yellow she doesn't mind for now but she does like brighter blondes over all. Hope this helps.

 

[dreamylocks]

Wella innoscense has a 9/81. What about using Olaplex in it to keep the tone for longer and also to treat the lengths beforehand and while processing?

No olaplex in the UK I'm afraid...

 

[cassies97]

No olaplex in the UK I'm afraid...

Yes there is...