Color stripping & Color back to base 8. Please Help. OMG!!

[Lamaur man]

This is the situation.

Clients natural hair color is level 8

She has colored her hair to a very unnatural level 4 or 5 with red undertones.
She now wants her hair back to natural level 8

I am going to color strip using Efassor with 20 vols.

When stripping out the color, what level should I attain. The orange level or very pale yellow level.
Bearing in mind that the level 8 tint I will be using after the color strip is very light, would I NOT need to pre-pigmentate. I don't want any gold or red undertones showing through the level 8 tint.

My current knowledge/instinct tells me not to pre-pigmentate as the desired shade is a very light level 8

I'm a bit wary, as I have only ever colored back to darker bases, not as high as level 8

Thanks guys. xx

 

[scottydolly]

your not gonna need to pre pig it at all imo. pre piggin is for repiggin hair that is going darker. now u are going to be stripping depth out and singe you are going to an 8 there will be alot of residual tone left. i would be stripping it to a brassy peach and then putting on an ashy 8 to neutralise the tone probably bringing it to a caramelly 8. you have to maintain the condition so over stripping really isnt neccesary. Remember this is a colour correction and you have to make your client aware that when performing a colour correction you cant guarantee desired results first time.

 

[Lamaur man]

your not gonna need to pre pig it at all imo. pre piggin is for repiggin hair that is going darker. now u are going to be stripping depth out and singe you are going to an 8 there will be alot of residual tone left. i would be stripping it to a brassy peach and then putting on an ashy 8 to neutralise the tone probably bringing it to a caramelly 8. you have to maintain the condition so over stripping really isnt neccesary. Remember this is a colour correction and you have to make your client aware that when performing a colour correction you cant guarantee desired results first time.

Thanks for advice scottydolly. I won't pre-pig.
I wanted to be sure the hair wouldn't throw off a matt green color afterwards.
Cheers. xx

 

[scottydolly]

you will reall have to gauge it urself, i mean assuming there isnt just alot of residual tone you cud use a natural base but if she doesnt want a warm tone and it is throwing of orange tones before u retint i wud be using ash. x

 

[HairSquared]

If you only take it to orange, you will have a nightmare on your hands....Honestly, I find the absolute worst underlying tone to control is at level 8!!!! The tone you should be working with is yellow-gold, for a level 8 to be true. So if you dont lift to that point, it wont match. The step from 6 to 8, with underlying pigment going from orange to gold also seems to take the longest to get past, so be patient, and make sure you get there.

 

[Lamaur man]

If you only take it to orange, you will have a nightmare on your hands....Honestly, I find the absolute worst underlying tone to control is at level 8!!!! The tone you should be working with is yellow-gold, for a level 8 to be true. So if you dont lift to that point, it wont match. The step from 6 to 8, with underlying pigment going from orange to gold also seems to take the longest to get past, so be patient, and make sure you get there.

Cheers HairSquared
Ace info my friend
I will do my best and post up here how I get on.
I shall also use the 8-1 as ScottyDolly suggested just to neutralise any unwanted gold tones. I'm just praying it won't go green. :cry:

 

[HairSquared]

You shouldnt see any green as your final application will be a level 8/ violet/blue....dont use a green base when you are counteracting gold/yellow. Green counteracts red, dont go too far!

 

[Lamaur man]

You shouldnt see any green as your final application will be a level 8/ violet/blue....dont use a green base when you are counteracting gold/yellow. Green counteracts red, dont go too far!

Sorry, I meant blue/violet because of the ash. But there will be plenty of gold tones so it should be fine.
Thanks again.

 

[HairSquared]

Awesome, git er done:green:

 

[Lamaur man]

Awesome, git er done:green:

I'll do er all right.
I'll drown er in it. :green:

 

[HairSquared]

Oh the irony! I spent 5 hours with one client today, and guess what I did?? Level 3-4, many many boxed dyes, and she wants to be a blonde!!! Of course......so I used color extractor, heat 20 min, 2 bleach cocktails got her up to a level 8 yellow orange......so I mixed an 8 N for root, and 8GN with 20 vol for ends.....came up great, and hair was onyl slightly dried. But damn, I have to start charging more.....

 

[Lamaur man]

Oh the irony! I spent 5 hours with one client today, and guess what I did?? Level 3-4, many many boxed dyes, and she wants to be a blonde!!! Of course......so I used color extractor, heat 20 min, 2 bleach cocktails got her up to a level 8 yellow orange......so I mixed an 8 N for root, and 8GN with 20 vol for ends.....came up great, and hair was onyl slightly dried. But damn, I have to start charging more.....

All that work, I think you should.
You mention color extractor. Is that like the Rusk Elimin8
I'm thinking of trying that. Supposed to be excellent. I'm a bit old skool and is used to Effassor. Trouble is, its basically a bleach bath, so wrecks your hair in the process. No i'm gonna try it out on this client and if it don't work, well then I'll have to give her Effassor anyway.
Your numbering system for your tints. Is that Goldwell Topchic by any chance. Is it very good.

 

[HairSquared]

All that work, I think you should.
You mention color extractor. Is that like the Rusk Elimin8
I'm thinking of trying that. Supposed to be excellent. I'm a bit old skool and is used to Effassor. Trouble is, its basically a bleach bath, so wrecks your hair in the process. No i'm gonna try it out on this client and if it don't work, well then I'll have to give her Effassor anyway.
Your numbering system for your tints. Is that Goldwell Topchic by any chance. Is it very good.

I use 2 different removers, both of which are zero damage.... color vanish and Pravana extractor. They are nothing like bleach as they dont dissolve color molecules...they shrink them to a size that are removed with clarifying. I always use this as step one of a correction, so that the most dark color is removed without bleach. I break out the bleach when I hit orange.
Right now, I have redken, but am eagerly awaiting wella, I was soooo impressed with their book! Due to the size of our color account I also scored a ton of free retail and backbar, on top of getting a strait across trade for my old line.:green:

 

[Lamaur man]

Hi guys.

I have completed my clients hair using Rusk Elimin8 instead of Effassor.
I had to use this product three times to strip her color, but I am extremeley pleased with the results.

After the color correction I tinted using the 8-1 ash. It did tone down some of the remaining warmth in her hair. However, it did go slightly darker than expected, due to the posrosity, but I said it will gradually fade over a few weeks.

Overall my client is pleased and I would like to thank all you geeks out there for your advice.

Cheers guys.
xxxx