Colour correction question: dip dye to brown?

[JoellieH]

Hey everyone, I'm new here but I'm sick of struggling to find people to ask advice when I'm doing clients hair!

Basically, a couple of weeks agoI did a dip dye on a clients hair. Her hair (as I had done before) had quite a bit of build up from brown and red/brown tint. I advised her that it might take a couple of bleaches and lots of conditioner to get it to an ombré effect as opposed to just orange! Anyway, she agreed and the picture I showed her of the ombré effect was accepted (quite golden ends as opposed to white blonde). I did the first lot, brown on top, bleach ends and as I predicted it didn't pull itself through the levels of build up that well and I didn't want to over do it. I told her to deep condition it every day and I'd be back in a week to make it lighter. It wasn't horrific looking it looked just like your typical ombré dip dye and she was fine. I came to do it again about 4 days ago to bleach it further and tone out the brassy colour so we got the more Ashier tone she wanted and it just didnt happen at all! The bleach wouldn't lift much as I didn't want to ruin her ends. I toned it but i didn't want to make it green!

So in all, she said actually I don't like it can i just put the brown on. Today I put the brown on but where her hair was porus, it didn't take the brown as dark as the roots and mid lengths. I only mobile so resources are limited!

My question is, should I go back in a few days to re apply the brown? Should I add something else to it?

I'm not all that experienced in colour correction and I usually stick to basics (ash if its brassy and gold if its green!) but Im just unsure of how it's going to work reapplying it again? Don't want to have to get her to wait another few days for something else!

Sorry it's long!

 

[kaye74]

Hey everyone, I'm new here but I'm sick of struggling to find people to ask advice when I'm doing clients hair!

Basically, a couple of weeks agoI did a dip dye on a clients hair. Her hair (as I had done before) had quite a bit of build up from brown and red/brown tint. I advised her that it might take a couple of bleaches and lots of conditioner to get it to an ombré effect as opposed to just orange! Anyway, she agreed and the picture I showed her of the ombré effect was accepted (quite golden ends as opposed to white blonde). I did the first lot, brown on top, bleach ends and as I predicted it didn't pull itself through the levels of build up that well and I didn't want to over do it. I told her to deep condition it every day and I'd be back in a week to make it lighter. It wasn't horrific looking it looked just like your typical ombré dip dye and she was fine. I came to do it again about 4 days ago to bleach it further and tone out the brassy colour so we got the more Ashier tone she wanted and it just didnt happen at all! The bleach wouldn't lift much as I didn't want to ruin her ends. I toned it but i didn't want to make it green!

So in all, she said actually I don't like it can i just put the brown on. Today I put the brown on but where her hair was porus, it didn't take the brown as dark as the roots and mid lengths. I only mobile so resources are limited!

My question is, should I go back in a few days to re apply the brown? Should I add something else to it?

I'm not all that experienced in colour correction and I usually stick to basics (ash if its brassy and gold if its green!) but Im just unsure of how it's going to work reapplying it again? Don't want to have to get her to wait another few days for something else!

Sorry it's long!

My suggestion is , you should put your self on a colour course as soon as hun ! your working with chemicals and clients hair, plus its your reputation .What colour house are you working with? My suggestion isnt meant to offend im just looking out for you ;-) xx

 

[TaraB]

Hey everyone, I'm new here but I'm sick of struggling to find people to ask advice when I'm doing clients hair!

Basically, a couple of weeks agoI did a dip dye on a clients hair. Her hair (as I had done before) had quite a bit of build up from brown and red/brown tint. I advised her that it might take a couple of bleaches and lots of conditioner to get it to an ombré effect as opposed to just orange! Anyway, she agreed and the picture I showed her of the ombré effect was accepted (quite golden ends as opposed to white blonde). I did the first lot, brown on top, bleach ends and as I predicted it didn't pull itself through the levels of build up that well and I didn't want to over do it. I told her to deep condition it every day and I'd be back in a week to make it lighter. It wasn't horrific looking it looked just like your typical ombré dip dye and she was fine. I came to do it again about 4 days ago to bleach it further and tone out the brassy colour so we got the more Ashier tone she wanted and it just didnt happen at all! The bleach wouldn't lift much as I didn't want to ruin her ends. I toned it but i didn't want to make it green!

So in all, she said actually I don't like it can i just put the brown on. Today I put the brown on but where her hair was porus, it didn't take the brown as dark as the roots and mid lengths. I only mobile so resources are limited!

My question is, should I go back in a few days to re apply the brown? Should I add something else to it?

I'm not all that experienced in colour correction and I usually stick to basics (ash if its brassy and gold if its green!) but Im just unsure of how it's going to work reapplying it again? Don't want to have to get her to wait another few days for something else!

Sorry it's long!

Hey hun, It sounds as though your client has an awful lot of product build up on her hair. What condition is the hair in?? If the hair is ok you could bleach bath the hair to remove the colour build up from previous processes, however you would then need a deep condition treatment to help protect the hair from becoming dry and possibly brittle.
This may help with reaching the appropriate colour choice, but when using all chemicals you need to be careful and not too much all at once! Hope that helps and hope this comes through ok, I'm a newbie forum member and learning about posting at the moment!! xxx

 

[Rachul123]

Hey
Strand test, always.
If you're unsure of the outcome, or just to reassure yourself and the client what colour you'll achieve x

 

[vixxm]

Hiya.. if in doubt I always do a test cut so I can see the levels of lift and elasticity of the hair after I have applied the colour ,these type of jobs often turn out to be a nightmare .. at least with a test cut you can show them and they can make the decision themselves once they see the levels of lift and condition of the test cut , maybe now test cut the hair.. reapply some brown, then check elasticity and colour before going ahead with the procedure x

 

[cdawson24]

I had this same problem happen to me with my ends. Had to go a shade darker than the rest of my hair.. base 5 roots and mid lengths and base 4 on the ends. The colour glowed too much and just slipped out otherwise x

 

[TaraB]

As you are mobile if the client is impatient and doesn't want the strand test, make sure that you get them to sign a disclaimer to say they opted out, just to help cover yourself!

 

[JoellieH]

Hey! Her hair isn't too bad after the last application. Luckily she is a friend so the situation isn't as reputation based as it could be. I usually avoid colouring people's hair if I can and stick to cuts with people I don't know personally.

She is going on holiday on Friday so Thursday is our last hope of getting the colour to match before then. My plan was just to put the brown with 6%on the ends and at the last min comb through to even it out. It's currently a shade lighter than the rest of the hair. I'm so limited I don't think we have time for a strand test and I don't think bleach again is a good option at all since she just wants the colour evened out now. Colour causes me so much stress! It only ever seems to be the going between bleach and colour that gives me jip and vice versa.

I'm using Rusk at the moment. The roots and mid lengths are a 6.8ch and the ends are a level lighter. It's not ridiculously obvious but enough that we know we need to try and get it that shade darker.

I've been really aware of hair condition the entire time I've been doing it checking the strands to make sure they aren't stretching etc just want to fix it and avoid it even more! Lol I only do hair as a spare time thing for friends/family as I chose a different career.

If guess the only real question that I can ask given I don't know if I can arrange a strand test before then is, has anyone had luck when putting a tint on bleach that hasn't quite taken it as deep as it needed to be, reapplied and its covered this time?

 

[MissMuggle]

Hey! Her hair isn't too bad after the last application. Luckily she is a friend so the situation isn't as reputation based as it could be. I usually avoid colouring people's hair if I can and stick to cuts with people I don't know personally.

She is going on holiday on Friday so Thursday is our last hope of getting the colour to match before then. My plan was just to put the brown with 6%on the ends and at the last min comb through to even it out. It's currently a shade lighter than the rest of the hair. I'm so limited I don't think we have time for a strand test and I don't think bleach again is a good option at all since she just wants the colour evened out now. Colour causes me so much stress! It only ever seems to be the going between bleach and colour that gives me jip and vice versa.

I'm using Rusk at the moment. The roots and mid lengths are a 6.8ch and the ends are a level lighter. It's not ridiculously obvious but enough that we know we need to try and get it that shade darker.

I've been really aware of hair condition the entire time I've been doing it checking the strands to make sure they aren't stretching etc just want to fix it and avoid it even more! Lol I only do hair as a spare time thing for friends/family as I chose a different career.

If guess the only real question that I can ask given I don't know if I can arrange a strand test before then is, has anyone had luck when putting a tint on bleach that hasn't quite taken it as deep as it needed to be, reapplied and its covered this time?

If her hair is porous you might be better using a quasi such as colour touch as it will grip better. hth x

 

[JoellieH]

Even though its not as permanent?

I was thinking of getting a 3/0 colour fresh as a back up incase it doesn't take again, but I think after a few days of conditioning it might be in a better state to take it, or now that it got a base to it, the 2nd application will add to it? I usually use the 3/0 for 5 or 6 base jobs on myself and its usually alright. Not used it for this purpose but I'm just aware that she is a friend and is going away for a week in the UK and won't be able to have it sorted till then!

 

[NiCshairstudio]

Ive only skimmed through advise and responses here hun but first question, why have you used 6% ehen darkening?? Always 3% or a quasi/demi.

In my experience quasi/demi colours are much better when darkening especially on bleached hair, add a spot of red depending on how warm you are going, what colour are her roots? Perminant wont hold any better than quasi colours on pre lifted hair and dont cover as good in my opinion so quasi/demi always and its nicer to the hair, less damage, longer colour result.

What colour is she about right now? Roots and ends?

I agree with the colour course suggestion even if to remind you of the basics and a few hints and tips, your colour house will prob do them for free for you, check with your warehouse x



Sent from my GT-N7000 using SalonGeek

 

[JoellieH]

Well my training when I did it about 7 years ago taught that 6% to lift 1 level or to darken/tone. I used a 6.8 ch rusk chocolate brown which has red undertones. Roots are a base 5/6 as this is what that particular colour looks like. Ends are currently a 7ish. Do you think I should use maybe 3% with the colour? The brand suggests that if you reduce the peroxide to 1.9%(I think) then you can use it as a Demi.

I've always done 6% for tone or darker on my hair and everyone else and this is the first time I've had a problem. I'm looking for a course ATM regarding colour correction but they all say you have to have level 3 which I only have level 2!

I'm thinking il put the colour on the ends with a lower peroxide and then I think good buy a semi to give her while she is away in case she needs to refresh the ends.

 

[NiCshairstudio]

3% is to darken, stay the same or lift 1/2 to 1 shade, 6% is 1-2 shades lift, 9% is 2-3 shades lift and 12% is 3- 4 + as you use this with hihlifts tints with up to 7 shades lift depending on colour house, 1.5% or 2.4% or basically anythig below 3% is deposit only hun. I trained 12 years ago and as far as im aware this has never changed, always read your manufacturers guides too (just checked mine to make sure im not lying to you lol)

I would personally use it as a demi if you can as you only need to deposit, no lifting is needed at all xx

Sent from my GT-N7000 using SalonGeek

 

[JoellieH]

That's fine lol I don't think your lying I'm just a bit baffled that at college I was never taught to use anything below 6% unless it was to do a quasi which has always been marketed to me (at college) as a semi permanent! Eek! I have used 3% on my own hair before because I didn't want to put a higher peroxide on to keep it in better condition. But I think il use 3% with the 6.8ch then and still have my 3/0 semi as back up for her to take away.

I feel like emailing my college and complaining lol it's not a massive deal, it's never caused me problems before but now I feel stupid!

 

[faerififi]

That's fine lol I don't think your lying I'm just a bit baffled that at college I was never taught to use anything below 6% unless it was to do a quasi which has always been marketed to me (at college) as a semi permanent! Eek! I have used 3% on my own hair before because I didn't want to put a higher peroxide on to keep it in better condition. But I think il use 3% with the 6.8ch then and still have my 3/0 semi as back up for her to take away.

I feel like emailing my college and complaining lol it's not a massive deal, it's never caused me problems before but now I feel stupid!

It depends on the colour brand to be honest, the main thing is that you follow manufacturers instructions, they will tell you which peroxide strength to use to darken. I use 3% because I use affinage, but i know wella doesnt recommend using anything below 6% with their permanent range.
You should go on a colour top up course, or perhaps change range to a brand that offers extra training then you will start to understand what to do in these situations a bit better and its less baffling.

 

[spikeyfaerie]

As you are mobile if the client is impatient and doesn't want the strand test, make sure that you get them to sign a disclaimer to say they opted out, just to help cover yourself!

Disclaimers are worthless.

 

[NiCshairstudio]

That's fine lol I don't think your lying I'm just a bit baffled that at college I was never taught to use anything below 6% unless it was to do a quasi which has always been marketed to me (at college) as a semi permanent! Eek! I have used 3% on my own hair before because I didn't want to put a higher peroxide on to keep it in better condition. But I think il use 3% with the 6.8ch then and still have my 3/0 semi as back up for her to take away.

I feel like emailing my college and complaining lol it's not a massive deal, it's never caused me problems before but now I feel stupid!

Like has been said it depends on your colour house, but all the houses I have worked with over the years its been how I described above. Maybe they're not wording it correctly that everyone checks as a lot of colour houses are now re formulating to use lower developers to achieve the same look as better for the hair.

You will always be taught quasi and Demi don't last as long ... In theory however in practice they last longer depending on the hair condition too. It like on blondes nothing stays that long really as there's not much if anything for the colour molecules to hold onto. But I find using a quasi/Demi makes the colours last longer and cover much much much better than using the per permanent range. It's rare I darken with permanent colours to be honest xx

 

[JoellieH]

Maybe that's why we were taught that, we used wella koleston at college! I am switching to use Rusk as when I use it on my hair it's really shiny! I think I'm gonna book their course though as it seems like it'l be worth while!

Thanks for the advice guys! I'm gonna go with the Demi option and put that on the ends I think!

 

[Eviestyle]

I would use a demi-permanent on porous hair. When goong darker from lightened hair, you always need to fill first. A filler is a color that you put on before you put the actual color. It is usually a warm color a few shades lighter than your end result. So you ate basically performing 2 color services. Sometimes you van just fill with the same color as your end result. Just do it twice.

 

[JoellieH]

Thanks! Well essentially I have already filled it with the colour once so hopefully if I use a Demi on Thursday it'l (fingers crossed) be ok!