Colour remover/what to put on after?

[dawndawniem]

Hi
I have to admit to being a bit of a passive lurker on here ,but I have been able to sort out loads of colouring probs in the past just by searching on here. Could I just run this one by you. Am attempting using a colour remover for the first time this week.Will probably be Affinage eraser. Client is a natural base of 6 or 7 with a lot of natural warmth which she hates.Has been having full head tint of 3.0,(bit faded now) but has 2 inch regrowth. She wants to go back to the depth of her natural shade. So I am thinking after the Eraser should I put on a 7.1. Am really not too confident about this and have only agreed to do it as she is a friends daughter and was about to buy colour b4 from a chemist.She hates warth and calls anything vaguely warm ginger.What do you think?

 

[Charlmb21]

You can answer your own question if you go back to colour basics, green counteracts red tones etc...

Also personally, I would just go with fine bleach foils after stripping. Semi toners can help after to help with unwanted warmth?

Xx

 

[AcidPerm]

With a colour remover such as affinage you need to use a quasi or permanent colour afterwards that's around 2 levels lighter than the target shade.

So if the target is a level 7 you will need to apply a tint that's a level 9.
Also, the actual tint mix will depend on what colour the hair is after removing the artificial colour.

Also, be aware that you may need to re-apply the Eraser if it hasn't removed enough of the old tint first time around.

 

[dawndawniem]

Thanks for the replies.Yes had thought about fine foils but she wants full head colour.Have told her I can't guarantee the colour result and she says she understands.She just wants to be a lighter brown.Am not overly confidant as this is a process I haven't done before.tempted to do a bleach bath instead.Think i am worried becsuseIcant imagine what colour I will be left with after the colour remover.I realise that the colour I use after will come up darker but am worried about using level nine if i get a very coppery base. Which is why i was thinking level seven. Realistically what wpuld you use to get her to a lighter brown.
Thanks in advance xx

 

[AcidPerm]

If you put a 7 on it afterwards, it will come out a 5/6 and after all that work, the end result may not look that much different to the client's eyes.

Also, don't be tempted not to put another peroxide based tint on afterwards as otherwise, the remaining molecules will re-oxidise and go back dark. A normal semi won't cut it.

Can you try it out on a willing guinea pig first so that you can see the results for yourself, if you're still worried?

Colour removers are great as they work in a totally different way to bleach and don't damage the hair the way bleach does.

In simple terms, colour removers shatter the artificial colour molecules into smaller particles and the water rinses them away. If there is a lot of build up of colour, you will need to apply the remover more than once as it won't be able to penetrate all the colour molecules in one go.

I would only make the decision what tint mix to apply once I've removed most of the colour. You need to see how much warmth is left in the hair. A remover doesn't lighten the hair, so unless the client has previously bleached her hair, it's probably going to be quite warm from what you've said.

You could use a level 8 plus appropriate tone (remember it will be a 6/7 end result) if you feel the 9 is too light.

 

[dawndawniem]

Hi
Thanks so much for your reply.Am feeling much happier about it now.Really only doing this because I was so worried about her trying to sort it herself.Think I will go with the level 8 as you suggested .Just want to do my best for her.Glad I am doing it tomorrow as it's all I can think about at the moment LOL:wink2: