Formulating with the spectrum

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vividamnesia

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Our spectrum is: ROYGBIV = red,orange,yellow,green,blue,indigo,violet in proper order like looking @ a rainbow. It goes in tone from warmest to coolest.

If ever you get stuck using a color line without numerical value or one of those weird lines that assign the colors their own unique names, you can better gauge the actual tones using the spectrum layout. Purple not in the spectrum is formulated with equal parts red+blue, & would be in between blue & indigo but our spectrum has a much darker version known as indigo. Indigo is comprised of a ratio having more blue:less red. In actuality, it is usually a ratio of magenta (red+blue+ level of light) @45% + 55% cyan(green+blue+level of light).

Indigo has more blue than red=45%Red family:55%blue family making it slightly flatter/darker/cooler than purple. Violet has yet more blue in the ratio=40%red family+60%blue family.

These cooler indigo/violet/blue violet/violet blues are great for formulating colors for clients with olive or red/pink skin tones whom request mahoganies or warm dark brunette shades that bring out the red tones or clash with olive tones in the skin.
 

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I've not seen a colour wheel like that one used in hairdressing before with Red, Blue, Green rather than Red, Blue, Yellow as the primary points of the star.

That's interesting. Is it used by one of the colour houses you mostly use?

This is the one I tend to refer to.

image.jpg
 
It's mainly to en corporate magenta & cyan/teal. I had the hardest time in 2006 trying to get a magenta for a photoshoot model which took many experimental swatches! All the magenta's back then were always too red. I ended up using Farouks CHI infra RR + 10v + alot of conditioner to get the color below & had no idea it needed red + violet blue to get it more true.......heres what I got with the hi-lift mixture.....
 

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