From brown to red

Balayage

Member
Client used a market brand dye (syos) on already red colored hair. She used 5.8 (light brown chocolate) on red hair (i cant know what number the previous hairdresser used but I think it was a red on level 4 or 5) and she got a light brown with some red spots. After 5 months of no dye hair she wants me to change the color. Her natural is about 4 and the rest is a faded 5.8.
Can I use 5.66 upon this to make an even red color without bleach? Is this going to work? Any ideas?
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Client used a market brand dye (syos) on already red colored hair. She used 5.8 (light brown chocolate) on red hair (i cant know what number the previous hairdresser used but I think it was a red on level 4 or 5) and she got a light brown with some red spots. After 5 months of no dye hair she wants me to change the color. Her natural is about 4 and the rest is a faded 5.8.
Can I use 5.66 upon this to make an even red color without bleach? Is this going to work? Any ideas?
What brand? In most brands 5.66 is purple not red
 

Balayage

Member
What brand? In most brands 5.66 is purple not red
Majirel
She wants a brownish red. A very discreet red. In the same level like the previous dye she used (5.8) so I don't have to lift with bleach. So I don't know yet what number I am going to use. 5.66 or 5.56 or something like this.
Can you suggest me something?
 

cassies97

Well-Known Member
If you put a 5 over a 5 you'll end up with a 4.
 

Haircutz

Super Moderator
Staff member
What about the 5 months of virgin root regrowth?

I’d remove the old colour before re-colouring otherwise, as @cassies97 says, you’ll end up actually making it darker.
Every time you re-colour over old colour, you’re adding thousands of extra colour molecules to what is already there. It’s called colour saturation.
 

Balayage

Member
What about the 5 months of virgin root regrowth?

I’d remove the old colour before re-colouring otherwise, as @cassies97 says, you’ll end up actually making it darker.
Every time you re-colour over old colour, you’re adding thousands of extra colour molecules to what is already there. It’s called colour saturation.
This is the color she has atm.
She wants a brownish red (mahogany i think) without bleach.
What if I dye her with 5.56 on this hair?IMG_20190912_173906.jpeg
 

Balayage

Member
She said I can do whatever I want on her hair so I dont mind if I use level 5 and get a level 4.
 

cassies97

Well-Known Member
She said I can do whatever I want on her hair so I dont mind if I use level 5 and get a level 4.
It wouldn't be a nice 4 it'd be very dull and neither here nor there tone wise.

Regardless, that picture looks more like a warm 6 than a 5 so you should be fine putting a 5 over that. Are you planning to use majirel?
 

Balayage

Member
It wouldn't be a nice 4 it'd be very dull and neither here nor there tone wise.

Regardless, that picture looks more like a warm 6 than a 5 so you should be fine putting a 5 over that. Are you planning to use majirel?
Thanks a lot for the response.
The picture is taken outside on light, with flash and i wish i could upload the whole head but image size is big i guess.
Well I am a lot into Loreal in general but I can use whatever you can suggest me. She want a brownish red, very discreet red so I think she describe a mahogany.
I just don't want KP cause I am afraid at warm colors. I think KP makes everything cool and I really love 10.6 and 10.16 for my cool platinum but I dont want to use it for warm colors.
What do you suggest me?
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot for the response.
The picture is taken outside on light, with flash and i wish i could upload the whole head but image size is big i guess.
Well I am a lot into Loreal in general but I can use whatever you can suggest me. She want a brownish red, very discreet red so I think she describe a mahogany.
I just don't want KP cause I am afraid at warm colors. I think KP makes everything cool and I really love 10.6 and 10.16 for my cool platinum but I dont want to use it for warm colors.
What do you suggest me?
I've used wella for years, since I started hairdressing and never had issues with achieving warmth. If she wants a nice rich colour with out much red I'd look at kp 6/74 colour touch plus 55/05 kp or ct 5/75 or 5/5.
 

Balayage

Member
I've used wella for years, since I started hairdressing and never had issues with achieving warmth. If she wants a nice rich colour with out much red I'd look at kp 6/74 colour touch plus 55/05 kp or ct 5/75 or 5/5.
So you suggest to use KP 6/74 alone or mix it with something else?

PS: 6:74 looks great. Will work on the already colored hair? I posted pic above.
 

cassies97

Well-Known Member
So you suggest to use KP 6/74 alone or mix it with something else?

PS: 6:74 looks great. Will work on the already colored hair? I posted pic above.
6/74 will look lovely over that.
 

Balayage

Member
6/74 will look lovely over that.
Thanks a lot.
I am going to dye hair with that.
But how? I mean remember the 5 months natural regrowth.
I start on roots and after 30 mins I just dye the mid/ends? Or?
 

Balayage

Member
Also. With 20 or 30 vol?
 

cassies97

Well-Known Member
Thanks a lot.
I am going to dye hair with that.
But how? I mean remember the 5 months natural regrowth.
I start on roots and after 30 mins I just dye the mid/ends? Or?
If her natural depth is a 4 then you'd need 30vol to gain 2 levels of lift.

So yes apply to roots first, then apply to mids and ends using either 20vol or pastel. Make sure you leave on for the full 60 minutes to ensure every last bit of pigment is deposited otherwise it'll just look raw and unfinished. Good luck.
 

cassies97

Well-Known Member
Also if shes used box dye previously I'd be doing an incompatibility test before any of this to determine the presence of metallic salts.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
I would use a gentle bleach bath first. To shift tone and any build up of colour on the ends. You'll need to use a slightly low devoloper on the very root (Hair near the scalp) or add base to prevent root glow compared to rest of the hair. Do a strand test if possible. And as @cassies97 suggested do an incompatibility test.
 

Balayage

Member
Also if shes used box dye previously I'd be doing an incompatibility test before any of this to determine the presence of metallic salts.
What is that test lol?
 

Balayage

Member
I would use a gentle bleach bath first. To shift tone and any build up of colour on the ends. You'll need to use a slightly low devoloper on the very root (Hair near the scalp) or add base to prevent root glow compared to rest of the hair. Do a strand test if possible. And as @cassies97 suggested do an incompatibility test.
Bleach bath for sure.
I was thinking about that.
But I don't know that test. :/
 

Balayage

Member
Guys.
I am very happy and I am here to announce you that today we began the last year before I get the diploma. By June I will have my diploma. I wish I learn many new things about color this year.
 
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