Full head bleach highlights causing anxiety!

ronray

Well-Known Member
#21
That's perfect, thank you! I'll go for the 10/38, as I'm sure that would be ok.

So sorry, one last question, I promise! The lady in the attached photo wants to go 8/96... will it go purple through the top? Sorry, minor panic as she's in this afternoon!
Do you plan to bleach all the darker hair up first? If so just bleach around the already light bits and then tone all together? Or are you using the 8/96 to lift the darker hair?
 

#22
I'm just using tint, no bleach. The picture isn't the best but I'd say the darker hair was a base 7-8, so was planning on using 8/96 + 6%, but I was just worried about how the highlighted hair would go. Should I add 8/0 at the back, and then add 9/0 through the top to keep it a little lighter but to stop the violet tones attaching so much? If that makes sense!
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#23
I'm just using tint, no bleach. The picture isn't the best but I'd say the darker hair was a base 7-8, so was planning on using 8/96 + 6%, but I was just worried about how the highlighted hair would go. Should I add 8/0 at the back, and then add 9/0 through the top to keep it a little lighter but to stop the violet tones attaching so much? If that makes sense!
To be honest, 8/96 with 6% isn't going to do a great deal. 8/96 isn't really that strong. It will be a lovely colour on the more yellow and whiter bits, but it will be very warm and still quite dark on the darker hair in comparison to the top.
 

#24
So you think I'm safe to just go for it? Would you do anything different? It occurred to me that it might go purple. I've actually tested some on my own hair (7/73 on the roots but I have a balayage so plenty of gold and copper tones through the ends!), and it looked ok, but that doesn't stop me worrying lol (roll on February when I can do the colour course!).
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#25
So you think I'm safe to just go for it? Would you do anything different? It occurred to me that it might go purple. I've actually tested some on my own hair (7/73 on the roots but I have a balayage so plenty of gold and copper tones through the ends!), and it looked ok, but that doesn't stop me worrying lol (roll on February when I can do the colour course!).
What do you want to achieve?
 

#26
So, I went for it! The back was actually a bit darker than I thought - definitely a 7, not quite a 6, and she wanted to lighten the back especially. So, I used 8/96 and 9/0 with 9% on the dark roots/back, and then used the same with 6% on the highlighted area, and what happened was the attached photo. It was more coppery on the dark areas than I expected, but the highlighted areas were really lovely! On the plus side my client absolutely loved it, and gave me the biggest hug! I'm still ultra critical though lol. If I want to achieve the 8/96, would I need to start adding blue/violet mix tones? Or bleach to a 9, then tone with the 8/96? But then I imagine I'll need mix tones to counteract the yellow tones.

I know I said I had one last question, but this is starting to help me get my head around things. Thank you for all your help so far :)
 

Attachments

ronray

Well-Known Member
#27
So, I went for it! The back was actually a bit darker than I thought - definitely a 7, not quite a 6, and she wanted to lighten the back especially. So, I used 8/96 and 9/0 with 9% on the dark roots/back, and then used the same with 6% on the highlighted area, and what happened was the attached photo. It was more coppery on the dark areas than I expected, but the highlighted areas were really lovely! On the plus side my client absolutely loved it, and gave me the biggest hug! I'm still ultra critical though lol. If I want to achieve the 8/96, would I need to start adding blue/violet mix tones? Or bleach to a 9, then tone with the 8/96? But then I imagine I'll need mix tones to counteract the yellow tones.

I know I said I had one last question, but this is starting to help me get my head around things. Thank you for all your help so far :)
For you to achieve the 8/96 look. You would have to pre lighten to a clean level 9 then apply the 8/96 as a toner. No amount of added violet or pearl with give you this look as the mix tones are so dense. It's will work to neutralise the warmer tones, but won't create 8/96 as it it on the swatch. Remember the swatches are based on white hair, so you will only ever achieve the colour on the swatch if you applied that colour to white hair or a clean level 10.
 

#28
I thought as much. So I guess I either need to start looking at scalp bleaches or "safer" colours, if someone wants a full head tint but with 2+ shades of lift and change of tone? Even cooler tones to neutralise? I use a lot of /7s, /17s, /07s etc, which never seem to go too warm - they seem to be favourites with my clients and are often fairly true. The cendres are brand new to me, and this one didn't do what I expected as far as neutralising orange/yellow.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#29
I thought as much. So I guess I either need to start looking at scalp bleaches or "safer" colours, if someone wants a full head tint but with 2+ shades of lift and change of tone? Even cooler tones to neutralise? I use a lot of /7s, /17s, /07s etc, which never seem to go too warm - they seem to be favourites with my clients and are often fairly true. The cendres are brand new to me, and this one didn't do what I expected as far as neutralising orange/yellow.
8/96 is cendre violet, which is actually a more silver violet, violet. So there's no chance of it counteracting any orange. For a cooler result I would have used 30g 8/1 + 1.5g /81 with 9% no base needed as she's dark not white /grey.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#30
8/96 is cendre violet, which is actually a more silver violet, violet. So there's no chance of it counteracting any orange. For a cooler result I would have used 30g 8/1 + 1.5g /81 with 9% no base needed as she's dark not white /grey.
To be fair I have always found the /07's and the /7's to be very true to swatch! But that is a controlled warmth anway. Are you familiar with the rule of 11? This is an old wella trick I always found helpful and it's never failed me.
 

#31
Pretty much anything with a 7 in it has always worked beautifully, except on one occasion where a 12/17 didn't lift - this client had had the same colour 8 weeks earlier and it had lifted perfectly - I'm still puzzled now as to why it didn't work the second time!

What's the rule of 11? I've never heard of it.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#32
If you have all your mix tones and then all the bases you essentially have all you need :) just follow the rule of 11and you can't go far wrong :)
Rule of 11 =
11- Base shade =
Example 1; Making 5G or in wella 5/3
11 - Base 5 = 6 (6cm) ÷2=3 grams of mix tone
So it would equate to 30grams of 5/0 or 55/0 (depending on coverage need) + 3grams of 0/33.
Example 2; making 8/81.
11 - base 8 = 3(cm) ÷2 =1.5grams of mix tone.
So it would be 30grams of 8/0 + 1.5g 0/81 mix tone.
The rule of 11 is worked out on 30grams of base colour :)
 

#33
That's really helpful, thank you so much! I had a minor baby brain moment when you said to divide by two, but I guess that's because 1cm would equal half a gram.
Presumably you could still only mix certain colours? Wella don't do a 0/81 mix tone, but I guess I'd then use the 0/88 and the 0/11? Obviously a little more of the 0/88 than the 0/11. How would you mix the 7 and 9 tones? And, just to be confusing, when might you use the 0/28 and the 0/30? 0/30 looks pretty new - I only remember the 0/33 on my old chart. Pretty sure there were only 6 or so mix tones, where there are now 9 plus the 0/00 (0/00 is also throwing me a little!).

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I really am learning a lot - it's really helping.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#34
That's really helpful, thank you so much! I had a minor baby brain moment when you said to divide by two, but I guess that's because 1cm would equal half a gram.
Presumably you could still only mix certain colours? Wella don't do a 0/81 mix tone, but I guess I'd then use the 0/88 and the 0/11? Obviously a little more of the 0/88 than the 0/11. How would you mix the 7 and 9 tones? And, just to be confusing, when might you use the 0/28 and the 0/30? 0/30 looks pretty new - I only remember the 0/33 on my old chart. Pretty sure there were only 6 or so mix tones, where there are now 9 plus the 0/00 (0/00 is also throwing me a little!).

Sorry to ask so many questions, but I really am learning a lot - it's really helping.
Yes you're right with the 1 cm =0.5 gram.
0/81 must be discontinued now :/ you coukd always use 8/1 with 0/88 unless you're covering grey obviously. 0/28 is perfect for colour correction! /2 in wella is the green that needs to be used to counteract red tones. /1 is well as ash, but its a very lazy tone, so it will only subdue red / warmer tones and not neutralise them. So 0/28 is ideal to neutralise red- orange. 0/30 is a new one on me, I'm assuming its like /3, because the old one was 0/33 and that was intense gold, where as 0/30 would be a more natural gold tone.
0/00 is clear, so generally you can use this as a blonde booster, so if you were using 10/0 and needed extra lift you add 0/00 to your formula which gives an extra half a level of lift. Or you can use it to subdue /soften colours. So if you were to apply 66/44 but you didn't want it quite so intense you can add 0/00 without affecting the depth (to a certain degree)
0/00 can also be used in some cases to remove excess tone or even direct dies.
The /9 and /7 are more complex.
For /9 I believe its a mixture of 0/11 + 0/66 but what ratios I'm not sure. Obviously the amount will still differ per base colour (still using the rule of 11)
For /7 it's even more complicated, again I can't remember the ratios but 0/44 + 0/65 springs to mind. Again the quantity will differ per base colour (still using the rule of 11) I hope this helps and I haven't confused you more!
 

#35
That's amazing, thank you! 0/30 is gold, apparently, and 0/33 is intense gold.

I remember in the first salon I worked in, they once diluted mix tone with warm water and poured it straight on the hair as part of a colour correction. Is that still a thing? They mainly used mix tones to intensify colours though - mostly reds. Re using 0/28 for colour correction, would you just add that to a chosen shade to counteract the red? I.e. someone with a very warm base 5 wants to go to a 5/1, for example, you'd add the 0/28 mix tone to 5/1 as one step?
0/00 to remove excess tone - how would you use that? I feel it's one I should learn more about.

I'm totally going off on a tangent from the original thread lol, but I'm learning a lot :)
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#36
That's amazing, thank you! 0/30 is gold, apparently, and 0/33 is intense gold.

I remember in the first salon I worked in, they once diluted mix tone with warm water and poured it straight on the hair as part of a colour correction. Is that still a thing? They mainly used mix tones to intensify colours though - mostly reds. Re using 0/28 for colour correction, would you just add that to a chosen shade to counteract the red? I.e. someone with a very warm base 5 wants to go to a 5/1, for example, you'd add the 0/28 mix tone to 5/1 as one step?
0/00 to remove excess tone - how would you use that? I feel it's one I should learn more about.

I'm totally going off on a tangent from the original thread lol, but I'm learning a lot :)
Diluting mix tone with warm water I believe is an old way of pre pigment, but I'm not sure if that's recommended now :/ I've never done it. I've always used perfecton or colour touch to pre pig.
Yes if say you were lifting a clients hair from the famous black box dye and you managed to lift it to a raw 6 then you'd use 30g 5/1 + 3g 0/28 + pastel this will neutralise the red orange and give you a true 5/1 result.
As for the 0/00 it can be used to remove excess tone with 6%/20vol the same as if you were removing direct die, or even as a base breaker if the client likes a warmer result.
To remove excess tone I mean if you usually coloured someone's hair with 5/0. But they decided to try 6/77 rather than bleaching you could use 0/00 and 12% on the coloured hair to remove the excess tone and create 0.5-1 levrl of lift so that you can apply 6/77 all over. But to be honest if you needed to do this i usually use blondor and water or 1.9%, it is usually instant and causes less damage, and on the plus side its more cost effective.
 

ronray

Well-Known Member
#37
Another trick of the brand is 10/0 with 12% will remove banding and is also the only tint in the range that is able to lift through tint.
 

mcintyre85

New Member
#38
I think it sounds like you really need to go on a training course. Not so much for the technical stuff, but for your confidence! I remember what it was like being completely new to colouring and all that anxiety over it, and it all went away as soon as I started paying my own money to be taught new things, after I’d had my initial training (which is really just basic). We should never stop learning as hairdressers and we can’t be expected to ‘just know’ how to do things that are new to us, we need to be taught by people who already know. Courses are expensive, but continuing your education is so important when you’re out there on your own without other hairdressers around you. Good luck!
 
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