Grey coverage Fudge Headpaint help

SalonGeek

Help Support SalonGeek:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jennielou

Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2014
Messages
5
Reaction score
0
Location
New Zealand
Hi there, I am new to salon geek. I need some advice with fudge head paint colour. I am have been using Schwarzkopf Professional but I am setting up a home salon and needed a range that was more affordable so I am changing over to Fudge Headpaint.

I would like to ask if anyone can tell me the general rules with grey coverage with Fudge. I did a test patch on my mum who is about 60% grey with plenty of natural reflect and 6% but it was a bit translucent. I usually would use 9% on her in Schwarzkopf Igora Royal. Should I go up to 9% in Fudge as well?

Any other tips on Fudge Headpaint would be greatly appreciated too :)
 
Hi there, I am new to salon geek. I need some advice with fudge head paint colour. I am have been using Schwarzkopf Professional but I am setting up a home salon and needed a range that was more affordable so I am changing over to Fudge Headpaint.

I would like to ask if anyone can tell me the general rules with grey coverage with Fudge. I did a test patch on my mum who is about 60% grey with plenty of natural reflect and 6% but it was a bit translucent. I usually would use 9% on her in Schwarzkopf Igora Royal. Should I go up to 9% in Fudge as well?

Any other tips on Fudge Headpaint would be greatly appreciated too :)

I've just taken on there deal. And I haven't achieved any coverage at all so I'm quite angry. They say any strength of peroxide will cover which in my opinion is a rather sweeping statement at best. My advice is stick to igora as fudge are crap.
 
How much natural base did you use to fashion shade?
I used 9/0 yesterday with 6%. The colour didn't even oxidise properly and just rinsed straight off without going into the hair. Absolutely abysmal.
I don't know what other people are seeing when they say it covers well.
 
Hi we have been on the color now for about 10 months, from looking at all your posts and you say you work on your own , why not ask who supplies you to go on some educational courses ?
They are Free and really good. Maybe that would help you, you could be doing something wrong, a good workman never blames his tools as they say !
 
Last edited:
Hi we have been on the color now for about 10 months, from looking at all your posts and you say you work on your home, why not ask who supplies you to go on some educational courses ?
They are Free and really good. Maybe that would help you, you could be doing something wrong, a good workman never blames his tools as they say !

I didn't say I work on my home at all. I own a salon and I am the only stylist their. I'm not blaming my tools. I followed there guidelines and rules and the colour does not work. There is no two ways about it. It does not work. I can't travel to courses as I don't have people to run the salon while I'm out of it. And because I don't have more people working for me I can't have a tech come into the salon. I've tried fudge before and had the same problems before. I was reassured that they had been re formulated. Next time i do a colour with fudge I'll post it do people can see how wonderful their coverage is. Not happy at all and I want some compensation out of this for the time and money it's going to take to re colour my clients hair. Absolutely disgusted!!!!!!!
 
i did not say you work at home, i said on your own , i have to be honest though if you don't have any training or know the product how can you use it ?
We have been to the branch we go to either Stoke or sheffield to do training and they are really good and you pick up loads of tips.
If you are not prepared to go to any training, or maybe go to another salon and sit in on there training , it is not that companys fault .
You sure you have consulted right and mixed, measured the color right, applied the color correctly, left it on for the right amount of time ?
I am no angel myself, and i have done errors over my time, but if i think it was my fault, like i used the wrong developer , not done a consultation right.
 
i did not say you work at home, i said on your own , i have to be honest though if you don't have any training or know the product how can you use it ?
We have been to the branch we go to either Stoke or sheffield to do training and they are really good and you pick up loads of tips.
If you are not prepared to go to any training, or maybe go to another salon and sit in on there training , it is not that companys fault .
You sure you have consulted right and mixed, measured the color right, applied the color correctly, left it on for the right amount of time ?
I am no angel myself, and i have done errors over my time, but if i think it was my fault, like i used the wrong developer , not done a consultation right.

Yes I have. According to fudge you can use any developer. Left it on for45 mins. It did not work! Doesn't matter how you dress it up it did not work. You don't need a course to know if a colour has taken. And as I said I cannot leave my salon as no one else to run it!!!! And as I said I'm not entitled to salon training as I'm basically not a big enough account.!!!
You have your views and I'm entitled to mine. You love and I think it's crap lets leave it their.
 
i have just read the instructions for fudge color, and i have copied and pasted for you and there is no telephone number on there ????
How to
Use The Fudge Headpaint Colour Range
A Guide to help you get the best results for your clients
Fudge Headpaint Technology
Headpaint Colour is unique because:-
1. It has a 90% Organic Base, consisting of Hydrolysed Rice protein to nourish, Malva Sylvestris Extract for shine and softness, Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) for anti-oxidant properties to protect the hair and Dimethicone, a natural oil to increase colour penetration and therefore enhance the final colour result.
2. It has Smaller Dye Technology that aids in penetrating colour molecules more quickly and more deeply into the hair which gives deep, even colour results and helps prevent colour fade.
3. It is a 2 in 1 colour system. The majority of the colours can be used for both permanent and Demi (Quasi) permanent colouring by simply using Catalyst No Lift to produce a 16-20 wash colour.
4. It has a Revolutionary ability to give coverage of white hair with ALL strengths of Peroxide.
5. It mixes on a 1 part Colour to 1 ½ parts Catalyst Peroxide making it very economical to use
92 Shades
The Fudge Headpaint Colour system is a full range of permanent colours designed for the creative mind of the working hairdresser. It comprises of the following series of tones:
.0 Naturals (cool)
.00 Intense Naturals (cool)
.1 Ash (Green/Blue)
.2 Violet
.3 Gold
.4 Copper
.5 Mahogany
.6 Red
.7 Brunette (cool)
We also use duo tones such as .13, .34, .35, .62, .64 and .73. When two tones are used we have used the ratio of 70% to 30%, i.e. .34 means 70% Gold tone and 30% Copper tone.
The first number of any of our colours is signifying the depth and is linked to the International Colour Code (ICC) which dictates that all colours with the same number are the same depth no matter which manufacturer it is from. A level 6 in Headpaint is the same as a level 6 colour in Wella or L’Oreal etc.
Shadows Colours
Shadows is a new range of lowlights in the Headpaint professional colour range. Available in 4 new shades, the Shadows range has been formulated with calming Green Tea and regenerative Argan Oil with intensified colour pigments. The intensity of colour enables hairdressers to lowlight blonde hair and create shadow effects without the need to pre-pig. This saves significant valuable time in the salon and reduces the additional cost of using extra colour or purchasing ‘fillers’ for the salon owner. Colour retention between 6 to 8 weeks, depending on the porosity of the lightened hair.
A simple code of S1 through to S4 is used as an indication of lightest through darkest level together with more creative descriptions.
Shades
S1- Masquerade – colour result similar to 5.3
S2 - Mystique – colour result similar to 6.34
S3 – Illusion – colour result similar to 7.3
S4 – Secrecy – colour result similar to 8.0
Use with Catalyst No Lift or 10 Volume/3%. Development time for all shades is 30-35 minutes.
Fudge Catalyst Crème Peroxide
Catalyst is a gentle crème developer that contains a special blend of oils and waxes that help the hair absorb colour evenly, condition the hair structure and help protect the scalp from irritation. A stabilised Hydrogen Peroxide that is a pH controlled. Catalyst comes in 4 different Volumes/Percentages
10 Volumes/3% which is for level to level or darker colour results 30 minutes
If you are covering white as well as depositing 45 minutes
20 Volumes/6% which is for 1 level of lift 35 minutes
If you are covering white as well as lifting 1 level 45 minutes
30 Volumes/9% which is for 2 to 3 levels of lift 40 minutes
If you are covering white as well as lifting 2 to 3 levels 45 minutes
40 Volume/12% which is for 3 to 4 levels of lift 45 minutes
If you are covering white as well as lifting 3 to 4 levels 45 minutes
N.B. We do not recommend the use of heat for processing any of our colours as this could lead to unpredictable end results.
All strengths of Catalyst can be used for general as well as specialist colouring. All strengths can be used on the scalp and give excellent coverage of white, lift and vibrancy.
Catalyst No Lift to make a Demi/Quasi Colour
The Headpaint range can also be used as a Demi/Quasi colour by mixing with Catalyst No Lift Developer. The colour result will last 16-20 washes in the hair. The ratio for mixing is 1 part colour to 1 ½ parts of Catalyst No Lift. Application should be made to dry hair.
If using on Virgin hair then the mixture should be allowed to sit in the bowl for a full 5 minutes prior to application to the hair to allow the mixture to become a non-permanent colour.
When using Catalyst No Lift a blend of coverage is achieved on any white hair. Fudge does not recommend that Catalyst No Lift is used on more than 50% white hair
Covering White Hair with Confidence
The Natural series (.0) are capable of coverage of white hair and can be used on their own or used in a 50% ratio mix with any other colour (excluding Mega Lift colours)
E.g. 10 ml 7.4 + 10 ml 7.0 + 30 ml of chosen Catalyst
If the white hair is resistant/strong/wiry or over 75% then we recommend the use of the Intense Natural series (.00). The Intense Naturals contain a higher dye load and are capable of covering resistant white hair either on their own or in a 50% ratio mix with any other colour
E.g. 10 ml 7.00 + 10 ml 7.4 + 30 ml of chosen Catalyst
Regardless of the strength of Catalyst being used you must develop your colour for a minimum of 45 minutes to ensure complete coverage of white hair.
Lightening with Confidence
The Ultra Light Blonde series contains 4 Lifting Blonde shades
12.0 Ultra Light Natural Blonde –Neutral (blue/violet)
12.1 Ultra Light Ash Blonde – Grey Ash (blue/green)
12.12 Ultra Light Pearl Blonde – Soft Ash (violet)
12.8 Ultra Light Cool Blonde – Ash (blue)
All 4 shades have the same lifting ability which is perfect for use on Natural level 6/7 bases or above, and can be used both on and off the scalp.
The mixing ratio is 1 part Ultra Light Shade to 2 parts 40 Volume (12%)
E.g. 20 ml 12.12 + 40 ml of 40 Volume (12%)
Timing for Ultra Lights is 45 to 60 minutes without heat.
000 Booster: When added to an Ultra Light colour will boost the lifting capacity by ½ of a level. You can add up to 50% to your formula
E.g. 10 ml 12.8 + 10 ml 000 + 40 ml 40 Volume (12%)
They have to be measured or weighed to give correct amounts of Catalyst, failing to do so will over or under activate the blondes giving a poor end result.
Timing – You can’t rush a beautiful blonde by using heat, you will kick a blonde to the yellow brick wall which is hard to overcome with any brand!
Develop for 60mins - why? The first 40 minutes the colour is lifting, the last 20 minutes it will be adding its tone. 5 minutes may not seem important but it makes all the difference to the end result.
Application: Apply generously as the hair will absorb the colour, too light an application may cause uneven end result. Push colour mixture against the natural cuticle direction
Remember – coarse hair requires more time and product application than fine hair.
Toning with Confidence
The Toner series has been created for use on level 10 and 11 lifted hair, they are capable of deposit on very light depths.
T.01 – Silver Toner – neutralises orange
T.02 – Pearl Toner – neutralises yellow
T.13 – Champagne Toner – produces beige
Application of Toners – Healthy hair apply your toner to dry hair, Porous hair apply to damp down hair using 1 Shot Spray.
Mixing Toners – Darker result mix with No-Lift 1:1 ½
• Same level but to neutralise the tone use 10 volume/3% 1:1 ½
• For a softer tone use 20 volume/6% or alternatively mix 10 volume/3% on a 1:2 or 1:3 ratio
Option 1 Option 2 Tonal Result
30ml T01 30ml 10.0 + ½ inch 1.1 Coolest silver tone
15ml T01 + 15ml T02 30ml 10.0 + ½ inch 1.1 + ½ inch 4.22 Platinum silver tone
20ml T13 + 10ml T02 Champagne tone
30ml 10.0 + 5ml 4.22 Soft lilac tone
30ml 10.0 + 2ml 8.4 + 1 inch 066 Peach tone
30ml 10.0 + 5 ml 5.62 Rose tone
Toners should be developed visually and can take anything from 2 to 20 minutes, depending on hair’s porosity, strength of tone and the Volume (%) of Catalyst chosen. Rinse when tone appears correct
Creating Reds with Confidence
The Oz Rocks Series is a collection 5 super strength Copper, Red and Violet tones 99.43 – Red Sand
88.46 – Red Dust
77.66 – Red Earth
66.66 – Red Storm
55.62 – Red Rock
These shades can be used in exactly the same way as all other colours in the range, i.e. intermixed with other shades, mixed with Naturals and Intense Naturals when white hair is present and used on and off scalp. Intensifiers can also be added to these shades.
Intensifiers i022 – Violet
i033 – Gold
i044 – Copper
i066 – Red
i088 – Blue
Intensifiers can be added to all shades. The maximum that can be added is 25% of the Headpaint shades total, however, no extra Catalyst is required to compensate for the addition of the intensifier
E.g. 20 ml 7.4 + 5 ml (25%) i044 + 30 ml of chosen Catalyst
For more Subtle intensification of a shade then we use the Rule of 8 as a guide.
How to work out the Rule of 8 – Use the depth of the colour you are going to use then subtract it from 8, the remainder is how many inches of intensifier crème you should add to your mixture
E.g. 20 ml 6.34 + 2 inches of i044 + 30 ml of chosen Catalyst
20 ml 4.22 + 4 inches of i022 + 30 ml of chosen Catalyst
Removing Fudge Headpaint after processing
Apply a small amount of water and emulsify well paying particular attention to the hairline. Rinse and then shampoo using Fudge Colour Lock shampoo, rinse well and apply Fudge Colour Lock conditioner to seal in colour. Rinse, towel dry and apply 1 Shot spray. Style and dry as usual.
Bleaching Products
Speed 2 is a gentle crème lightener for on and off the scalp work, containing vegetal oils.
Powder: Existing speed powder as the oxidizing agent to remove the pigment
Oil: Vegetal oil as a cream base and conditioning agent. It is derived from plants.
 
• Vegetal oil is a stable and reliable cosmetic material
• Used in many personal care line products
• Purpose for being in Speed 2:
• Guards and protects hair fibres during process
• Shields and protects hair lipidic structure to retain elasticity
• Moisturises, protects and soothes the scalp and hair
Mixing – Add 1 part Fudge Speed 2 (50ml) plus 2 parts Fudge Catalyst Crème developer (100ml)
Scalp Application Fudge Catalyst Timing
1-2 levels 10 volume/3% 20-40 minutes
2-3 levels 20 volume/6% 30-60 minutes
4-6 levels (depending on the depth) 30 volume/9% 30-60 minutes
Removing – Apply warm water and gently massage the scalp
• Ensure speed 2 is completely removed from the scalp area. Apply Fudge Detox, Colour Lock or Torture Tonic shampoo gently massage and rinse.
• Apply Colour Lock or Torture Tonic Conditioner followed by 1 shot OR Alternatively
Apply 1 shot, dry the hair if hair is in good condition, otherwise leave damp and apply Fudge Headpaint Toner (see section on toning with confidence) or Fudge Paintbox - Whiter shade of Pale.
• Style with Fudge styling range. Recommend the client does not shampoo the hair for 48 hours.
Speed Powder Bleach
Dust Free Off Scalp Bleach
A powerful rapid lifting action, that delivers super fast lightening results. The white powder allows you to monitor the process while Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein penetrates and repairs the hair shaft during the lightening process.
Can be used with 10, 20, 30, and 40 Volume Catalyst
All the technical stuff you need to know about the Paintbox Colours from Fudge
What it is Fudge Paintbox are Extreme Semi Permanent Colours
What it does Semi permanent hair colour that stains the cuticle layer of the hair gives vibrant, dramatic results on pre lightened hair softer, more subtle tones on natural hair conditions as it colours, giving the hair increased shine and lustre
No ammonia, no peroxide, no lift
Note Because Fudge Paintbox is a true semi-permanent colour, each time the hair is shampooed, some colour will be removed. How many shampoos Fudge Paintbox will last depends on the porosity of the hair, the frequency of shampooing and the hair care products used
Point of Difference Unique, extreme colour range
Comes in 13 cool shades
Safe for permed, bleached and coloured hair
Colours in the Range
Red Corvette Purple Haze
Pink Moon Blueberry Hill
Pretty Flamingo Cherry Bomb
Yellow Fever Turquoise Blue
Blue Velvet Raspberry Beret
Electric Blue Green Envy
Clockwork Orange
• Shampoo the hair with your favourite Fudge shampoo
• Towel dry. Fudge Paintbox will stain the hands. Remember to wear plastic or rubber gloves. Apply Fudge Varnish around the hairline as a protective barrier to prevent the skin staining.
• Squeeze Fudge Paintbox into a tint bowl.
• Using a tint brush apply Fudge Paintbox evenly to the hair, being very careful not to stain the scalp. Keep the colour away from the skin at the hairline and nape.
• Comb Fudge Paintbox through the hair using a wide toothed comb until it becomes frothy. Lighter shades will require more combing. If using foil technique, it is advisable to work the Paintbox into the section of hair using the tint brush until it becomes frothy.
• Processing time is 15 – 30 minutes.
• Pre-lightened hair – test strand at 15 minutes (Leave longer if necessary.
• Chemically treated hair (permed or coloured) – 15 minutes.
• Natural untreated hair – 30 minutes.
• A plastic cap or cling film wound loosely around the head, may be used to contain body heat and obtain maximum colour development (plastic caps will stain).
• Rinse the hair thoroughly away from the face using warm water until all residue has been removed.
• Condition with your favourite Fudge conditioner and rinse.
• Towel dry hair and style with favourite Fudge product.
• NOTE: Make sure you use a very dark or old towel as some staining may occur. Be careful the Fudge Paintbox does not come into contact with any surface as staining will occur
• Paintbox gives the truest results when used on pre-lightened hair. Lift the base to the relevant level for your target shade, i.e. Bleach hair to orange if target is one of the red or violet shades, Bleach hair to yellow/orange if target is Pretty Flamingo
Bleach hair to very pale yellow if target is blue shades or you are using pastelised shades
• Paintbox will give subtle results on natural hair.
• Always shampoo out Bleach prior to application of Paintbox
• Paintbox works by staining the cuticle of the hair
• Hair with uneven porosity or depth will give uneven results
• Paintbox will stain (cover what you care about)
• Paintbox colours are intermixable
• The more porous or damaged the hair shaft is, the quicker the fade will be, but the longer the stain remains.
• ‘Whiter Shade of Pale’ – the party mixer for toning and creating pastel shades.
• Remember the laws of the colour wheel. Example – when using violet or blue based tones on hair that appears yellow or orange, the Paintbox colour results will be altered i.e. yellow +blue = green
Whiter Shade Of Pale
What it is The ultimate blonde toner and Fudge Paintbox Party mixer
What it does AS A TONER
Whiter Shade of Pale will neutralise pale yellow tones in light blonde or pre lightened hair, creating stunning soft natural blondes.
AS A PARTY MIXER
To create softer more pastel colours with Fudge Paintbox on light blonde or pre lightened hair. Add Whiter Shade of Pale to mixing bowl first. Then slowly add very small amounts of your favourite Paintbox shade. Test your mix on cotton wool to guarantee best results.
NOTE: Whiter Shade of Pale cannot be mixed with orange or yellow Paintbox shades as the colours will neutralise each other.
Removal of Paintbox from the Hair: Removal is easy because Paintbox colour pigments stain the surface of the hair and do not penetrate deeply. Therefore a colour removing shampoo will help remove Paintbox away ready for your next colour.
Formula Colour Removing Shampoo
Mix equal parts Fudge Speed Bleach, 10 or 20 Volume Catalyst and Fudge Shampoo
How to use Apply mixture to damp hair staying away from the scalp area. Check progress every five minutes for a total of twenty minutes. Rinse, follow with Fudge shampoo, conditioner and One Shot.
NOTE: Removal of artificial pigment must always be handled carefully. Processing must be checked constantly in order to avoid excess damage and uneven colour results.
 
i appreciate what you are saying but you have to be careful what developer you use, you need to use the right one, we can't just use any developer ?

I understand your frustration, but i just want to try and help you this is what the forum is about, they do loads of free courses, do you not get a day off ?
 
i appreciate what you are saying but you have to be careful what developer you use, you need to use the right one, we can't just use any developer ?

I understand your frustration, but i just want to try and help you this is what the forum is about, they do loads of free courses, do you not get a day off ?

Yes I know. All of this is in the guide. I appreciate you doing this for me but it still doesn't work if you follow the guidelines I used 6% for coverage. And I didn't get any. I did a 1-1 mix as that is what it suggested for resistant hair and again no coverage. I will call Alan Howard and get the lot taken back. I do not want it in my salon. I feel that they have really let me down with this colour and I will not be ordering from them ever again.
 
what a total shame, i just glad i could help in some kind of way.
 
O no what a shame, haven't you got any hints or tips for him??? You changed from matrix to fudge so there must be something you can add from personal experience????
 
i would have used the 00 range on this client as it sounds her hair is resistant, and then i would have done a mix of one to one, and may be use 10 vol, what i like about fudge is that colors are very cool based, and you can intermix all of them to create new shades and tones.
 
Sorry if I've caused disputes but I was quite annoyed after trying to put someone's hair to a normal colour after having a disaster last night. Thankyou everyone for your comments and I'm sure I'll get it sorted after some training. A good outcome today from the negative thus morning. X
 
how lovely to hear such lovely news, enjoy your weekend x
 
Thanks for your reply. I agree, its very confusing when the manual dictates using ANY developer. I had a success today with the colour, I used half 5.00 and the other half 6.34 with 9% and had great grey coverage. I may make my formula half a shade darker next time because the 9% lifts quite a bit.
If your having trouble with the grey coverage you could try pre-softening with straight tint, I have definitely found that the fudge colour is not as high performing as the Igora but unfortunately I cant afford to use that one, with more trial and error im learning how to use the fudge to get the results i need.
 
The good news is that I have stuck with fudge for a few weeks. I have tried the resistant shades and stuck to the guid lines sent to me by the technician.
The bad news is I still think it's awful and don't like it. It's not a patch on igora or indola. I could try pre softening and I could try this or I could try that but why should I when most colours work with out all the faffing around. Glad I tried it and it was good to compare what's on the market. Each to our own. Xxx
 
I agree why should you have to waste time and money pre softening or whatever - a product should work according to the instructions given.
 
Good on you Smuff, least you gave it a go, we are waiting to try the new brunettes next month, good luck in your color hunt and have a good week :)
 

Latest posts

Back
Top