Hair colour help

[Halo88]

If im reading this right you've done high lift with bleach in foils?because you've used put the high lift on a dark base say level 6 its gone golden, id of washed this area first and toned with something stronger 8/18 let that take then use something gentler on the foiled areas such as the toner you used 10/16 you have to assess the areas even if it means using 2 different toners


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[Xamyx]

You said above you "done colour between the foils"

I did I done the highlight tint In between foils so it would break up the line from her roots more.

Basically I done fine layer of highlights- I got a small section of hair weaved through it and of that section of hair I left half of it (to keep her natural dark colour) then dyed the other half and put in foil and then I done the next section and done exactly the same- weaved through that section left dark bit underneath and done foil on top. I repeated this a few times then got another section and put tint all over that section on her roots. Then went back to doing the sections of highlights and just kept repeating this process.

I must of done the highlight sections too fine as there is not a lot of the darker weaves section left at all, there is some when I look through it but looking at the picture you can't see it at all, so maybe when I done the section of colour all over the root maybe these sections were too thick so the dark weaves sections have been lost underneath if that makes sense?

I'm thinking about going over with bleach( mixing with pastel) to lift it more and using the toner again using the same toner 10/16
Would it of been best to just use bleach in the first place? Then used the same toner

 

[cassies97]

I did I don't the highlight tint I between foils so it would break up the line from her roots more.



Basically I done fine layer of highlights- I got a small section of hair weaved through it and of that section of hair I left half of it (to keep her natural dark colour) then dyed the other half and put in foil and then I done the next section and done exactly the same- weaved through that section left dark bit underneath and done foil on top. I repeated this a few times then got another section and put tint all over that section on her roots. Then went back to doing the sections of highlights and just kept repeating this process.



I must of done the highlight sections too fine as there is not a lot of the darker weaves section left at all, there is some when I look through it but looking at the picture you can't see it at all, so maybe when I done the section of colour all over the root maybe these sections were too thick so the dark weaves sections have been lost underneath if that makes sense?

So you done highlights with a highlift, then went inbetween the foils with the same highlift?

 

[surf girl]

Sorry no it dosent 🙈 I'm not being mean here but from the pic I would say you had foiled then coloured the roots (with a highlift) then toned afterwards

What you should have done to maintain a natural looking set of highlights was foiled then spatched or coloured the mid length and ends of the left out hair in the same colour as the natural root (or any brown) that would have broken up the block blonde and look natural

Did the client want highlights or global blonde?

 

[cassies97]

Sorry no it dosent 🙈 I'm not being mean here but from the pic I would say you had foiled then coloured the roots (with a highlift) then toned afterwards

What you should have done to maintain a natural looking set of highlights was foiled then spatched or coloured the mid length and ends of the left out hair in the same colour as the natural root (or any brown) that would have broken up the block blonde and look natural

Did the client want highlights or global blonde?

This is what i was thinking. But then with the client saying it wasn't as blonde as she wanted i would've stuck to scalp bleach...

 

[liana kay]

Ok , from the first post , she liked it a bit darker at the root and always came up gold previously ? the pics dont look too bad but then I havent looked too closely and cant see the actual hair in the flesh . you could have back to backed your foils that would have put more colour in there without being all over. What percentage did you mix your toner with for it to lighten the hair ?
What I dont get is that she wants it lighter when previously to start you mentioned she wanted it darker , and also 1000 and 12% isnt going to acheive bleach blond on that kind of base , which she knew already. You could lowlight for a more natural look , but to be honest Id be more confused about what she wants to acheive .

 

[Xamyx]

So I tried to rectify the problem,I used 30mls of wella blondor multi blonde (powder) with 60mls welloxon perfect pastel 1:2

I washed this out and the roots were really yellow/ orange

I applied toner on the wet hair at the roots I used 30mls of the wella 10/16 mixed with the same welloxon perfect pastel 1:2 (used 60mls)

Ithe hair looks a little better but still looks abit ginger at the roots and some parts have gone a little bit grey mainly on the Fringe, obviously left toner on too long but it was really orangey/ yellow I wanted to make sure i got rid of that as much as I could.

What have I done wrong i thought king this would get rid of any yellow.

Did I use the wrong toner? Is there a toner anyone would recommend that would get rid of the yellow/ orange.

She usually has really bright blond but quite likes it being more of a light ash colour but obviously want to get rid of the ginger roots.

I'm not sure what to do now as don't want to dye the hair for the third time and damage her hair! Should she wait a while maybe when she needs her roots done then I can either put the highlift tint 1000 with 40vol on her new roots and the old roots that have turnt ginger then use the 10:16 toner

Or would I use the blondor powder with maybe a 20 vol peroxide then the 10:16 toner ?

 

[Xamyx]

Here is another picture where you can see more of the ginger.

 

[surf girl]

If she wants to be all over "bleach blonde" leave the highlifts alone, the natural hair is too dark to lift it enough, it's fine for foils but not for root application, toners are not a fail safe solution to any lightening problems, you need to have lifted to the desired level first to work with the toner

What do you think will happen if u do as u said and leave her roots grow then apply highlift to the root and take it through the previous band?

 

[tsparker78]

You cannot use a level 10/ toner on level 8/9 hair, it just doesn't work.

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[Xamyx]

So I am best using the wella blondor powder mixed with peroxide.

What toner would you recommend then if a 10/16 is not enough?

 

[tsparker78]

It depends on the result you achieve. You must learn to.accurately evaluate the end result of your lightening process. Use a level either one below or at the degree of lightness. Then think of your color wheel, what color nuetralizes the undesirable remaining color?

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[Xamyx]

I am not that confidant with toners.

I know with yellow you use a violet toner and with orange I would you a blue toner.

But to achieve a light blonde or ash what would you recommend i use after the blondor powder.

If it's orange is there a good toner you recommend?
Or if it is more yellow is there a good toner you would recommend for this?

 

[tsparker78]

If its yellow and not gold, I'd use 9/60 in illumina. But you can't slap it on the whole head or her ends will go lillac.
If its orange you might need to go with a 7/81.
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[tsparker78]

Based on the pics, if the hair can take it, I'd re bleach that yellow band. Lift it to the inside of a banna or frozen butter. Shampoo, condition with anit oxy, towel dry, mix illumina 9/60 and 9/0 half and half with 2 parts pastel. Visually develop, emusify through the ends, rinse, then condition.

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[surf girl]

Now that's how you explain yellows! Well done! Love that!

 

[tsparker78]

Ty

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[Xamyx]

Based on the pics, if the hair can take it, I'd re bleach that yellow band. Lift it to the inside of a banna or frozen butter. Shampoo, condition with anit oxy, towel dry, mix illumina 9/60 and 9/0 half and half with 2 parts pastel. Visually develop, emusify through the ends, rinse, then condition.

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Thank you for your help, I know I will learn more and more from experience.

Just to be sure when you say mix the Ilumina 9/60 with 9/0 the 9/0 isn't I lumina it's the wella koleston perfect?

Also I know this may seem really silly question but how would you determine wether it is yellow or orange when sometimes it can look orangey yellow, especially when the hair is wet it's darker so might make it look more orange so how would I determine wether to use the toner for the orange or the toner for the yellow, or is it just a case of my own judgement (which I guess I don't really trust :-s )

 

[tsparker78]

Thank you for your help, I know I will learn more and more from experience.

Just to be sure when you say mix the Ilumina 9/60 with 9/0 the 9/0 isn't I lumina it's the wella koleston perfect?

Also I know this may seem really silly question but how would you determine wether it is yellow or orange when sometimes it can look orangey yellow, especially when the hair is wet it's darker so might make it look more orange so how would I determine wether to use the toner for the orange or the toner for the yellow, or is it just a case of my own judgement (which I guess I don't really trust :-s )

No no. don't mix illumina with kp.

As far as determing the level, dry it off if necessary and re dampen before toning.

Put a stick of butter in the freezer and pull it out after a while. That's your goal! Don't get discouraged. Practice makes.perfect.

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[tsparker78]

Maybe this will help.

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