Help! Colour correction urgent advice needed

[annabeebalc]

please help .
I have been doing a client for the past 6 months. she is a base 4, I have been using a high lift 12 on her which brings me to a golden 8.
Today she told me that she wanted to go a little darker then usual and wanted to go to an ash tone.
I applied 8.1(ash) and 10.1 total of 50g of colour and added 2g of violet to the mix. DISASTER! her hair is naturally porous and has sucked up the violet. It was glowing!!!! I washed it off after 30 mins (usually 45) because I was panicking.
I dried it off and applied a 8.13 toner to the root, was then going to apply toner throughout but could see that the toner wasn’t going to do enough to the glowing violet roots ‍
I’ve asked her to come back in the morning for me to fix it but I don’t know what to do for the best. Obviously I’m horrified at the current result. I have been a hairdresser, running my own salon for 10 years and have never encountered this before. Obviously I’m very upset about it. Currently thinking of either bleach bathing it up or doing foils throughout which won’t entirely lose the violet/ginger tones.
Can anyone suggest a suitable toner???
So grateful for any advice.
From a very upset and horrified hairdresser x

 

[AcidPerm]

I’m struggling to understand your colour choices. What made you choose a highlift plus 12% on a base 4? There wouldn’t be enough colour pigment to neutralise the level 8 yellow base so that’s why it was golden.

I’m also wondering why you mixed 10.1 with 8.1? Did you want a 9.1 for the roots but not have it in stock?
What were you planning to use on the mids and ends?

So what’s the current goal that you’re trying to achieve?

 

[annabeebalc]

Thanks for replying. When she came to me, she had been having 12 with 12% for years with her previous hairdresser. She asked me to do the same for the previous 6 times I have coloured her hair. She has always been happy with the results even though (in my opinion) she was very glowing/brassy. I mixed 8.1 and 10.1 because I didn’t have any 9.1. I want to get her to. 7 base which was as high as I thought I’d get her keeping in mind that I was going to be working tonally from there on. She’d like to be a flat 7 I was going to tone miss and ends with a beige. X

 

[ronray]

To get a flat level 7 on a base 4 you'd need to lift to an 8 and then deposit the new tone. I would bleach it now, address the different bands of colour separately, treat them like a different head of hair. When you've achieved a level 8, I would pre tone tone with an 8 violet do probably illumina 8/69 or kp 8/96. Then after you've neutralised the yellow, add a 7/89 or 7/1 in colour touch.

 

[AcidPerm]

Without wishing to appear rude, I think you need some refresher colour training.

9.1 with added violet on a level 4 root was never going to turn a flat 7. (Which wouldn’t look great either.)

If you’re using Wella, you have to choose the tint at the same level as the desired result, unless you’re looking to go 4 or more depths lighter, then you need to bleach and tone.

For a 7 on a base 4, you should have gone for a 7 tint, so something like 7/2 on the roots.

Depending on the condition of the hair, I would do a very mild bleach wash first on the mids and ends to lift out excess tone and lift up to an 8, then apply the root tint mix and something similar in Colour Touch with pastel on the rest of it, as you’re just depositing colour.

If a new client came to me and told me their old hairdresser was applying highlift plus 12% on a base 4, I’d be thinking they weren’t very good at colouring and I’d grab the opportunity to show the client how much better her hair could look and feel using the correct tint mixes.

First rule of hairdressing, you’re the professional and you don’t let the client dictate how to achieve the desired goal. The consultation is your opportunity to find out about their hair history and what they’re looking to achieve. You then decide how best to get there and provide advice on maintenance and styling.