Help colour nightmare

[Ellechopchop]

Hi, I'm just completing my level 3 so not overly experienced and really need some advice and guidance

I have a friend who had a full head of highlites 2/1 with a bleach and 40 + 5.0... She's had this for about 18 months but around Mother's Day went for a package deal in another salon with her mum and had ombré done but hated it.

I told her to let it fade and give it some time but now she wants to be FH blonde but obviously I'm worried about how uneven it's going to lift up because of the old colour underneath.
So I've done a strand test tonight and it's lifted up to a 9 with bleach + 40vol for 40 mins and surprisingly the condition is amazing.

So what would you do? Her hair is usually really resistant and naturally quite red, base 7
I don't think a bleach bath will touch it

Thanks

 

[mollie1985]

Ok for a start bleach and 40 volume is a big no no you shouldn't be doing this, if I was you by the sounds of it I would just do a full head of foils back to back with bleach and 20 volume then tone xx

 

[Ellechopchop]

Ok for a start bleach and 40 volume is a big no no you shouldn't be doing this, if I was you by the sounds of it I would just do a full head of foils back to back with bleach and 20 volume then tone xx

Thanks for your help
Can I ask why bleach and 40 shouldn't be used?

 

[adamlea87]

Using a higher developer works quicker but will cause more damage than leaving a lower developer on for longer. You also tend to get a cleaner result by lightening the hair slowly.

When you use a lower strength developer the bleach powder is fueling the lift, peroxide also contributes to the lift but causes an additional type of oxidative damage to the hair so it's better to limit the strength when used at a high pH such as with bleaching.

Interstingly although persulfates (bleach) are more effective at lightening the hair, peroxide itself is more effective at solubilizing the granuals of melanin pigment, which is the first step in the lightening process. Once solubilized the pigments can be dissolved/bleached by the persulfates & peroxide mixture.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[Ellechopchop]

Using a higher developer works quicker but will cause more damage than leaving a lower developer on for longer. You also tend to get a cleaner result by lightening the hair slowly.

When you use a lower strength developer the bleach powder is fueling the lift, peroxide also contributes to the lift but causes an additional type of oxidative damage to the hair so it's better to limit the strength when used at a high pH such as with bleaching.

Interstingly although persulfates (bleach) are more effective at lightening the hair, peroxide itself is more effective at solubilizing the granuals of melanin pigment, which is the first step in the lightening process. Once solubilized the pigments can be dissolved/bleached by the persulfates & peroxide mixture.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using SalonGeek mobile app

Wow thanks

 

[ColourGirly]

Using a higher developer works quicker but will cause more damage than leaving a lower developer on for longer. You also tend to get a cleaner result by lightening the hair slowly.

When you use a lower strength developer the bleach powder is fueling the lift, peroxide also contributes to the lift but causes an additional type of oxidative damage to the hair so it's better to limit the strength when used at a high pH such as with bleaching.

Interstingly although persulfates (bleach) are more effective at lightening the hair, peroxide itself is more effective at solubilizing the granuals of melanin pigment, which is the first step in the lightening process. Once solubilized the pigments can be dissolved/bleached by the persulfates & peroxide mixture.

Sent from my GT-I9505 using SalonGeek mobile app

Well that beats any 'Shame on you you use 40vol and bleach' responses.

I vote on this being at the top of the forum along with 'thou shall not ask what colour is this? What brown should I put on' lol

 

[jadecoral]

I was working in a salon and they said I had to use 12% when highlighting cos its quicker! They didnt like me when I stood up to them and said no you shouldnt do it! X

 

[faerififi]

Some older salon owners who perhaps havent updated their skills still think using bleach and 12% is the norm. My exs mum is one of those, she told me she preferred to use 60vol with highlift i was like whaaaaaaaat D:

 

[ColourGirly]

Yes and those hairdressers pass their skills onto trainees. Who sometimes don't have the experience to work like this so it can end up I'm sticky situations.

Hey I trained with 60vol, on scalp!

But as products have evolved there's just no need and I prefer my results now.