Highlift saying use single peroxide?

[Hannsh]

Hello All,

Longtime lurker and level 2 here

Schwarzkopf has a Lifting Cream in the Blondme range that doesn’t require you to double up on the developer. Where does the lifting come from? My first thought was surely it would be loaded with ammonia but I’ve checked the package and it appears to have the same amount as any other highlift (third ingredient, although obviously the true proportions aren’t known).

Curious where the lifting power would come from as it claims to lift up to 5 levels. I was thinking this could be a less damaging alternative to the usual highlifts... Any thoughts?

 

[Hannsh]

Penny for anyone’s thoughts

 

[ELLE BELLA]

It’s probably similar to L’Oréal maji meche , that lifts more than a high lift tint but more slowly than bleach , I sometimes would use it if the hair was lighter than a six and was doing tint highlights / lowlights and needed the lighter colour to lift more slowly

 

[Hannsh]

Thanks for replying Elle Doesn’t the majimeche contain bleach though? I’ve never used it but I think it has three components? I think the Schwarzkopf is a true high lift, I’m just puzzled at the developer mixing ratio!

 

[adamlea87]

There is a balance between the 'working' amount of peroxide and the percentage of ammonia in the colour depending on the mixing ratio.

The working volume of peroxide depends on how much colour dilutes the developer. For example if you mix equal parts of 20vol and colour creme the working volume of the peroxide will be diluted to 10vol.

So by increasing the amount of developer you increse the amount of working peroxide. BUT likewise your colour creme might contain 5-20% ammonia. So the more peroxide you add, the less ammonia and the lower the pH of the final product.

Peroxide itself is an alkaline and highly volitle, so is sold with added acids to stablise the pH. We use ammonia to raise the pH back up to an alkaline level otherwise we would be waiting verrry long time to lighten the hair.

Ultimately the manufacturer must find a balance between the ammonia % and the working volume of peroxide. Too much peroxide or too much ammonia and the pigments will over oxodize and the colour deposit will be poor.

 

[Hannsh]

There is a balance between the 'working' amount of peroxide and the percentage of ammonia in the colour depending on the mixing ratio.

The working volume of peroxide depends on how much colour dilutes the developer. For example if you mix equal parts of 20vol and colour creme the working volume of the peroxide will be diluted to 10vol.

So by increasing the amount of developer you increse the amount of working peroxide. BUT likewise your colour creme might contain 5-20% ammonia. So the more peroxide you add, the less ammonia and the lower the pH of the final product.

Peroxide itself is an alkaline and highly volitle, so is sold with added acids to stablise the pH. We use ammonia to raise the pH back up to an alkaline level otherwise we would be waiting verrry long time to lighten the hair.

Ultimately the manufacturer must find a balance between the ammonia % and the working volume of peroxide. Too much peroxide or too much ammonia and the pigments will over oxodize and the colour deposit will be poor.

Thank you... That’s very informative! So, damage-wise, would you go with the traditional double 12% highlift or the one I mentioned in the OP.

 

[adamlea87]

Damage wise... it is the peroxide that actually degrades the hair so more ammonia may be preferable. But more ammonia makes the peroxide more unstable/more damaging which is why I say it is a balance..