Continuity for new clients highlights/toner/highlift

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AJonesMobile

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Hi Guys bit of a long one but bear with it! haha xx

Sooo..
I have a new client coming to me this weekend who is looking for a change in hairdressers, when she approached me for a full head of highlights she said she normally has bleach and a highlift tint (ash or natural) - this was what her previous hairdresser had told her and a L'Oreal P01 toner.

I use BlondMe bleach and developers usually for highlights (personal preference) and all other colours whether it be permanent, semi or toner i use Wella.

She naturally is a base 6/7 (a little warm) and her ends are a a little golden still where she has gone from dark to light (gradually with highlights however i am not too worried about this as i will be able to get it a lot cleaner with a low lift on the ends then toner) I'll be using the BlondMe and 9% for the roots to get that clean lift and a weaker mix for the ends as they need a little refresh.
For highlift thinking of using 12/16 or similar with 12% due to the warmth of her hair and the fact it will have a few levels to lift up (she knows she isnt going to achieve platinum blonde overnight with her current hair situation and that isn't her end goal so i am aware it may not come up true to colour and thats not a problem

Now my concerns are:
1 - I am unfamiliar with L'oreal (Used it whilst training as a junior 9 years ago but changed colour systems soon after so its all gone out of my head!)
2 - I wouldnt be keen on using L'oreal P01 to tone with ESPECIALLY with a wella highlift on there (i know all toners are visually developed but heard lots of horror stories about P01 and how quickly it can turn and she has a lot of thick hair)
3 - Should i just stick to the bleach highlights and use a toner i'm comfortable with until i get to know her hair and do away with the highlift for now? She would like it multi tonal hence the high lift but its going to be multi tonal to a certain degree anyway due to the current colour of her ends and the amount of lift i will be able to achieve in the foils. Or can anyone suggest a highlift from the wella range which would kick the brassyness out as well as taking into account the natural warmth in her hair?

As i say she is not wanting to be platinum nor are we expecting miracles however just to have a cleaner nicer looking blonde and get rid of any remaining brassiness and we will both be happy for now! I have attached a snippet of a picture of her hair - not the greatest photo however gives you an idea of what ill be working with.

Let me know your thoughts!
xx
 

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I think no 3. I definitely wouldn’t bother with a highlift on her natural as it’s too dark to lift to an ash/platinum colour. The pigment in a highlift tint just isn’t strong enough to neutralise the yellow exposed when lifting from a 6/7.
 
Thanks for your response! Do you use any of the wella toners? Now having a debate with myself whether to use one of the kolestons or colour touch I know it will naturally be multi tonal and still a bit if the darker blonde in there but would like to get it a nice creamy blonde even if it's slightly darker just no brass! Xx
 
what about doing 2 different levels of bleach highlights? Like a 30 volume for the brighter highlights and a 10 volume for a 'lowlight'. I do this with my clients and it gives a nice natural look. The 10 volume is still blonde, but more of a lighter brown without brassiness, and softens the contrast between the bright blonde and her natural base color. Also, I almost never need to tone this, especially if they are looking for natural and not platinum.
 

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