Honey blonde on client who has lots of gold tones already

#1
I have a client who is a base 7 and wants her hair honey blonde. She used to have bleach with toner but it sends her hair way too white and the toner doesn’t last long so I changed her to Wella Koleston 9/1 with 9%. It seemed fine in the summer and a perfect colour as the sun seemed to lift it that little bit more and she loved the condition of her hair but now it’s winter it’s looking very brassy. Have tried toning it which works short term but the gold seems to keep coming through quite strongly. Am thinking maybe I should change to wella Koleston highlift tint 12/1. Am wondering will this make much difference or has anyone else got any recommendations. Thank you
 

ronray

Active Member
#2
I have a client who is a base 7 and wants her hair honey blonde. She used to have bleach with toner but it sends her hair way too white and the toner doesn’t last long so I changed her to Wella Koleston 9/1 with 9%. It seemed fine in the summer and a perfect colour as the sun seemed to lift it that little bit more and she loved the condition of her hair but now it’s winter it’s looking very brassy. Have tried toning it which works short term but the gold seems to keep coming through quite strongly. Am thinking maybe I should change to wella Koleston highlift tint 12/1. Am wondering will this make much difference or has anyone else got any recommendations. Thank you
Try 10/38+12% on root and 10/38 pastel on M.l.E
10/0 12% on root only.
And 9/17 with pastel lowlight all the way through.
 
#3
Try 10/38+12% on root and 10/38 pastel on M.l.E
10/0 12% on root only.
And 9/17 with pastel lowlight all the way through.
Great; thanks, will give it a try
 

Haircutz

Super Moderator
Staff member
#4
Surely ‘honey’ is a warm golden tone? It’s definitely not a cool tone so I wouldn’t use /1 on it.
I think the gold is the natural yellow undertone showing through that just needs softening.
9/7 in Illumina is a soft warm honey tone.
 
#5
Surely ‘honey’ is a warm golden tone? It’s definitely not a cool tone so I wouldn’t use /1 on it.
I think the gold is the natural yellow undertone showing through that just needs softening.
9/7 in Illumina is a soft warm honey tone.
Yes your right it is a warm golden tone which she wants without it bring brassy which is why is was using /1 to try and neutralise the orange that is coming through. I did a test cutting with /3 and it just makes it more orange
 

Haircutz

Super Moderator
Staff member
#6
Wella Tones...

Unlike most other colour houses, the /1 in Wella isn’t meant to be used as a neutralising colour.

/1- Grey Ash (mix of blue and green) which can subdue a colour but cannot neutralise anything.
/2 - Matt Ash (Green) neutralises red.
/3 - Gold (Yellow) neutralises Violet.
/4 - Red, neutralises green.
/5 - Mahogany (red violet)
/6 - Violet, neutralises yellow,
/7 - Brunette (mixture of yellow, orange, red and a little bit of violet)
/8 - Pearl (blue) neutralises orange.
/9 - Cendre (like a violet-blue ash, almost mink colour)

Basic rules are to match the toner to the level the hair has lifted to. Therefore, there’s no point using a level 10 to neutralise copper as orange undertones are found on hair from a level 5 up to a 7 and there won’t be enough colour pigment in the 10 to neutralise hair that’s 2 to 3 levels darker.

Just as a matter of interest, is she a copper/strawberry blonde naturally?
People with a natural Celtic type colouring (pale skin, blue eyes, strawberry blonde to copper) struggle to lift beyond copper using tint alone and I find more success using bleach then applying a toner. I think they have a higher density of the copper pigment in their hair compared to your average level 7 hair colour.
 
#7
Thanks so much for such a comprehensive breakdown of the tones. No she isn’t a strawberry copper at all. In fact a very non descript brown which happens to go a very nice blonde in the sun but very dull and muddy looking in the winter but obviously has undertones of gold as on lifting it with tint goes very coppery/brassy. Lifts very quickly with bleach but goes very yellow if I use 3% peroxide and with 6% goes too white . She is usually very happy with it but I really wanted to achieve that perfect colour as never feel it’s totally right
 

ELLE BELLA

Active Member
#8
If 9/1 is too golden how about using 9/16 ? The violet may neutralise the gold , unless she has a % of grey ( they will turn pink )
 
#9
Thanks so much for such a comprehensive breakdown of the tones. No she isn’t a strawberry copper at all. In fact a very non descript brown which happens to go a very nice blonde in the sun but very dull and muddy looking in the winter but obviously has undertones of gold as on lifting it with tint goes very coppery/brassy. Lifts very quickly with bleach but goes very yellow if I use 3% peroxide and with 6% goes too white . She is usually very happy with it but I really wanted to achieve that perfect colour as never feel it’s totally right
Am thinking a 10/8 with 9% on the roots might work then maybe. 10/8 with pastel on mid length and ends
 
#10
If 9/1 is too golden how about using 9/16 ? The violet may neutralise the gold , unless she has a % of grey ( they will turn pink )
She has very little grey, strands really so think this could be a good solution. If I add a bit of 9/0 then hopefully that will stop any grey going pink
 
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