Illumina issues - please advise?

[Michelle Louise]

I have a client whose hair will not take with Wella Illumina, after 4 attempts. Her hair is 100% white, fine and in good condition. I have used 10/36 with one third base 9, tried with Welloxon 6% and also 9% processed for 30 mins, tried longer. Colour appears to take, but after 1 week it is completely washed out as if it was never coloured..Not even on the roots so it is not a porosity issue. Please advise what the possible causes could be? (She is not on any medication and does not expose to sun, also wella brilliance shampoo.) Thank you.

 

[cassies97]

You need to switch to use a pure 9 if not darker, nothing lighter. A 10 just will not cover unless you scalp bleach first.

 

[Michelle Louise]

10/36 is the chosen shade. I mixed with base 9 for coverage so it should not be an issue. The issue is that it is appearing to take but washing out after 1 week. Scalp bleach on naturally white hair, I don't think so? Any pro's out there with similar issues with Illumina or any advice? TIA

 

[cassies97]

10/36 is the chosen shade. I mixed with base 9 for coverage so it should not be an issue. The issue is that it is appearing to take but washing out after 1 week. Scalp bleach on naturally white hair, I don't think so? Any pro's out there with similar issues with Illumina or any advice? TIA

I've not had one issue with illumina's coverage because i've used it properly. Don't disregard my answer as if its invalid.

You will NOT get coverage on 100% white with a 10. You're also probably going to have to switch to kp because as you may or may not know illumina has a much more sheer coverage than kp... You also might want to consider the fact her hair could be resistant.

Yes scalp bleach, by bleaching white hair you expose the remaining keratin thats yellow in colour, thus achieving a pale yellow result that can be toned.

 

[Summer rain]

Illumina is very sheer , I wouldnt use on hair that's a high percentage of white .. Switch to K.p .. Innocense is fab for coverage.

 

[Michelle Louise]

As I said it covered initially with no transparency...the problem is it washed out.. I repeat, I did add base 9 not just level 10/36. Cams97 I am experienced and know that 10 alone will not cover 100% white hair and bleaching my clients white hair is not an option or relevant to my question.. Never had this issue with KP with this method so why with Illumina is my burning question. Client particularly wanted a shade that is not available in KP. I understand Illumina is very sheer but don't expect it to wash out after 1 week.

 

[Piercednige]

As I said it covered initially with no transparency...the problem is it washed out.. I repeat, I did add base 9 not just level 10/36. Cams97 I am experienced and know that 10 alone will not cover 100% white hair and bleaching my clients white hair is not an option or relevant to my question.. Never had this issue with KP with this method so why with Illumina is my burning question. Client particularly wanted a shade that is not available in KP. I understand Illumina is very sheer but don't expect it to wash out after 1 week.

It sounds to me that the tone was deposited just on the cuticle and would wash out just like a toner would rather than penetrating in.

When I did my wella MCE training we discussed covered of both illumina and KP and you only get 100% coverage with Base 8 including double Base in KP and below (this is even when using 99/0 too, although I find it covers great).
So even though you added 9/ illumina it still wouldn't have been strong enough to cover the white and why it washed out like a toner

 

[cassies97]

As I said it covered initially with no transparency...the problem is it washed out.. I repeat, I did add base 9 not just level 10/36. Cams97 I am experienced and know that 10 alone will not cover 100% white hair and bleaching my clients white hair is not an option or relevant to my question.. Never had this issue with KP with this method so why with Illumina is my burning question. Client particularly wanted a shade that is not available in KP. I understand Illumina is very sheer but don't expect it to wash out after 1 week.

Why can't you make the shade in KP?

 

[Michelle Louise]

Why can't you make the shade in KP?

Piercednige Thank you so much for this advice, I will try with base 8, but are you suggesting I use KP Base 8 as opposed to Illumina Base 8 (and what ratio) as I was taught never to mix Kp base with Illumina . You are spot on, it was the perfect toner shade, but sadly washed out. I really appreciate your advice as I need to give my client answers. Thank you so much

 

[kellylill]

I'm sure when you're applying on over 70% grey you need to use a ratio of 1:1 with the colour (10/36) and the base natural?

 

[jamiereid92]

I only use illumina for soft lifting and toning. If my client is wanting coverage i would stick with KP as its much more dense colour. I see Illumina as a colour range in between KP and Colour Touch. I need to go and do some more colour training though i feel out of the game lately!!!

 

[Michelle Louise]

I'm sure when you're applying on over 70% grey you need to use a ratio of 1:1 with the colour (10/36) and the base natural?

Thank you for taking the time to reply, very useful advice

 

[Michelle Louise]

Thank you for the

I only use illumina for soft lifting and toning. If my client is wanting coverage i would stick with KP as its much more dense colour. I see Illumina as a colour range in between KP and Colour Touch. I need to go and do some more colour training though i feel out of the game lately!!!

useful advice

 

[Piercednige]

Piercednige Thank you so much for this advice, I will try with base 8, but are you suggesting I use KP Base 8 as opposed to Illumina Base 8 (and what ratio) as I was taught never to mix Kp base with Illumina . You are spot on, it was the perfect toner shade, but sadly washed out. I really appreciate your advice as I need to give my client answers. Thank you so much

No I'm not suggesting you use base 8, was just explaining that you are only really guaranteed 100% coverage for a base 8 or below.

If you use a base 8 it will be far too dark for what you want to achieve. Was just saying it's probably why it didn't really cover or Saturday in the hair.