Help.. I'm doing a family members hair tomorrow, I'm newly qualified and just need a little advice, her natural hair is around a base 5. But she has her hair platinum blond, I've previously used a wella koleston 12/1 special blond.. With 2:1 40vol but it has turned her roots kind of yellow/orange.. Her roots have came through again and I'm just wondering what I could do to make it a nice light blond evenly all over. Any help would be great as I'm in a big panic xx
Lifting without turning orange
- Thread starter Katiexo
- Start date
Help Support SalonGeek:
JosephJunior_
Well-Known Member
from a base 5 ur best to lift with lightener and tone. You won't get a nice clean platinum look with highlift
ColourBoy
Well-Known Member
A highlift won't give you anything like a platinum blonde unless it's on something like a level 8.
Also, even if you were going to use a highlift on a base 5, 12/1 is certainly not the right one!
Also, even if you were going to use a highlift on a base 5, 12/1 is certainly not the right one!
ColorMeGiddy
Well-Known Member
It's best to lighten the hair (carefully) and then to tone accordingly. You have to remind yourself, to always consider what you are starting with and dealing with after lightening. Remember your color wheel and which colors cancel oranges vs. yellows.
So what would you recommend I buy when I go the wholesales, could I not add a spot of blue bleach to that or am I wasting my time?
ColorMeGiddy
Well-Known Member
I would lift with lightener and tone. What color brands are you familiar with? If you are going to stick with wella, Illumina is great. I am a big fan of illumina for toning platinum blondes. It really depends on giving formulas over here because its going to depend on how light you get her. Does she like it WHITE, more of an ashy touch? A small violet hue? You are going to have some yellow tone to it...You have to formulate your toner to get rid of that specific tone, which just goes back to your colorwheel. 9/60, 10/1,10/61, 10/ and 1.9.
You are newer so i want to reiterate how important it is to NOT OVERLAP your lightener with the hair that has already been lightened. Also, precision is key, take small sections to make sure you arent missing any hair.
You are newer so i want to reiterate how important it is to NOT OVERLAP your lightener with the hair that has already been lightened. Also, precision is key, take small sections to make sure you arent missing any hair.
Wella koleston and matrix, it's just that her roots are so dark and she likes it platinum very very light, but ashy.. Could you step by step of what I should do? Should I use bleach (pre-lightener)?
cassies97
Well-Known Member
This site isn't for step by steps. We will give you advice but you need to think of formulas. If you cant think of a way to do this clients hair then you shouldn't do it. Scalp bleach and tone, simple, as already been told. You however need to decide how long its left on for and what toner to use. Do you have your level 2 and 3?
cassies97
Well-Known Member
Thats some mature 12 year old i'd be speaking to if i was speaking to them about scalp bleaches and chemicals... Level 2 and 3 in hairdressing?
cassies97
Well-Known Member
cassies97
Well-Known Member
Okay so, what tones do you expose when you get to a level 10 that you'll need to neutralise?
cassies97
Well-Known Member
If you're still seeing orange on a level 10 with bleach, its probably not a 10. You should be seeing pale yellow. Do you know the tones in wella?
Last time I done this clients hair, I used 12/1 on roots were it had gone dark. And it was Abit gingery so I was thinking add a scoop of bleach in this time? Or would that be wasting time? And no not really sorry
