Hi,
I am Asian and when I went to a makeup-course in Denmark, with one of the best makeup-artist there, I learned a lot about my eyes. I will try to explain in English, but it might be difficult and not understandable at all...
You should make the eyes the opposite than Europeand eyes, the dark shadow near the nose. You want the eyes to look closer to the nose and the nose to look not that flat and wide. Hmmm... this was very difficult to explain in English... Did you understand at all???? It would have been easier to draw it for you... Anyway, most makeupartist don't know about this little "trick". I have seen so many Asians, at TV, that are makeuped wrong. When I showed the trick to another makeupartist she said: "WOW, I've never thought about this, but it REALLY made it!"
Just be very careful with the blending and don't use too much shadow...
C.
Yeah I know exactly what you're talking about Cec :green:
It's a basic rule of contouring (shading and highlighting)....if eyes are wide apart you can balance this by applying a darker shade to the inner corner of the eye, and vice versa if eyes are closer together you apply a lighter (usually with shimmer, to enhance the properties of a highlighter) shade to the inner corner. To rounden very flat and long eyes, applying a neutral taupe to the inner and outer corners and a highlighting shade in the centre of the lid, works very well.
As for beckzx query regards black and asian skin types, it would have been nice to know more about her course before answering her question, because tbh, all her questions should have been answered by practical and theory work she undertook whilst studying.
With black and asian skin types, I find colour correction very important. I generally use peach on Asian skin to warm up the sallow areas (under the eyes is the usual place) and on black skin I use red to warm up cool ashy areas (under eyes and temple area down to jawline seem to be worst offenders).
As estherlou says, when you are white and doing makeup on black skin, you can sometimes be inclined to pick up a shadow and think "God, no, too bright!" instinctively because the first mental image you get is of what that colour would look like on your own skin. I love working with black skin, because you can use the richest strongest burgundies and saffrons and violets and they look amazing....not 'too much' at all.
As for foundation, most of MACs foundations cover a wide spectrum of skin tones and depths. They did, however, design a range with pink colour correction
in the foundation, this was awful! Pink, on cool black skin, will look ashen. You will find most black skin needs warming, although a lucky few will naturally have no ashen areas. I love Stila's Illuminating Foundation, which goes from 10 watts (lightest) to 100 watts (in multiples of 10) and mixes really well to make every skin tone in between.
Another important thing to remember when applying colour is - don't undo your hard work! I have seen an MUA do a fantastic job of warming a sallow asian skin, with spectacular correction around the eyes, and then apply a light olive green shadow, which just made the model's eyes look like they did with no makeup!
