Q & A Wknd - AHA'S How do they work ??

[bombini]

This may sound like a stupid question but unfortunatly I don't feel from the training I have received I really understand exactly how AHA'S work ?

I know what they are but I don't really know how to explain them in great detail ?

 

[Lellipop]

AHA's work by loosening and/or dissolving the glue-like substance that binds skin cells together. The higher the percentage of AHA in a solution, the deeper through the skin’s levels the AHA's will penetrate and the quicker the loosening of the skin cells will occur. This loosening process helps the skin cells to exfoliate the buildup of dead skin cells of the epidermis. Unlike mechanical exfoliation (scrubs), the skin is not damaged by abrasives or by the physical manipulation of the scrubbing process. Sensitive skin in particular cannot deal well with harsh scrubs and exfoliators. This is the reason AHA's have become so popular is that they produce much better results than scrubs. By ‘ungluing’ the skin at a much deeper level than cosmetic scrubs, they produce a deeper exfoliation process. They are much gentler than Retin-A. They have none of the side effects linked to Retin-A. Sun exposure (always recommended against because it ages the skin) is not forbidden.

 

[Sassy Hassy]

Just to add to the above that it is a combination of the pH balance AND the percentage of AHA that is the key. The lower the pH and the higher the percentage the stronger the effect ... and at certain levels (over about 35 - 40%) they may only be applied by a medically trained person.

 

[bombini]

Thanks guys

Just two things Im confused with.

Sensitive skin, I was always led to believe aha's can cause a reaction with sensitive skins (which I have seen before) and that sun exposure is to be avoided after an aha treatment.

 

[Sassy Hassy]

The thing with a sensitive skin means there is a greater possibility of it reacting! My daughter gets really bad eczema and the one thing that really sets it off is hard water ... yup water!!! So the best thing with a sensitive skin is to do a patch test with any products to make sure. But then again with my daughter one minute she is fine with stuff and then when she has a flare up she has to avoid them til her skin settles down. The products she use don't necessarily set it off, but they can aggravate it during a flare up. I have had clients who have mega sensitive skins and are absolutely fine with Nimue, more so than most traditional brands which tend to have a high perfume content for example.

When having a salon AHA treatment clients are best to avoid the sun for a few days due to the deep exfolitation. When having a medical AHA treatment with a full on Glycolic peel then I beleive this is extended to weeks. And of course clients should wear an effective sun screen all the time anyway,

 

[bombini]

Thanks again guys :green: