Slightly confused by undertones

[zebra_cake]

We had a Loreal technition come in work yesterday and take us back to basics ......she was great understood everything she said.

However i have now confused myself as i alway do

if someone is a base 5 and you put a 7 on it then you need 2 levels of lift, you would use 20 vols ....

this would creat a undertone....

so sometimes you would have to put 7.1 on hair to get the colour 6 as the .1 neutrilises the undercoat. and ash colours always apear darker.

so if thats what you put on the roots to get the desired affect of 6 would you then just put 6 on the midlengths and end or would you put 7.1??? this is what i have confused myself with . i am thinking you would just put 6


please can you just help me thank you

 

[Jamie-Michael.O]

Hey,

If i'm honest your question confused me a bit, ash tones will only go as dark as the colour swatch in your colour chart, but lets say what your saying is true and ash does go darker then why would you put 7.1 (when your saying it would go to a 6) when your trying to achieve a 7? I think you may be thinking to much into it and confusing yourself. Plus i would use 20 vol for 1 shade of lift, 30 vol for 2-3 and 40 for 4 (5 with high lift tints).

Personally bases such as 6, 7 and 8, i would never use ash with them, but like i said thats just a personal thing, i feel they come out to karki looking, i would only ever use ash when i'm trying to neutralize natural and artificial tones such as red, orange and yellow.

Depending on what the target result is i would just apply to target colour to mid-lengths and ends and then root area.

Obviously they are so many contra-indictions involved when colouring, you have to considered gray, current depth and tone and if the colour is overall achievable (which i'm sure you already know). Don't let one little back to basics lesson knock your confidence down, remember not everything in the basics covers how salon life runs.

Hope this has helped

J x

 

[lilly]

We had a Loreal technition come in work yesterday and take us back to basics ......she was great understood everything she said.

However i have now confused myself as i alway do

if someone is a base 5 and you put a 7 on it then you need 2 levels of lift, you would use 20 vols ....

this would creat a undertone....

so sometimes you would have to put 7.1 on hair to get the colour 6 as the .1 neutrilises the undercoat. and ash colours always apear darker.

so if thats what you put on the roots to get the desired affect of 6 would you then just put 6 on the midlengths and end or would you put 7.1??? this is what i have confused myself with . i am thinking you would just put 6


please can you just help me thank you

I would use 20 for 2 shade lift, not 30 ?

As to the colour, I'm confused why going from a 5 to 7 would create an undertone !? I'm looking forward to hearing from one of our bril colourists !

 

[HairSquared]

Its not going to create an undertone, it will merely expose the existing one.
The color you are trying to achieve, if you are working on virgin hair, does not require neutralization, as the 20 vol will lift you the 2 levels you need, and deposit the neutral 7.
The underlying tone gets harder to conceal the more times artificial pigment has been added, as it cannot be removed the way natural pigment can (color wont lift color)
When you are formulating, you have to remember that your root formula will always process a bit quicker and a bit warmer in tone, due to scalp heat, and then also you must factor in grey.....you may have to add in the inderlying pigment that is lacking in grey hair
Most colors are formulated out of the tube to deal with the underlying....its not until you start correcting that you must factor in the extra tone, depth and contrasting color.

 

[zebra_cake]

Its not going to create an undertone, it will merely expose the existing one.
The color you are trying to achieve, if you are working on virgin hair, does not require neutralization, as the 20 vol will lift you the 2 levels you need, and deposit the neutral 7.
The underlying tone gets harder to conceal the more times artificial pigment has been added, as it cannot be removed the way natural pigment can (color wont lift color)
When you are formulating, you have to remember that your root formula will always process a bit quicker and a bit warmer in tone, due to scalp heat, and then also you must factor in grey.....you may have to add in the inderlying pigment that is lacking in grey hair
Most colors are formulated out of the tube to deal with the underlying....its not until you start correcting that you must factor in the extra tone, depth and contrasting color.

I think ive just over thought it and confused myself. maybe ash was a bad example.
i meant expose the existing undertone not create a new one sorry.

from what i have been told if i had a client base 7 and and wanted the outcome to look like 9.03 i would need 2 levels of lift , so i would use 20 vols . because the undertone in 9 is pale yellow you would only need to put 9 on because the lift will show the current undertone already......

so if you put 9 on the natural colour/regrowth (to look like 9.03) would you then put 9.03 on the ends or 9 ??

thanks for all your help

 

[njrivett]

yes, a base of a 7 has a lot of gold in it, so a 9/0 is fine, the ends, if you were just refreshing a previous application of 9/0 i would put 9/03 to prevent it going khaki, but if it is virgin hair i would use 9/0 as it will have the gold undertones already there, the lift of peroxide to use i think depends on which colour brand you use, they all seem to differ so check with your technician for that one