Some advice please!

[Amandahartly]

So.... When I did my training many moons ago, I learned that when colouring over blonde with brown, that you have to add some undertone which I get completely. But every time I do this it always comes out too warm. I've just done my friends hair tonight who was full head bleach highlights, her base is a really ashy level 6. I've just done a root stretch & used matrix 6n with a few cm of 6m & it's come out really warm! How can I make it ashy without going green? X

 

[cassies97]

I can only advise for wella, never used matrix.

You will have a warmth when you prepig with warmth unless you neutralise the warmth that you've prepiged with, for example:

You prepig with perfecton 0/43, the hair is orange, then you apply 7/0 and end up with a 7/3, if you used 7/81 you'd end up with a 7/1.

 

[cassies97]

Also... Illumina doesn't green over prelightened hair without pre pigging but it will fade.

 

[Amandahartly]

Thank you.
I always add to my colour rather than doing beforehand, with being mobile I don't have as much time to do 2 processes. But you meanif I was doing the root stretch, I'd use 0/43, then I'd have to re apply over the pre pigged hair with 7/81? Is there no way of doing it in 1 go? X

 

[vividamnesia]

Use more gold with a drop of copper in it for filler a level lighter than target so a 7gc for filler would be best to have the right amount of warmth to balance with any N series for target colors applied afterwards.

 

[Amandahartly]

Use more gold with a drop of copper in it for filler a level lighter than target so a 7gc for filler would be best to have the right amount of warmth to balance with any N series for target colors applied afterwards.

Thank you

 

[cassies97]

Thank you.
I always add to my colour rather than doing beforehand, with being mobile I don't have as much time to do 2 processes. But you meanif I was doing the root stretch, I'd use 0/43, then I'd have to re apply over the pre pigged hair with 7/81? Is there no way of doing it in 1 go? X

Remember that porous prelightened hair absorbs warmth, so using something like 7/31 may result in a 7/1 or 7/0 because the gold has been absorbed.