Wella Illumina!

[AllanJudge]

I've got a client who is a natural level 5; she's chosen 8/1 from the KP colour chart i've got at home, but I want to buy Illumina.

It might seem like a simple question, but i've only just started using Wella again and my colour knowledge isn't that great - can I just put an 8/1 straight onto her hair or should I mix it with other shades? I would prefer to just use it on its own because it starts to confuse me when I have to mix colours together.

Will 8/1 Illumina and 12% developer do the trick?

Thanks.

 

[cassies97]

No, 7/81 and 9/60 4g 5/81 and 12%.

Remember to achieve a cool shade you always have to neutralise and /1 won't neutralise anything!

 

[AllanJudge]

How do you know that? I'm not questioning you cause I think you're wrong cause I know you're not. But how do you just know they're the colours that need to be mixed?

 

[AllanJudge]

In other words can you explain why them 3 colours will make 8/1

 

[cassies97]

How do you know that? I'm not questioning you cause I think you're wrong cause I know you're not. But how do you just know they're the colours that need to be mixed?

Exposed undertones 5-8

5 - reddish orange (/8 for orange, unfortunately there are no /2 shades in illumina... HOWEVER i have before used 0/28 from kp with no ill effects but i recommend you always follow mfi to cover yourself)
6 - orange (/8)
7 - yellow/orange (/8 for orange, /6 for yellow)
8 - yellow (/6)

/1 will help cool it down even more, the extra 5/81 will intensify the tone.

The primary tones will neutralise the exposed warmth and /1 will add the ash tone.

 

[AllanJudge]

I understand underlying pigments and know what neutralises what, just finding it hard to completely understand the theory behind your suggestion. I know to you it's probably black and white but I just can't get my head around it.

Do I NEED all 3 of these colours? If you think I do, then I will get them.

Can you tell me how much of each colour I should mix please, in terms of how much of the tube I should squeeze out. I should get scales really.

 

[cassies97]

Yeah you need all three. Half 7/81 and half 9/60 (result is an 8) i.e 30g 7/81 30g 9/60, 4g of 5/81 and 64g 12%.

You really need scales because you're not gonna get it spot on without and formulas always need to be.

Tell me exactly what you don't get and why you don't get it because I want to help you understand.

 

[AllanJudge]

It's just colour theory in general. It's a lack of good training, partly that and partly because I didn't appreciate the times when i've had good training and didn't listen.

I know the basics but making formulas like the one you've made here, I don't get it.

I want 8/1, so why wouldn't 7/81 and 9/60 be enough? (Just curious there, not trying to get out of buying the 5/81 [emoji23])

There's /81 and /60 which are the tones you need to neutralise the undertones that will be exposed with lifting from a 5 to an 8 - what is the role of the 5/81? Is that just for depth/richness?

 

[busybusy!]

Would this work on a level 5 with 30% white?

 

[cassies97]

It's just colour theory in general. It's a lack of good training, partly that and partly because I didn't appreciate the times when i've had good training and didn't listen.

I know the basics but making formulas like the one you've made here, I don't get it.

I want 8/1, so why wouldn't 7/81 and 9/60 be enough? (Just curious there, not trying to get out of buying the 5/81 [emoji23])

There's /81 and /60 which are the tones you need to neutralise the undertones that will be exposed with lifting from a 5 to an 8 - what is the role of the 5/81? Is that just for depth/richness?

No, its more tone.

Think about how intense the tone is when you're lifting through these depths. The 5/81 acts as a special mix.

 

[byKaty]

Cams you are amaze balls with formulas

 

[Lauren121]

Have you never considered going into teaching cams? I think you would be amazing!

 

[byKaty]

Have you never considered going into teaching cams? I think you would be amazing!

I second that! I would be on first plane over to take a class with you!

 

[cassies97]

Have you never considered going into teaching cams? I think you would be amazing!

Yeah, just not in hairdressing[emoji12]

 

[Lauren121]

Yeah, just not in hairdressing[emoji12]

Noooo you so should do it in hairdressing! I'm sure you will be brilliant in whatever subject you have in mind! X

 

[cassies97]

Noooo you so should do it in hairdressing! I'm sure you will be brilliant in whatever subject you have in mind! X

Nerr i'm not really interested in doing hairdressing anymore!

 

[Olive293]

If there was a dislike button you'd be getting it for that last comment!!!

Nerr i'm not really interested in doing hairdressing anymore!

 

[cassies97]

If there was a dislike button you'd be getting it for that last comment!!!

Haha. I've just lost interest and moved onto bigger things.

 

[Olive293]

Haha. I've just lost interest and moved onto bigger things.

I understand. I lost interest years ago and tried bigger and better things. Having kids changed a lot for me and also moving to Australia (I'm originally from London, I trained with RUSH) so when I moved here 9 years ago I had no choice but to take a big break. Setting up my business now is a completely new thing for me but determined to make it work. Maybe one day you will be the same. As passionate as we are for this trade, when the passion dies it's such a hard job to get up and do!

 

[byKaty]

Haha. I've just lost interest and moved onto bigger things.

Nooo way!! Really?? I don't believe you. Please say it ain't so!!