What developer where?

[MJHosie]

hi all.
Just a quicky. Opinions differ in our art. However here are some of the things I've adhered to.
20 vol with bleach for 2 levels
30 vol with bleach for 3 levels
My friends are only disagreeing over
Toner.
10vol with toner on pre lightened hair or 1.9%(6 vol) instead.
Which is best answer?
Oh and while we, in Scotland have no idea when lockdown is lifted we do know colour requests shall be popular. SO,, we have been informed of need to make hair appointments speedy, speechless and coffee less. Advice of no close contact of more than 15 minutes without a break. Would I be the only one to say a full head of highlights is going to be impossible. Root regrowth maybe and full colour but foil work takes more time and having breaks in between will mess with results.
Views?

 

[AcidPerm]

No, that’s not correct. I think you’re confusing bleach and tint.

Depending on the brand of tint, you might use 20vol for 2 levels of lift and 30vol for 3 levels of lift, but in every case, you need to check the manufacturers guidelines as it varies enormously. I remember some years ago at college we ran experiments using same level tints on hair swatches and discovering that you got more lift from the Goldwell and L’Oréal tints than the Wella tints using the same strength of developer. It was a useful lesson to learn.

With bleach, the amount of lift on natural hair depends on the bleach product more than the developer strength. You should normally get 4 levels of lift with 20vol allowing it time to properly develop and you shouldn’t really use higher than 20vol mixed with bleach on the scalp unless the manufacturers instructions say otherwise. With 30 vol, the lift is quicker but it can sometimes produce patchy results so the usual mantra is Low & Slow where bleach is concerned.

Toners are often applied at the basin where you watch it develop and can rinse it off before it’s full development time.

 

[ronray]

hi all.
Just a quicky. Opinions differ in our art. However here are some of the things I've adhered to.
20 vol with bleach for 2 levels
30 vol with bleach for 3 levels
My friends are only disagreeing over
Toner.
10vol with toner on pre lightened hair or 1.9%(6 vol) instead.
Which is best answer?
Oh and while we, in Scotland have no idea when lockdown is lifted we do know colour requests shall be popular. SO,, we have been informed of need to make hair appointments speedy, speechless and coffee less. Advice of no close contact of more than 15 minutes without a break. Would I be the only one to say a full head of highlights is going to be impossible. Root regrowth maybe and full colour but foil work takes more time and having breaks in between will mess with results.
Views?

The developer used with toners is generally brand specific. It's generally 10 vol or lower. Some brands offer 2 developer strengths depending on the intensity desired.
From personal experience the lower the developer strength the better the colour deposits and the nicer the hair is after the process.

 

[ronray]

hi all.
Just a quicky. Opinions differ in our art. However here are some of the things I've adhered to.
20 vol with bleach for 2 levels
30 vol with bleach for 3 levels
My friends are only disagreeing over
Toner.
10vol with toner on pre lightened hair or 1.9%(6 vol) instead.
Which is best answer?
Oh and while we, in Scotland have no idea when lockdown is lifted we do know colour requests shall be popular. SO,, we have been informed of need to make hair appointments speedy, speechless and coffee less. Advice of no close contact of more than 15 minutes without a break. Would I be the only one to say a full head of highlights is going to be impossible. Root regrowth maybe and full colour but foil work takes more time and having breaks in between will mess with results.
Views?

The developer used with toners is generally brand specific. It's generally 10 vol or lower. Some brands offer 2 developer strengths depending on the intensity desired.
From personal experience the lower the developer strength the better the colour deposits and the nicer the hair is after the process.

 

[MJHosie]

No, that’s not correct. I think you’re confusing bleach and tint.

Depending on the brand of tint, you might use 20vol for 2 levels of lift and 30vol for 3 levels of lift, but in every case, you need to check the manufacturers guidelines as it varies enormously. I remember some years ago at college we ran experiments using same level tints on hair swatches and discovering that you got more lift from the Goldwell and L’Oréal tints than the Wella tints using the same strength of developer. It was a useful lesson to learn.

With bleach, the amount of lift on natural hair depends on the bleach product more than the developer strength. You should normally get 4 levels of lift with 20vol allowing it time to properly develop and you shouldn’t really use higher than 20vol mixed with bleach on the scalp unless the manufacturers instructions say otherwise. With 30 vol, the lift is quicker but it can sometimes produce patchy results so the usual mantra is Low & Slow where bleach is concerned.

Toners are often applied at the basin where you watch it develop and can rinse it off before it’s full development time.

I agree over bleach. I am talking of the toner at the backwash. some using 1.9%(6vol) this won't get into the cortex but with 10vol is gets toner a bit further on. the 6vol fades quicker but is more vivid. Matter of taste

 

[ronray]

Depends if the hair is bleached or not. If the hair is freshly bleached especially - the cuticle is already open, so you wouldn't need such a high developer to open the cuticle.