Base shade 5 to vanilla blonde?

[slrbabes]

I am Level 2 qualified and needing are bit of advice! My client is currently a 5/0 (wella koleston) with an orange pre-pig underneath. Wanting blonde like that of Charlotte Crosby (ill try and include pics - new to this site!) Not sure how to do it! Thinking a colour remover then bleach, not sure what base colour to do or highlights? any advice is appreciated! xxx

 

[Rachul123]

Hiya, so assuming theres bleach under there too? Before the pre pig?
How many applications of the base 5? X

 

[rac__hel]

How confident are you with toning? I would stay slowly show you client a photo of highlights in 5/0 hair and use do a full set of highlights to keep the condition intact.. Without seeing the hair I would say 20vol- if there loads of layers of colours and no bleach underneath and hair is good condition maybe 30
If hair is in bad condition maybe 10 vol

And remember don't promise too much as she will be disappointed xx

 

[slrbabes]

Only on the ends as she previously had it dip-dyed. Im cutting it into a asymetric bob anyway. Theres one box dye in light ash brown that she put on and ive done two applications of the 5. x

 

[slrbabes]

I know the basics of toning, and im quite confident. Theres one layer of bleaching and a few colours. Could anyone whose worked with Wella help me on choosing colours? I was thinking of doing a colour remover or stripper, then a layer of bleach/bleach bath depending on how light it goes after the colour remover/stripper, then a full head of bleach highlights and a colour inbetween, maybe a base shade 10 or 11. Im guessing the hair will still be yellow/orange after bleaching so maybe a 10/16? Or a 10/8?

 

[slrbabes]

Or maybe a 12/16 in the highlights and a 10/8 inbetween? How would you do it? xx

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

If the hair is strong enough to go down the full head bleaching route, then great. The thing to remember is that anything below a 6 tends to be incredibly stubborn to remove from my experience. Especially since there's a few permanent 5/0s on there. You could certainly use a colour stripper.... I'd expect it to reveal an orange undercoat which you can then do something good with. Why don't you strip all of the hair to a level 7 orange, then do a full head of bleach foils back to back, tint with a level 7 in between, tone your bleach foils with say 10/16 or 10/8, and explain to your client that you can get her blonder on the next full head of foils? She will be considerable lighter after this process anyway! And without the unwanted tones xx

 

[Rachul123]

Id strand test bleach with 10 and 20vol and do a full head of highlights x

* then tone afterwards

 

[slrbabes]

Thanks everyone! When toning with Koleston you add your colour with a pastel developer and visually develop (5-15 mins ish) yes? I've not tried toning with Koleston yet!

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

Yes that's correct personally I prefer the nourishment of color touch for toning prelightened hair, 9/16 and 10/0 equal parts is nice or 2 parts 9/16 to 1 part 10/0 xx

 

[slrbabes]

Ok thankyou! Ill post a pic when its done this week! x

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

Fab! Good luck, I'm sure it will be beautiful! X

 

[slrbabes]

Ok so unfortunately her hair was more damaged than she let on and after the colour remover and a mild bleach bath i was not willing to add another bleach! Her hair was a pale orange colour with a few lighter and darker bits. I tried a mixture of 11/1 in foils and 10/8+9/16 inbetween. It turned out slightly toned down but still far too orange. Not sure what to do now! I did a toner of 10/16 and there still wasn't much difference, she doesn't mind going a bit darker but not back to 5, if i put a natural 7 or 8 over will it turn out a nice dark blonde/light brown? (feeling defeated )

 

[kimi1101]

If it's orange it's on an undertone of 7. So you will need to recolour To a 7 then work towards getting lighter if condition allows. Not giving you a hard time but it's your job to assess the condition of the hair, not the clients. In future, take a strand test and see how it goes

 

[slrbabes]

I did a strand test and it was fine with the bleach, its on one side thats really damaged but it didn't seem it at the time :/ i know i should of noticed its lighter than a 7 imo its really pale orange x

 

[persianista]

Orange is only present on level 7 or below. If orange is present, and you don't know how to lift it up more, then recolour to a level 7

 

[Rachul123]

8/81 colour touch? Do a strand test with it first x

 

[rac__hel]

The undertone of a 8 level is a yellow/orange so it may be an 8 level- you will know yourself- use something to counteract a yellow/ orange I.e a 8.21 don't over ash it or you will get khaki especially if there's lighter already toned secriones in it

 

[ColourgeniusMrH]

How about highlighting with a bleach and tone on tone developer eg 1.9% color touch emulsion, or bleach and pastel developer... Then go round the outside with base 7, I think that should be enough to tone down the orange without risking khaki tones from ash x