Client with 100% white hair

[louise1234]

I have a client who has 100% white hair. She has been box dying her hair dark brown for 10 years. She now wants to go blonde ! I have done 2 sets of full head foils and 1 full head bleach! The ends are a yellow/orange colour. If I use Wella 12/0 + 12/1 will this cover the 100% white root but lift her orange ends ?

 

[LoveHairstyles]

I have tried to use 12/0 on white hair and it didn't do anything. I ended up doing 9/0 with 20 vol and it toned the white nicely.

 

[louise1234]

Ye I was thinking 12/0 wouldn't work! Do you think I am best to bleach up ends to blonde ( hopefully ) then do 9/0+ 10/0 to achieve a blonde

 

[LoveHairstyles]

Maybe try a bleach wash on the ends to see if you can lift anymore of the yellow/orange tones!! If you do just put 9/0 all over. If it still doesn't lift it do 9/0 then put a toner over it.

 

[AcidPerm]

Wouldn't it have been easier to use a colour reducer instead of consecutive applications of bleach?

Also, I'm wondering why you would consider applying a level 12 to white hair?

Have you done any training on colouring grey hair? You need to approach it from a different angle. I remember doing a half day Matrix colour course a few years ago that concentrated on grey hair, that was very helpful.

If she's been applying box dyes for years, the ends will be completely saturated with colour and will obviously take much longer to lighten than the mid lengths and root area.

 

[louise1234]

Maybe try a bleach wash on the ends to see if you can lift anymore of the yellow/orange tones!! If you do just put 9/0 all over. If it still doesn't lift it do 9/0 then put a toner over it.

Thank you! think that is what I will do

 

[louise1234]

Wouldn't it have been easier to use a colour reducer instead of consecutive applications of bleach?

Also, I'm wondering why you would consider applying a level 12 to white hair?

Have you done any training on colouring grey hair? You need to approach it from a different angle. I remember doing a half day Matrix colour course a few years ago that concentrated on grey hair, that was very helpful.

If she's been applying box dyes for years, the ends will be completely saturated with colour and will obviously take much longer to lighten than the mid lengths and root area.

The ladies hair was off black so colour reducer wouldn't of touched it, yes because it was box dyes her ends were saturated with colour ( reason I used beach to remove it ) this now the 3rd time I have lightened her hair and i am asking for advice for the next time (4th) yes I am trained to level 3 and been on the salon floor for 3 years. The ladies hair is not grey it is 100% white and the reason I was looking at 12/0 + 12/1 is because she wants to have platinum hair

 

[AcidPerm]

If it's white, you need to add colour.
Using a 12 on white hair is the same as toning level 10 with a highlift tint. It doesn't work because the amount of pigment colour in a highlift isn't enough. It leaves it translucent and wish washy looking.

Have you used a colour reducer before because removing artificial colour is what they're designed to do.
It's much kinder to the hair than repeat applications of a bleach & peroxide mix.

 

[Bella93xox]

If it's white, you need to add colour.
Using a 12 on white hair is the same as toning level 10 with a highlift tint. It doesn't work because the amount of pigment colour in a highlift isn't enough. It leaves it translucent and wish washy looking.

Have you used a colour reducer before because removing artificial colour is what they're designed to do.
It's much kinder to the hair than repeat applications of a bleach & peroxide mix.

Just wondering what is your favourite colour reducer? I haven't been very successful with them in the past

 

[AcidPerm]

I use Affinage Eraser as they sell it in my local wholesaler.

What sort of problems did you have previously? You do need to thoroughly agitate the hair during the rinsing process to help wash out the colour molecules. It can be faffy but it should work. You might need to re-do the process for seriously colour saturated hair.

 

[Bella93xox]

Thank you. I just found it didn't lift the colour as much as I would have liked it. I just rinsed as I would do a colour, emulsified and rinsed but probably didn't emulsify enough and the hair had been box dyed for years!

 

[AcidPerm]

It is really important to follow the steps thoroughly. It's not like rinsing out a colour.

You know those tiny polystyrene beads you get in bean bags that stick to everything? Imagine the colour molecules being like that and you have to try to get every single one out of the hair. If you leave too many in, they re-oxidise and grow large again.

For heavily saturated colour, you probably need to repeat the process 2-3 times but at least you're not damaging the cuticle layer like you would be if you were re-applying a bleach mix.

 

[Bella93xox]

Thank you Definatly makes better sense to me now

 

[louise1234]

So what colour or base would you recommended I use on white hair to get a bright blonde , hoping next time I bleach shampoo her ends it will lift even to yellow then can tone. Yes I have used affinage which I found very expensive and didn't do much I have also used nxt colour remover again did very little.

If it's white, you need to add colour.
Using a 12 on white hair is the same as toning level 10 with a highlift tint. It doesn't work because the amount of pigment colour in a highlift isn't enough. It leaves it translucent and wish washy looking.

Have you used a colour reducer before because removing artificial colour is what they're designed to do.
It's much kinder to the hair than repeat applications of a bleach & peroxide mix.

I've

 

[AcidPerm]

So what colour or base would you recommended I use on white hair to get a bright blonde , hoping next time I bleach shampoo her ends it will lift even to yellow then can tone. Yes I have used affinage which I found very expensive and didn't do much I have also used nxt colour remover again did very little.

I know you're likely to disagree but I can only assume that either the colour you were trying to remove was a non-oxidising colour, such as a direct dye or you didn't follow the instructions exactly.

Colour reducers are excellent at removing artificial colour, (I've been using them for some time now) but it's vital that you understand how they work and use them properly, otherwise, the remaining molecules will re-oxidise and return to their original colour.

I really like Illumina for toning blondes as their colours look beautifully natural. It shouldn't be too difficult to choose the right shades for her skin tone. Personally, I use 2-3 tints to vary the depth of colour, especially on white hair as it needs that variation in tone adding to make it look natural. (All over tints on white hair rarely look good, in my opinion.)