CND Shellac problems-please help!

[perfectly polished]

hi i have been doing shellac since november 2014 and i am having issues with chipping. its mostly hit and miss whether the shellac lasts with the clients. most have chipping before 2 weeks are up. now, i am aware that it depends on lots of things including aftercare being followed, nail condition, weather etc, but if i can go through my stages on pep and polish, can you please advise me where i can be going wrong?
all my products are bought from Ellisons and s2 so they are genuine. i have between 1 and 3 clients per day and my cnd lamp has about 85 hours left on it.(i also do artistic colour gloss so i alternate between my cnd lamp and a led lamp for the artistic application.)

for the CND process here is what i do:
1-cleanse hands
2-file nail with a crystal nail file to desired length. if the clients wants a lot filed off, i clip the nail first to desired length before shaping with the file.
3-i always do dry cuticle work unless i see a thick layer of cuticle skin covering parts of the nailbed. i use a metal cuticle pusher to push back cuticles gently scraping off any from the nailbed/nailplate. i have watched fingernailfixer so i know i am doing it correctly.
4-using a nail brush i brush off any flakes of dead cuticle that i have pushed away.
5-any hangnails removed with cuticle nipper. i try to avoid using them but will do if there is anything unsightly that should be removed.
6-scrubfresh. i scrub it onto each nail for several seconds, including the free edge.
7-i inspect the nail, and shape the cuticle again with the cuticle spoon pusher, just to ensure a good shape.
8-a quick wipe over with scrubfresh again.
9-i shake up the base coat, colour and top coat in the Robart hobby paint shaker for about 15 seconds.
10-i scrub the base coat thinly onto each nail and the free edge, then cure for 10 seconds in the lamp.
11-one thin colour coat including the free edge( it is sheer at this point so i know i am not applying it to thick.)clean up with an orangewood stick if needed. cure for 2 minutes.
12-repeat step 11 for the second colour coat.
13-i top coat carefully, checking that i have covered the entire colour with it including the free edge (and i never get any colour on the pad i use to remove the inhibition layer so i am doing it properly).
14-remove inhibition layer and solar oil. i advise the client of the aftercare at this point.

my applications are always extremely neat. i have attached some to show that i am not a messy worker so that cant be the cause.

 

[Lilypie]

Where is the chipping happening? Is it by the eponychium or at the free edge?
I always use Cuticle Away as I find it removes lots of cuticle, much more than a dry prep. You nees to enaure you are deactivating cuticle remover if you are using one

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[perfectly polished]

Where is the chipping happening? Is it by the eponychium or at the free edge?
I always use Cuticle Away as I find it removes lots of cuticle, much more than a dry prep. You nees to enaure you are deactivating cuticle remover if you are using one

Sent from my GT-I9505 using SalonGeek mobile app

The chippin is always from the free edge so its not due to the cuticles.
And when I use cnd cuticle away I always deactivate with a soapy water spray,but I barely use it unless I see thick cuticle on the nail bed.

 

[twid]

Is it the same clients having a problem or is it lasting sometimes on client but not at other times?

Karaxxx

 

[southerntech]

Do you cap your free edge? Sorry if I over looked that in your post. I always do but especially with a French. I had some chipping problems with french. A good cap seems to help. The only other thing I can think of is its not a product problem. For instance I had a client who kept chipping with in a few days. After listening to her over a couple of appointments I found out she was scrubbing the grout in her pool and scrapping the tip of her nails. Breaking the seal and causing chipping.


Edited... After going back and reading more carefully I see capping is not the problem.

Sent from my VS980 4G using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[perfectly polished]

Is it the same clients having a problem or is it lasting sometimes on client but not at other times?

Karaxxx

Its with alot of clients.sometimes they last and sometimes they don't.it could be the same client who it will last well once but the next time wont last well.
And yes,I am capping the free edge.I am soooo confused and so frustrated as I am havng to compensate them with free reshellacing and this costs in time and money.

 

[twid]

How thick is your application? it's essential to have it "thin to win"! Having said that I find that on certain clients an extra layer of top coat helps, just makes then a little thicker and stronger.

Karaxxx

 

[nailcandymk]

What I have noticed is that clients who have not really been able to grow their nails long naturally, or have had gels or acrylics tend to use their nails as tools without even thinking about it - because they aren't used to being gentle with natural nails. They type at work using the tips of their nails, they open cans using their nails not the pads of their fingers. They say they use gloves to clean but half the time they won't put gloves on to give the table tops a quick wipe with a flash wipe or something with bleach on it because they don't class it as "cleaning" if it's a quick, five second Job. Also I think the winter affects some nails worse than others. I also used to get frustrated when clients shellac started chipping and had to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. But clients get upset even if they are to blame. So I've started using brisa lite smoothing gel which has helped massively. Really helps stops chipping on the slightly heavy handed clients

 

[perfectly polished]

What I have noticed is that clients who have not really been able to grow their nails long naturally, or have had gels or acrylics tend to use their nails as tools without even thinking about it - because they aren't used to being gentle with natural nails. They type at work using the tips of their nails, they open cans using their nails not the pads of their fingers. They say they use gloves to clean but half the time they won't put gloves on to give the table tops a quick wipe with a flash wipe or something with bleach on it because they don't class it as "cleaning" if it's a quick, five second Job. Also I think the winter affects some nails worse than others. I also used to get frustrated when clients shellac started chipping and had to make sure I wasn't doing anything wrong. But clients get upset even if they are to blame. So I've started using brisa lite smoothing gel which has helped massively. Really helps stops chipping on the slightly heavy handed clients

So you mean it maynot be me at fault here?I just thought it must be me since quite a few clienrs have come back with complaints after only a couple of days.
And I find that brisa lite smoothing gel doesnt cure properly and actually I see whole nail shellac just lifting off in one piece!so I stopped offering that:|

 

[perfectly polished]

How thick is your application? it's essential to have it "thin to win"! Having said that I find that on certain clients an extra layer of top coat helps, just makes then a little thicker and stronger.

Karaxxx

My application is very thin.its sheer on the first coat,and then opaque on second coat,so I am not applying too thick.
I may try a second coat if top coat.I just thought that less coats is better and the more coats you add,the more likely it is not to last.

 

[beautyxperts]

So you mean it maynot be me at fault here?I just thought it must be me since quite a few clienrs have come back with complaints after only a couple of days.

And I find that brisa lite smoothing gel doesnt cure properly and actually I see whole nail shellac just lifting off in one piece!so I stopped offering that:|

If you experience the smoothing gel "lifting off whole" then your application if Brisa lite smoothing is too thick. I use bio sculpture so when I started using brisa lite (prior to my master artist training with S2) I assumed it was like applying bio - how wrong I was! It's such a thin coating you hardly use any, after my training (which included the smoothing gel) it has shellac clients lasting up to 3 weeks.
Have you done the training for shellac? If not it will help you know how to prep & apply it correctly x

 

[nailcandymk]

So you mean it maynot be me at fault here?I just thought it must be me since quite a few clienrs have come back with complaints after only a couple of days.

And I find that brisa lite smoothing gel doesnt cure properly and actually I see whole nail shellac just lifting off in one piece!so I stopped offering that:|

I have only had brisa lite smoothing gel lift off one client, but she does seem to be unable to wear shellac (even when applied by other techs) for very long. The brisa lite has to be applied very very thin. U honestly use such a little bit of it. And mine always cures properly. There is a fingernailfixer video on YouTube on how to apply the smoothing gel. I would def try the smoothing gel again.

I think if u really take Ur time with Ur pep, ( and use cuticle away all the time - it just makes it so much easier to remove the cuticle and make sure when u deactivate it the water isn't too soapy because that can cause lifting too) and make sure u cap the free edge, then the chipping won't be down to u. Especially if u have clients where their shellac lasts for ages and there is no difference in Ur application when doing theirs, then it's not Ur fault.

Don't give up! Try the smoothing gel, two top coats if needed as mentioned by Kara and it should help massively!good luck x

 

[pure]

When your clients have chipping are their nails also peeling at the free edge?

Brisa Lite Smooting needs to be applied about as thin as you can get it, like a top coat.

 

[perfectly polished]

so i think i may have found the culprit to be the actual shellac colour in this case. the client remembers my doing her shellac wildfire on a previous application and she said the same think happened. is this possible? so i need to try it on myself to see?

 

[perfectly polished]

When your clients have chipping are their nails also peeling at the free edge?

Brisa Lite Smooting needs to be applied about as thin as you can get it, like a top coat.

its mostly just chipping at the free edge, not peeling.

 

[perfectly polished]

I have only had brisa lite smoothing gel lift off one client, but she does seem to be unable to wear shellac (even when applied by other techs) for very long. The brisa lite has to be applied very very thin. U honestly use such a little bit of it. And mine always cures properly. There is a fingernailfixer video on YouTube on how to apply the smoothing gel. I would def try the smoothing gel again.

I think if u really take Ur time with Ur pep, ( and use cuticle away all the time - it just makes it so much easier to remove the cuticle and make sure when u deactivate it the water isn't too soapy because that can cause lifting too) and make sure u cap the free edge, then the chipping won't be down to u. Especially if u have clients where their shellac lasts for ages and there is no difference in Ur application when doing theirs, then it's not Ur fault.

Don't give up! Try the smoothing gel, two top coats if needed as mentioned by Kara and it should help massively!good luck x

thanks for the support! i use cuticle away for a new client, but on subsequent visits, i find its enough to just do a careful dry pep, unless i see that more cuticle away is needed.
i think i may be using too much smoothing gel(avout 2-3 mm in length on the top of my brush per nail).i will try it thinner, and see.

 

[twid]

That's really interesting about smoothing gel, I like the OP gave up with it because the whole nail/Shellac was peeling off! I think I'll crack it out and try again but really really thinly this time.

Karaxxx

 

[perfectly polished]

That's really interesting about smoothing gel, I like the OP gave up with it because the whole nail/Shellac was peeling off! I think I'll crack it out and try again but really really thinly this time.

Karaxxx

Me too.good luck qnd keep us updated!

 

[southerntech]

I think it's clients misusing their nails. Star asking questions like... What did you do this weekend? Just in convo in general. If they think your pinning the problem on them then they get defensive and don't tell you how they stripped wall paper all day yesterday or cleaned out their garage. Once you find that out you could gently suggest that perhaps that's what happened to their nails and suggest gloves.

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[perfectly polished]

I think it's clients misusing their nails. Star asking questions like... What did you do this weekend? Just in convo in general. If they think your pinning the problem on them then they get defensive and don't tell you how they stripped wall paper all day yesterday or cleaned out their garage. Once you find that out you could gently suggest that perhaps that's what happened to their nails and suggest gloves.

Sent from my VS980 4G using SalonGeek mobile app

When I redid the client with wildfire today I did ask he what she gt up to overthe weekend,but aside for a small party fo her3 year old she said she was so careful she even wore gloves when washing up.and there wS nothing lefton her nails which is strange because I onpy appointment ed wildfire on her three dYs ago.she said the polish just came off realy easily with no resistAnce.