Color wrong

[Christine86]

I'm calling all experienced colorists here! I desperatly need your help!

My friend moved to my area so I'm doing her color now. She used to be blond but stopped the highlights a year ago. She switched to a medium auburn wich she liked, and she has maybe an inch or 2 of bleached at the tips. The 2 last times she went to her regular salon were she used to live she decided to go a little more reddish, and she didn't like it much, so went she got her roots done she requested they go back to her regular auburn wich was more copper. For what she knows, they did the roots with the regular recipe, then the lengths with 30 vol to try and lift the red. That didn't happen obviously, and her roots turned more like strawberry dark blonde. They then tried to cover everything with matrix sync color 7cc/and some light auburn which she can't remember the number. It turned a very dark weird auburn red purple.

This is where I took over. I tried a color remover which brought her hair to a dark golden blonde, with a very subtle orangy tone to the lengths. I rinced for a half hour to make sure it wouldn't cause a chemical reaction.

I used a mix of color sync 7cc again but with some 8 cg, with 10 vol. It turned a very dark auburn with copper/golden hues. She finds it way too dark, level 5-6. I did an olaplex treatment thinking all the processing sent her hair into a shock, and hoping it would go litghter. I suggested she uses a cheap shampoo with sulfates, and all that comes of is the copper tone, she's going browner and browner. We even tryed mixing powdr bleach with shampoo and it only stripped some more copper. She hates her hair. I did her a mask between treatments, she even uses olaplex n.3 at home to try and make them less porous. Her hair doesn't seem much damaged though, it only felt dryer avec the bleach shampoo but after olaplex it was back to life.

What do I do now? Please tell me there is a way to bring her back to her medium/light auburn?

 

[Reidebot]

do you have pictures? A few of us are international and/or use different colour houses

 

[AcidPerm]

Firstly, I'm assuming that you used a colour reducer rather than a stripper?
Sounds like there was quite a build up of colour in her mids and ends which wasn't completely removed by the reducer. If the hair is quite saturated with colour, you might need to use a reducer 2-3 times to remove the artificial colour molecules. After each application, just apply a low vol peroxide to a section to see if any remaining colour molecules reactivate and whether you need to redo the reducer or colour over it.

Also, after using a reducer, you should choose a formula that's 1-2 depths lighter than you want to be when recolouring. So if she wanted a 7, you'd need to recolour with a level 9 tint.

Finally, I wouldn't ever recommend using harsh detergent based shampoos to fade colour. All that's going to do is dry out the hair and is likely to cause any future colour to be uneven and patchy. She needs lots of moisturising treatments as Olaplex isn't a conditioner so it should always be used in conjunction with a good conditioning treatment.

 

[Christine86]

Thank you so much for your help! I will used redken elimin8 and test with peroxide.

I use redken chromatics mostly, and I'm not sure what "recipe" to go with if I have to go with a level 9. Any suggestions to get a nice light copper but not too orangy auburn? Do you know any other brand that offers nice light cr/c in 9, in demi permanent? I was told by fama but the person was talking about their permanent line and I'm thinking we should stay away from amonia. I'm trying to attach a picture of what she wants but the file is too large.

 

[Clareh]

Rusk do lovely Demi’s plus their permenants are quasi convertible - I use their chocolate blonde and a very wee bit of the red additive to add a coppery tone to the hair- I have blonde hair which I’ve darkened. I also love Maria nila colour refresh which is a semi but has been wonderful for adding depth and tones back into my blonde hair - I mix up the brown hazel and copper for a lovely coppery reflect and use the cocoa brown for a shadow root. Once the hair is at a good point, Perhaps go down that line as you could supply her with an at home semi colour treatment. For porosity issues I’ve been using Kenras equaliser, it’s been a god send along with olaplex