Colour doesn’t last

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Tracey xox

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Hi, sorry for the essay-
Looking to find out why my clients hair colour changes so much in between colour services and what I can do to stop that?
I have been doing my clients hair for 19 years, I’m the only one to ever colour her hair, apart from a box dye during lockdown,
She’s natural base 6 with about 50-60% gray in the parting and at the front but mostly brown at the back,
I have now tried LK 55/0 +66/0 with 6% all over to cover the gray and keep it close to her natural colour, as she was nervous about starting to colour her hair, this faded really quickly and lightened to about a 7, apart from her being outside most of the day I don’t know why her colour won’t last, she has a colour shampoo, I have used a protector spray the wholesaler recommended, I usually do 25 mins roots and water down the colour and apply to ends for 5 mins, sometimes don’t even do the ends, but it fades so badly I feel the ends and roots would look completely different colours!
I then couldn’t get LK so tried Lomé Paris 5HC+ 6HC 6%, that didn’t cover the gray!
In July we tried NXT 8/00+ 8/13 9% as during lockdown down she her hair had lightened so much so we matched the roots to the new lighter colour, did ends first to lighten them, then roots for 20 mins, this came out lovely, was really happy, but now she’s saying her roots look too dark and can’t afford to have it done every 6-8 weeks so she goes 12 weeks between colours, so wants to tone it down a bit closer to her own colour,
My plan was to use NXT 7/0 with 6% just it’s just a shade lighter,
Is there anything else I can use/do to help cover the grey, without the colour fading too quick and not looking too brassy! She doesn’t straighten her hair, hardly blowdried it and ties it up all day! But it’s changing 1-2 shades lighter inbetween each colour service!
Hope that all makes sense!
 
Is 20 mins the correct development time for the roots? It seems very short.

Also, I wouldn’t use the permanent on the mids and ends but mix up a batch of the same colour in a Demi. That should help it last longer.
 
Is 20 mins the correct development time for the roots? It seems very short.

Also, I wouldn’t use the permanent on the mids and ends but mix up a batch of the same colour in a Demi. That should help it last longer.
The total time was 30 minutes, so 20(roots)+10 (ends) for total colour time, if just doing roots alone would be full 30 minute development time,
I’m new to using NXT colours so will see if they do a demi, my wholesalers changed their brands so cannot get hold of ones I’ve used for years!
I trained some 20 years ago and have always know colours as permanent, semi or temporary, what is a Demi colour? Is this the same as a semi? I’m mobile so don’t work in a salon and recently returned to hair after having kids!
 
Hi,
A demi colour is stronger than a semi, but not permanent. I think they are generally ammonia free so don't fully penetrate the hair like a permanent colour does. I think they are approx 24 shampoos as opposed to semi's which are 8.
Wella colour touch are demi's, and I think L'Oréal discolour. I've never used NXT so don't have any knowledge of this brand.
 
*Dia Richesse
 
Hi nxt do do semi/Demi’s but you must use corresponding developer
7/00 would cover grey better
You could also try to presoften Grey roots with Neat creme 6% leave for 6-10 mins to help open cuticle then apply colour directly over it
I have found this works on very resistant hair then mix up corresponding Demi for mid lengths and ends
 
Hi nxt do do semi/Demi’s but you must use corresponding developer
7/00 would cover grey better
You could also try to presoften Grey roots with Neat creme 6% leave for 6-10 mins to help open cuticle then apply colour directly over it
I have found this works on very resistant hair then mix up corresponding Demi for mid lengths and ends
Thanks, I’ve never heard to do this before!
 
Hi nxt do do semi/Demi’s but you must use corresponding developer
7/00 would cover grey better
You could also try to presoften Grey roots with Neat creme 6% leave for 6-10 mins to help open cuticle then apply colour directly over it
I have found this works on very resistant hair then mix up corresponding Demi for mid lengths and ends
Hi,
A demi colour is stronger than a semi, but not permanent. I think they are generally ammonia free so don't fully penetrate the hair like a permanent colour does. I think they are approx 24 shampoos as opposed to semi's which are 8.
Wella colour touch are demi's, and I think L'Oréal discolour. I've never used NXT so don't have any knowledge of this brand.
thank you, we used to call colour touch a semi colour so think thats where my confusion comes! I used to use them in a salon years ago,
I think because I thought a permanent colour fades, figured a semi/Demi would do too? Will maybe try colour touch again, thanks
 

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