Colour help with Kadus professional colour

[Absie]

The only resource you'll ever need it this
View attachment 198634

I appreciate the reply but I don't see how a colour wheel helps with my problem?
I have a good understanding of the colour wheel/star, hence why I used the primary tones of Ash and Pearl to counter any warmth.

 

[Grace_Hair]

i'm attending an Olapex course very soon!
So i have realised i have no choice but to lighten now with bleach.
ok...i've accepted this...i will ensure the client understands when she arrives why its necessary.
i'm doing it for free...as it was my error so my job to correct.
This may sound like a silly question...but what would you tone with....?

I am thinking that if the ends are a level 8/9...i was considering using a level 9 and tone with pearl Ash
so 9/81
i've read that you tone with one shade lighter so you have time to watch the result develope...? And as im just depositing tone and not base...just a 3% developer?

If you tone with a shade lighter there won't be enough pigment to tone?

If you lift to an 8. Tone with an 8. If you lift to a 10. Tone to a 10.

And I don't get mixing a 10 and 7 together? I always got taught you can mix an 8 and 10 to make a 9. But no further than one up and one down. (I would assume that's because the tones aren't right like @cassies97 was saying?)

 

[cassies97]

I appreciate the reply but I don't see how a colour wheel helps with my problem?
I have a good understanding of the colour wheel/star, hence why I used the primary tones of Ash and Pearl to counter any warmth.

Clearly not as you used ash and violet for lifting from a 6 to an 8.

The lightening curve tells us that as we lift from a 6 to an 8 we see orange, orange yellow, and yellow. We need to counteract all of these tones.

/8 to counteract the orange.
/6 to counteract the yellow (which there won't be much of because pheomelanin is more resistant to oxidation so it'll be an orangish 8 rather than a yellow 8 unless using bleach or highlift.

So your perfect formula would be 8/86 which we can make by used 8/81 and 0/65 for the violet (only a small amount) and i'd also add extra 0/81 to cut out any warmth.

P.s ash doesn't neutralise anything it only softens/subdues.

 

[CatherineRose]

I had my hair bleached at work and then put a 10/1 toner on. It hardly did anything to my hair as it was too light. I should have put an 8/1 or 9/1 on.

If you want it a level 8 then tone with an 8 etc. I don't understand why you use higher colours. Like everyone else has said re the colouring, if your colouring hair to a level 8 then put a level 8 on. I read this post yesterday and I'm still baffled that that's what you got taught. Just seems so strange.

Good luck with her hair though, hope it turns out right this time

 

[Absie]

Clearly not as you used ash and violet for lifting from a 6 to an 8.

The lightening curve tells us that as we lift from a 6 to an 8 we see orange, orange yellow, and yellow. We need to counteract all of these tones.

/8 to counteract the orange.
/6 to counteract the yellow (which there won't be much of because pheomelanin is more resistant to oxidation so it'll be an orangish 8 rather than a yellow 8 unless using bleach or highlift.

So your perfect formula would be 8/86 which we can make by used 8/81 and 0/65 for the violet (only a small amount) and i'd also add extra 0/81 to cut out any warmth.

P.s ash doesn't neutralise anything it only softens/subdues.

Thanks

 

[cassies97]

Thanks

Do you understand now?

 

[Absie]

Do you understand now?

Im starting to
The combination of 7 and 10 is just too far apart to mix.
The /16 major Ash and minor violet mixed with /0 wasn't enough to counter the orangy/yellows undertones resulting from lightening.
I needed some /8 pearl in there as well.
And I needed to use 12% developer on the 10/8 as the level difference was too great for 9%
I really wish I had more info on tones though
Like knowing what timer to use in the absence of Wella Perfecton.
I really wanted create a toner with /88 and /00 and post mix treatment... But I'm staying well away from that now and toning with a 10/81 after I bleach.
Which I'm hoping is the right thing to do!

 

[cassies97]

Im starting to
The combination of 7 and 10 is just too far apart to mix.
The /16 major Ash and minor violet mixed with /0 wasn't enough to counter the orangy/yellows undertones resulting from lightening.
I needed some /8 pearl in there as well.
And I needed to use 12% developer on the 10/8 as the level difference was too great for 9%
I really wish I had more info on tones though
Like knowing what timer to use in the absence of Wella Perfecton.
I really wanted create a toner with /88 and /00 and post mix treatment... But I'm staying well away from that now and toning with a 10/81 after I bleach.
Which I'm hoping is the right thing to do!

To achieve the 10 in the ends from a 6 you needed bleach in the first place.

Nooo don't tone with 10/81 unless you want green. Remember the colour star!

 

[Absie]

To achieve the 10 in the ends from a 6 you needed bleach in the first place.

Nooo don't tone with 10/81 unless you want green. Remember the colour star!

Ok
I'm totally lost

Her hair will be lightened with bleach to a level 10 on the ends
So the red and orange pigments have gone, and a little yellow but not much left

So I'm using a toner to take away the yellow and make it a nice cool blonde

Hence the pearl ash

I could use a 10/89 pearl cendre
But honestly I'm not sure what cendre is. I've been told It has hints of pink! Which is therefore warm and it cool.

What am I missing...?

 

[Daniel Williams]

pink?! Cendre by definition is a particular shade of ash-blonde, and in my opinion it's an almost grey tone, if you use cendre I'm sure it'll make the end result look darker than you're necessarily trying to achieve.

 

[cassies97]

Ok
I'm totally lost

Her hair will be lightened with bleach to a level 10 on the ends
So the red and orange pigments have gone, and a little yellow but not much left

So I'm using a toner to take away the yellow and make it a nice cool blonde

Hence the pearl ash

I could use a 10/89 pearl cendre
But honestly I'm not sure what cendre is. I've been told It has hints of pink! Which is therefore warm and it cool.

What am I missing...?

Why are you trying to neutralise yellow with blue? You need violet!

 

[cassies97]

pink?! Cendre by definition is a particular shade of ash-blonde, and in my opinion it's an almost grey tone, if you use cendre I'm sure it'll make the end result look darker than you're necessarily trying to achieve.

No. Cendre does in fact a rosey hue. Colours with violet and cendre in tend to look very dusky pink. I'm guessing you're not a wella user?

 

[Daniel Williams]

Why are you trying to neutralise yellow with blue? You need violet!

indeed, blue neutralises/cancels out orange, NOT yellow, if you use blue to neutralise the hair it's going to look khaki/green ash... NOT CUTE.

 

[Daniel Williams]

No. Cendre does in fact a rosey hue. Colours with violet and cendre in tend to look very dusky pink. I'm guessing you're not a wella user?

oh no i don't use Wella, really? I didn't know Cendre had a pink tinge haha, is that with every colour line or just Wella because I never knew that!!

 

[cassies97]

oh no i don't use Wella, really? I didn't know Cendre had a pink tinge haha, is that with every colour line or just Wella because I never knew that!!

Yeah their soft ash cendre is a mixture of blue-violet ash and it creates a lovely minky colour. Its my favourite tone.

No just wella that is.

 

[Daniel Williams]

Yeah their soft ash cendre is a mixture of blue-violet ash and it creates a lovely minky colour. Its my favourite tone.

No just wella that is.

Ok, so just Wella does that xx that sounds pretty!!

 

[Absie]

pink?! Cendre by definition is a particular shade of ash-blonde, and in my opinion it's an almost grey tone, if you use cendre I'm sure it'll make the end result look darker than you're necessarily trying to achieve.

Like I said
I'm not sure

I just know in Wella/Kadus it's /9

 

[Absie]

Why are you trying to neutralise yellow with blue? You need violet!

There isn't a violet
So I figure pearl is the closest

 

[Absie]

indeed, blue neutralises/cancels out orange, NOT yellow, if you use blue to neutralise the hair it's going to look khaki/green ash... NOT CUTE.

But it won't be yellow guys
It will just have a warm glow after bleach
Tell me what Kadus colour you would use as a toner please......!

 

[cassies97]

There isn't a violet
So I figure pearl is the closest

/6 is violet!