Confused about colour....

[kimi1101]

i had a client in today who had natural base of a 4, but she gets an all over tint. thru the top it looked like between a 7 and an 8, with a bit of warmth, but in the underneath (which was where i was always taught to look for the best match to the previous colour) looked like defo a base 7, still kinda warm. she said that she used to have a few highlights thru the top and that was why it was a bit lighter. So i didn't really know what to do...she said she didnt wanna go darker but wanted the colour all combed thru, and she didn't like the "copper" colour she felt she had. so i mixed a half 7/1, a quater 7/17 and a quarter 8/1 cos i was worried it would be too dark on the top with just 7 shades, and used 9%. But it came out kinda dark...it matched up ok on the roots at the top but toned down a lot the highlighty bits (which looked like betwen a 7 and 8 before) and the regrowth area i tinted thru the back looked darker than the previously coloured bits. Should i have done a lighter colour or a 12% instead of 9%?? I wasn't really given much training on using higher lift peroxides on full head tints...used to just get told to put a tint of natural shade then bleach highlights...

felt pretty stupid

Hope you can help and thanks v much in advance

 

[liana kay]

dont feel stupid i dont think manufacturer recommend using 12% on the scalp anymore. And you just wouldnt get the lift with 9% , maybe 2 shades ,3 on finer hair. did she do it herself before , because home kits are much stronger( i guess its ok legally if you burn your head) or id hazard a guess that otherwise a previous salon may have put a hi-lift on with 9% which would explain the warmth which you would expect from such dark hair. i have used 12% even 18% on my scalp before at college, when it was 18% that wasnt advised and the 12%recommended, maybe the colours lift better now so the high strength isnt needed.
There is a 10.5 % i dont know whether you can use this on the scalp , but you will still get the warmth coming through.
Anyhow , if she comes back scatter some hi-lites for free-and explain that you have to follow the recommended advise.

 

[-sophisticutz-]

12% is fine to use on the scalp, just do a sensitivity test first. Then reason it went to dark on the ends is because you combed it through. It would have been better just to do the roots. I would do this only if they are not too long from the previous hi-lights (you don't want a band). You were in a tricky situation with the different colours present in the hair, so don't be to hard on yourself! The client did ask you after all to comb the colour through.

As the hair is probably quite porous from the previous hi-lights the dark will almost certainly life out after a few shampoos. :green:

 

[kimi1101]

The only time i have ever used 12% on the scalp has been with high lift shades. i know you can do it, i was just scared it was gonna look wrong...

thought that the 9% would lift it enough...but I think half of it was that it was combed thru...although she asked for it. least I know now and I know it will lift up a bit over the next fortnight or so.
Thanks for your help...feeling a lot better about it.

Guess we all need to learn...and its not the worst mistake to make.

xx