Covering white hair

[kel79]

Hi all... I have a lady who is 100% white and I've been using kp 99/0 6% on her roots and just a few darker one put through to break it up. Well the problem is she has been saying the 99/0 is too dark and a bit yellow looking lately so said she wanted a 10 which I explained would do nothing but she insisted anyway just to see what it would look like. Well 3 weeks later texts to say I was right it hasn't covered. I'm stumped really as you can't go any lighter than a 9 or it won't cover 😳

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

Wow! 99/0 is so not dark! Is your clients hair resistant?

 

[kel79]

I think it's a lovely colour but she just has a thing about her age and not wanting a brassy blonde, and yes it is.

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

Why don't you do highlights and flood in-between with the 99/0? That'll give the illusion of lightness. White hair still contains keratin so with bleach you'll get a pale yellow to tone. Can't see any other way around that! Hope that helps.

 

[caro235]

I thought white hair had no pigment and volume not be bleached?

 

[cassies97]

I thought white hair had no pigment and volume not be bleached?

It still contains keratin which is yellow in colour so when you bleach white hair you expose this which makes the hair appear yellow.

 

[hairloverr]

I also have a client that is 100% white I use Kp on roots and every now and again we do highlights bleach and 3% and some lowlight to break up looks beautiful I don't even tone the highlights after x

 

[xchellebellex]

I have this problem too, my client has short hair like Frankie from the Saturdays, she has white/grey (salt n pepper) at the back section where it is short and around her front hairline however the rest (crown and top section) is a base 7. She hates it looking warm.

I've been using 99/0 + 20vol around the hairline and back and the top 10/8 + 20vol.

Coverage of the 99/0 was ok at first but now I'm struggling to cover, even after previously reapplying colour to the 99/0 section with 99/0 and 4% and also tried pre softening. Last time I used 99/0 + a spot of 9/38 but she said it was too golden in some areas.

Any advice is appreciated

 

[tsparker78]

Mix the 99/ with wella 6% and develop 60 minutes. If that doesn't work, you'll have to drop.down a shade.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using SalonGeek mobile app

 

[Sugarplumfaery]

Level 8 tends to be where you get the coverage. 9 doesn't have enough pigments. You could drop to a level 8 perhaps and only use special mix as if using the double bases. Anything else will dilute your double base.

 

[xchellebellex]

Thanks guys I'll give them a try 😊

 

[Mariwanas]

U can try 30vol, I do that I have many 100%grey

 

[cassies97]

U can try 30vol, I do that I have many 100%grey

Why 9%? You're covering not lifting.

 

[Mariwanas]

I know, but because grey is very resistant it may not open the cuticle enough for color to be deposited. Maybe that's why it was not covering it, u always can try, but I find that grey is very tricky to color and there is not enough education either

 

[Mariwanas]

And if I use double natural I get khaki colour, so I need to glaze it after with a warm tone like RB mix

 

[cassies97]

And if I use double natural I get khaki colour, so I need to glaze it after with a warm tone like RB mix

XX/0's?

 

[Mariwanas]

Just one more thing, u need to go one level lighter to desired lev as its doubled pigment the colour turns up looking 1 lev darker, when I use lev 9/NN or 99/0 I get lev 8 khaki colour, so I prefer to use level 10/NN to be honest then I get lev 9

 

[cassies97]

I know, but because grey is very resistant it may not open the cuticle enough for color to be deposited. Maybe that's why it was not covering it, u always can try, but I find that grey is very tricky to color and there is not enough education either

If it's resistant you can presoften or colour shock.

 

[cassies97]

Just one more thing, u need to go one level lighter to desired lev as its doubled pigment the colour turns up looking 1 lev darker, when I use lev 9/NN or 99/0 I get lev 8 khaki colour, so I prefer to use level 10/NN to be honest then I get lev 9

Because double bases are made resistant white, that's why they're darker on the colour chart, they won't go darker on resistant. But will go darker on hair that's not resistant but they're not really meant for that.

 

[Mariwanas]

Redken shade EQ 9RB equaliser is brilliant!