General questions re: UV cured colour coats, answered

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geeg

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So many people ask the same questions re UV-cured colour coats that I thought it might save some of the tedium for the rest of us (seeing the same questions again and again) if they were all answered in one thread.
Most of the following questions come from those who are quite honestly inexperienced in using UV cured products, inexperienced at manicures and removing cuticle and who do not know how to do a professional polish job.

Shrinking from the free edge after curing --- This is not shrinkage. UV-cured products do not shrink once cured. What appears to be shrinkage is in fact just wear and tear along the sharp free edge of the nails.
SOLUTION: Keep the nails shorter on the nails that continually show signs of wear, and teach clients how to do a bit of home maintenance by showing them how to gently file along the free edge to remove any signs of naked nail.

Product Shrinking back before curing - this is a sign that you have applied the product too thickly at the free edge of the nails.
SOLUTION: Go over the nails again before curing with the brush, remove any excess product and seal as you go to remove any excess product.

Chipping ...
SOLUTION: Make sure you have used your product on a client with healthy natural nails and that they do not let them get too long. The longer the free edge, the older it is and the drier it is and the more prone to chipping it is.

Peeling ...
SOLUTION: Make sure your application is perfect and not too thick. If peeling from the eponychium then the product has not been applied properly and you have left the client a 'fat edge' to pick at. If peeling from the free edge, make sure you have sealed properly at the start and that the nails are healthy and not thin and bendy. Clients need to follow appropriate after care and return in a timely manner for a new manicure.

Bubbles under the UV cured colour coat ... What you see is not bubbles. Bumps are caused by leaving material on the surface of the nail .. usually un- removed cuticle.
SOLUTION: Do your preparation meticulously and make sure the surface of the nail is clean and dry before applying your base coat. If you notice any bumps under your first coat of colour after curing, then remove them by very gently filing with a high grit file or buffer and then apply your second coat of colour etc ... no bumps.

Clients not going the distance of 2 weeks plus with their manicure ...
SOLUTION: Clients are clients; they are all different. Clients have different life styles and some are more dedicated to following good aftercare than others. Stop beating yourself up about it and make them take responsibility for their manicure after they have left you. Try 2 top Coats if a client is a particularly heavy-handed one.

Picking and peeling of the manicure ... As above.
SOLUTION: Make clients responsible by explaining that damage is due to their bad habit.

Spots of dehydration on the nail plate after long wear of UV colour coats ...
SOLUTIONS: no PICKING; correct and gentle removal by a professional (no scraping off of colour that is still adhered to the plate); regular use of a moisturiser such as Solar Oil daily; NO natural nail buffing ever; Correct use of a professional remover.

Any more peeps ???'s and you can post them here and save the rest of us allot of yawns. Hope this has helped. It matters not if you use Shellac or any of the numerous gels .... the rules are the same.
 
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Thank you Geeg this thread is really helpful. 😀x
 
This needs to become a sticky post at the top:)
 
Always comes down to EDUCATION. Should always learn properly and not assume you can do it by watching a DVD or leaflet.
 
- Why does some color come off on my wipe when removing the inhibition layer in the end? This is because you will not have covered the entire color coat with top coat.
 
Why is there colour on my clear top coat brush?

Lots may mean the colour is not cured properly. Check bulbs, check all of the nail is exposed to light (can anyone add anything here?)

Some colours may transfer a small amount onto your top coat brush. Almost like the inhibition layer of the colour. (I notice it more with reds and blues/turquoise).

Geeg can you paraphrase this better or correct where Im wrong? :) I've noticed this question come up a lot too.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using SalonGeek
 
Which is the best UV Polish?

We all have our favorites. Do your research. You can read through loads of threads on here asking this question. There are groups you can join on Salon Geek for the most popular brands.

The best way to decided which brand to go for is to attend one of the many trade shows with naked nails. You can have a different nail done in each brand and each time it will be applied by an expert using the correct equipment. You can then see yourself over the next couple of weeks how each one wears. After two weeks you can have a go at removing each brand yourself to help with your decision.

Once you have made your decision, attend the relevant course and buy the correct equipment. It may seem a long winded way of doing things, but it is a big investment which you can only make properly with knowledge.
 
There are no short cuts in becoming good at what we do. Invest in good full nail education good practice but never feel silly to ask daft questions.
 
To get a crisp clean line when doing a French or nail art with gel polish we dry brush first. Can't comment on Shellac :)
 
To get a crisp clean line when doing a French or nail art with gel polish we dry brush first. Can't comment on Shellac :)

You do not have to 'dry brush' when using Shellac. :green:
 
Why is there colour on my clear top coat brush?

Lots may mean the colour is not cured properly. Check bulbs, check all of the nail is exposed to light (can anyone add anything here?) 'Float' your layers on with a feather light touch. Do not drag your brush on the surface. If the hairs of your brush are bending, then you are stroking too hard and at the wrong angle ... your brush should be as parallel to the nail surface as it can be.

Some colours may transfer a small amount onto your top coat brush. Almost like the inhibition layer of the colour. (I notice it more with reds and blues/turquoise). It is from the inhibition layer. :green:

Geeg can you paraphrase this better or correct where Im wrong? :) I've noticed this question come up a lot too.

You did a great job all by yourself! x :hug:
 
You do not have to 'dry brush' when using Shellac. :green:

Hehe so so lucky it is one of my pet hates with Gel polish! Xx
 
I have never dry brushed when doing the french with Gelish. I have always done my French exactly the same way as with Shellac.

To tidy a smile line, wipe your dry flat gel brush on a pad dampened with D-Sperse, then dry it off before using to tidy your line if required.

If you are having some teething problems with removal, as well as being mindful not to apply your coats thickly, check your nails for excess base coat before curing and remove any excess by going over with your wiped base coat brush.

If you are seeing traces of colour on your pad after wiping the inhibition layer off of the cured topcoat you need to check your topcoat application. Leave the tiniest margin around the nail to be able to encapsulate everything with your topcoat.
 
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The mods have now 'stuck' this post ... Lets hop people bother to look at it. Please, all, remember to copy and paste the link to this thread where they ask these questions in other posts. Thanks.
 
Thank you so much for taking the time. I feel confident in my knowledge of all of the above now but I definitely feel some printing coming on! (Won't hurt to have it easy to hand for quick reference!)

Thank you :) x
 
There are no short cuts in becoming good at what we do. Invest in good full nail education good practice but never feel silly to ask daft questions.

Totally agree! Make sure you've had great training,but don't want to be made to feel bad for asking questions!Thats what makes you better as you get other people's advice/help (better than not asking and getting it wrong) and is practically the whole point of salon geek ;) x

Sent from my GT-I9300 using SalonGeek
 
I have had many more than a few people tell me that they have been told that the inhibition layer needs to be on the top of the cured product or the next layer will not stick!
ANSWER: The above is completely inaccurate information. The inhibition layer (the thin sticky layer of uncured product left on the top of the product after curing) is the result of Oxygen in the air 'inhibiting' the top of the product from curing; it can be left in place or removed and neither the following layer nor its adhesion will be affected.

People who refer to this thin uncured layer of gel as the 'dispersion layer' are using incorrect terminology. A dispersion layer is something quite different.
 
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do i have to use the CND lamp to cure Shellac?- yes.

can i cure Shellac with my LED lamp?-no

can i use my 36watt lamp that i bought off ebay to cure my shellac/gelish?- no, it is not advisable to purchase your professional products from ebay as the authenticity or quality cannot be guaranteed.


you should purchase and use a complete system including the recommended lamp for that system from an authorized distributor from whom you will also get any help and support that you may need.
 
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Hi
I found this really interesting and great tips.

you said about colours bubbling and it's something on the surface, I tend to only get "bubbles" when I use cream puff shellac, no other colours just that one. I know it can come out quite thick so I do make sure that I keep it thin but it still bubbles up on some nails.

Any ideas / tips?

Thanks

Charl
 
Hi
I found this really interesting and great tips.

you said about colours bubbling and it's something on the surface, I tend to only get "bubbles" when I use cream puff shellac, no other colours just that one. I know it can come out quite thick so I do make sure that I keep it thin but it still bubbles up on some nails.

Any ideas / tips?

Thanks

Charl

It is not bubbling ... you may have bits of contamination in your bottle. Shellac really does not bubble .. I have never seen that happen ever.
 

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