Grey coverage and lightening Wella

[Madger]

I have a question regarding Wella get coverage client and just want opinions on how to approach. Client uses 99/0 30 vol. only as a root touch up, to cover greys. Front portion of head has a nice blend of level nine, back of head looks to be a level 8 brass. I'd like to make her a clean level nine 1/2 and tone all over with 9/16.
Should I use 99/0 at the front portion, illumina 9/0 + {??} + 40 vol on the back, while highlighting the brass out? Then tone all over? Any help would be appreciated greatly

 

[ronray]

I have a question regarding Wella get coverage client and just want opinions on how to approach. Client uses 99/0 30 vol. only as a root touch up, to cover greys. Front portion of head has a nice blend of level nine, back of head looks to be a level 8 brass. I'd like to make her a clean level nine 1/2 and tone all over with 9/16.
Should I use 99/0 at the front portion, illumina 9/0 + {??} + 40 vol on the back, while highlighting the brass out? Then tone all over? Any help would be appreciated greatly

I'd just use 9/1+12% on darker areas, and then use 99/0 on grey bits, and then see if you have to tone? By using just a 9/0 you adding yellow before you even start lifting the hair which is inevitably going to leave the hair brassy
Hope this helps

 

[Madger]

I'd just use 9/1+12% on darker areas, and then use 99/0 on grey bits, and then see if you have to tone? By using just a 9/0 you adding yellow before you even start lifting the hair which is inevitably going to leave the hair brassy
Hope this helps

thanks for the reply, what about illumina 9/60 at the root?

 

[Kezzzziiii]

thanks for the reply, what about illumina 9/60 at the root?

Hi I'm in a similar situation as you were, I was just wondering what you ended up doing. I'm doing my mums hers is the same as your pic but no brown just grey roots. I was going to colour her hair with 9/16, I don't want it go purple though. She likes the dark underneath.

 

[Art55]

Hi I'm in a similar situation as you were, I was just wondering what you ended up doing. I'm doing my mums hers is the same as your pic but no brown just grey roots. I was going to colour her hair with 9/16, I don't want it go purple though. She likes the dark underneath.

I have just used 9/16 on white roots.....lovely colour and no purple but not 100% coverage on the grey........maybe I should of used a base.

 

[Kezzzziiii]

I have used it as a toner but not a colour, I used 9:0 in the end and some others similar as foils to break the colours up, she was happy with it, but I think the. Roots look a bit warm still

 

[user 153638]

I'd just use 9/1+12% on darker areas, and then use 99/0 on grey bits, and then see if you have to tone? By using just a 9/0 you adding yellow before you even start lifting the hair which is inevitably going to leave the hair brassy
Hope this helps

Hi,
I realise this is an older thread but it is very helpful!

Instead of 99/0+9% for the grey bits, could they have used 9/01+9%? I have not yet tried 9/01 so was wondering what difference it might make in this situation. Is the 99/0 preferred because it has more pigment so it covers more effectively?

Thank you and Happy New Year x

 

[ronray]

Hi,
I realise this is an older thread but it is very helpful!

Instead of 99/0+9% for the grey bits, could they have used 9/01+9%? I have not yet tried 9/01 so was wondering what difference it might make in this situation. Is the 99/0 preferred because it has more pigment so it covers more effectively?

Thank you and Happy New Year x

9/01 with 9% wouldn't give you even coverage. Because the starting bases between the naturally pigmented hair and the whiter areas are completely different.
Remember our conversation on this thread?
https://www.salongeek.com/threads/h...-question-about-grey-coverage-formula.338505/

 

[user 153638]

My initial thought was 6% is the right strength for the grey bits, but the original poster starts by saying their client uses 99/0+30 vol for the front bits which are grey. Then the thread continues about changing the formula for the back to 99/1+40 vol while keeping the front 99/0.

I assumed this meant to keep using the 99/0+30 vol as the client had been doing. I did wonder about that, but I suppose I was hoping there is an exception to the maximum 20 vol for grey coverage rule with the 99/0 due to the double pigment.

But that certainly does not explain why my next thought was to consider if 9/01 could be used that way.

*insert embarrassment emoji*

Thank god I have a Wella colour course coming up in the spring. It seems like I need a reading comprehension course too!

 

[ronray]

My initial thought was 6% is the right strength for the grey bits, but the original poster starts by saying their client uses 99/0+30 vol for the front bits which are grey. Then the thread continues about changing the formula for the back to 99/1+40 vol while keeping the front 99/0.

I assumed this meant to keep using the 99/0+30 vol as the client had been doing. I did wonder about that, but I suppose I was hoping there is an exception to the maximum 20 vol for grey coverage rule with the 99/0 due to the double pigment.

But that certainly does not explain why my next thought was to consider if 9/01 could be used that way.

*insert embarrassment emoji*

Thank god I have a Wella colour course coming up in the spring. It seems like I need a reading comprehension course too!

Yes that's right so normally you'd use base and double base shades with 20vol not 30vol.
99/0 would give the best coverage because of the double pigment - sometimes if you have extremely difficult hair to cover (usually poker straight, sleek hair) then you'd need to up the developer strength.

There's no need to be embarrassed, 9/01 wouldn't necessarily be a bad choice. 9/01 would offer grey coverage and a cooler tone. But it won't even out the base colour. It would show up lighter and cooler on the white hairs and darker and warmer on the darker hair.
I'm happy to hear your thoughts on why you suggested 9/01 and discuss it? It's all a learning curve. Knowledge is power

 

[ronray]

My initial thought was 6% is the right strength for the grey bits, but the original poster starts by saying their client uses 99/0+30 vol for the front bits which are grey. Then the thread continues about changing the formula for the back to 99/1+40 vol while keeping the front 99/0.

I assumed this meant to keep using the 99/0+30 vol as the client had been doing. I did wonder about that, but I suppose I was hoping there is an exception to the maximum 20 vol for grey coverage rule with the 99/0 due to the double pigment.

But that certainly does not explain why my next thought was to consider if 9/01 could be used that way.

*insert embarrassment emoji*

Thank god I have a Wella colour course coming up in the spring. It seems like I need a reading comprehension course too!

Just to clarify I know the highlift thread isn't exactly the same scenario. But I was referring to treating the different areas separately when formulating.

 

[user 153638]

.

 

[user 153638]

Just to clarify I know the highlift thread isn't exactly the same scenario. But I was referring to treating the different areas separately when formulating.

I definitely got that it was to illustrate the different areas needing separate treatment, so it was helpful that you reposted it. Thank you!

 

[Redamber]

I'd just use 9/1+12% on darker areas, and then use 99/0 on grey bits, and then see if you have to tone? By using just a 9/0 you adding yellow before you even start lifting the hair which is inevitably going to leave the hair brassy
Hope this helps

Hi, I really hope you don’t mind me asking. I personally have no training but have had my hair done properly then because of a disability I have my sister applies my colour at the roots, getting to a shop wouldn’t be possible. I have gone lighter with age and was using wella Koleston 99/0 with 1 to 1 6% 20 volume. This has over time become very brassy and I wanted to tone down the brass and have it slightly lighter blonde but still with a little warmth if possible. My hairdresser used 9/0 and 9/1 watered down to take away the brassiness (which is great) but left 9/1 on the roots which have gone a light brown colour, she doesn‘t seem to know why but when I look at the colour chart the 9/1 is a light brown. I was wondering if a mistake had been made and she’d intended to use the 9/01. My hair is quite grey but hasn’t had any problems so far with coverage. Not being able to get anywhere for advice is very difficult. As you can tell I am completely out of my depths and my hairdresser is unsure of what I should do. Do you think 9/01 with 6% 20 volume would give me a less brassy version of the original 99/0? I hope this makes sense and would appreciate any advice you could possibly give (please make it as easy as possible). Thank you in advance for any advice you can give.

 

[ronray]

Hi, I really hope you don’t mind me asking. I personally have no training but have had my hair done properly then because of a disability I have my sister applies my colour at the roots, getting to a shop wouldn’t be possible. I have gone lighter with age and was using wella Koleston 99/0 with 1 to 1 6% 20 volume. This has over time become very brassy and I wanted to tone down the brass and have it slightly lighter blonde but still with a little warmth if possible. My hairdresser used 9/0 and 9/1 watered down to take away the brassiness (which is great) but left 9/1 on the roots which have gone a light brown colour, she doesn‘t seem to know why but when I look at the colour chart the 9/1 is a light brown. I was wondering if a mistake had been made and she’d intended to use the 9/01. My hair is quite grey but hasn’t had any problems so far with coverage. Not being able to get anywhere for advice is very difficult. As you can tell I am completely out of my depths and my hairdresser is unsure of what I should do. Do you think 9/01 with 6% 20 volume would give me a less brassy version of the original 99/0? I hope this makes sense and would appreciate any advice you could possibly give (please make it as easy as possible). Thank you in advance for any advice you can give.

To start with I'd use a deep cleansing shampoo on it a few times. This will remove any build up of tone you have on your hair. ( Tone build up can leave the hair appear darker and flat looking)
9/1 is a very light ash blonde. So technically the first number i.e 9 is how dark it is, what comes after the / is the tone.
So your hairdresser technically hasn't made your hair darker , but what she has done is changed the tone.
Ash / cooler tones appear darker than warm or neutral tones. Because cooler tones absorb light. And doesn't reflect it.
The deep cleansing shampoo will help buff the hair surface slightly and hopefully pull a little bit of that ash tone out, so your hair will seem lighter. The problem you have is a little tricky because if you applied a different colour to your roots next time you will have bands of colour.
What I would have done personally is not use the 9/1 and mix in some 10/96 + 8/96. The reason for this is that on a level 9 the underlying warmth a gold. The tone /96 (centre violet) neutralises the gold and will leave you with a more natural light blonde. By using ash your hairdresser has layed a different tone over the top of your warmth and it's flattened it out so it appears darker. I hope this makes sense.

 

[Redamber]

To start with I'd use a deep cleansing shampoo on it a few times. This will remove any build up of tone you have on your hair. ( Tone build up can leave the hair appear darker and flat looking)
9/1 is a very light ash blonde. So technically the first number i.e 9 is how dark it is, what comes after the / is the tone.
So your hairdresser technically hasn't made your hair darker , but what she has done is changed the tone.
Ash / cooler tones appear darker than warm or neutral tones. Because cooler tones absorb light. And doesn't reflect it.
The deep cleansing shampoo will help buff the hair surface slightly and hopefully pull a little bit of that ash tone out, so your hair will seem lighter. The problem you have is a little tricky because if you applied a different colour to your roots next time you will have bands of colour.
What I would have done personally is not use the 9/1 and mix in some 10/96 + 8/96. The reason for this is that on a level 9 the underlying warmth a gold. The tone /96 (centre violet) neutralises the gold and will leave you with a more natural light blonde. By using ash your hairdresser has layed a different tone over the top of your warmth and it's flattened it out so it appears darker. I hope this makes sense.

I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to reply. I think she was along the lines that I’ve always had some natural reds in my hair (unaware of until dying). I am with you on why I now have the band and the colour difference. I have a sensitive scalp so shampoo switches are not an option but I have been using a regular treatment on my hair to remove the brassiness which seemed to stop having an effect thus making me wanting to go that but lighter/brighter. I will upload a photo, I hope you can delete it afterwards because I’m bed bound and was messing about to show my sister the ash that had appeared at my roots it is the truest representation of my colour on a photo with the exception of some small lighter strips going through where I’m quite white which I do like, apologies for the photo. If I can just clarify one last thing and thank you for your patience. I have some 9/01 remaining, I’m assuming discard this and go with the 10/96 + 8/96, can I please check would this be a 50/50 mix? I am aware I am unfortunately going to have bands which hopefully one day I may be able to get sorted professionally but until then I also can’t go back to the original 99/0 as the brassiness I had in that has now changed. So have to make the best choice I can now, hopefully ending up with the ash alone being the only noticeable band . I know, it’s not ideal. Hopefully this will let me know where to go especially as I have to do it very shortly. Thank you again very much for taking the time to respond it is very much appreciated.

 

[Redamber]

I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to reply. I think she was along the lines that I’ve always had some natural reds in my hair (unaware of until dying). I am with you on why I now have the band and the colour difference. I have a sensitive scalp so shampoo switches are not an option but I have been using a regular treatment on my hair to remove the brassiness which seemed to stop having an effect thus making me wanting to go that but lighter/brighter. I will upload a photo, I hope you can delete it afterwards because I’m bed bound and was messing about to show my sister the ash that had appeared at my roots it is the truest representation of my colour on a photo with the exception of some small lighter strips going through where I’m quite white which I do like, apologies for the photo. If I can just clarify one last thing and thank you for your patience. I have some 9/01 remaining, I’m assuming discard this and go with the 10/96 + 8/96, can I please check would this be a 50/50 mix? I am aware I am unfortunately going to have bands which hopefully one day I may be able to get sorted professionally but until then I also can’t go back to the original 99/0 as the brassiness I had in that has now changed. So have to make the best choice I can now, hopefully ending up with the ash alone being the only noticeable band . I know, it’s not ideal. Hopefully this will let me know where to go especially as I have to do it very shortly. Thank you again very much for taking the time to respond it is very much appreciated.View attachment 213645

Sorry, I forgot to say my skin colour needs a warm tone which is why the hairdresser suggested I try the 9/01 (hoping for a toned down version of 99/0, less brassy and more as in the image above) which I haven‘t used yet as I really wanted to check and get some guidance before applying it rather than just hoping. My length is past my shoulders, the image does show the colour as it is by length and I’ve never ran it through at all as I like how it lightens. I hope this makes sense to you. Thank you again.

 

[ronray]

Sorry, I forgot to say my skin colour needs a warm tone which is why the hairdresser suggested I try the 9/01 (hoping for a toned down version of 99/0, less brassy and more as in the image above) which I haven‘t used yet as I really wanted to check and get some guidance before applying it rather than just hoping. My length is past my shoulders, the image does show the colour as it is by length and I’ve never ran it through at all as I like how it lightens. I hope this makes sense to you. Thank you again.

After seeing the photo. I'm leaning more towards a 2 step process. But I'm not sure how difficult that might be?
Anything you apply over that darker band or darker ends won't shift the colour only make it darker. Ideally you'd need to lift the banding first. But as a quick fix I'd maybe look at using 9/0 + 10/96 for now with 6%

 

[Redamber]

Thank you. Can I just confirm, I’m sorry if I’m testing your patience. The quick fix of 9/0 + 10/96 for now with 6% I’m presuming that’s for new growth not the dark band or both? I know I will have to have it lightened and corrected at some point but anything to tide me over is fantastic. Can I also just check this new colour is what you would suggest to carry on with, closest matching my existing colour at the top and is this a 50/50 mix of the colours? Again thank you ever so much for your time, knowledge and patience.

 

[ronray]

Thank you. Can I just confirm, I’m sorry if I’m testing your patience. The quick fix of 9/0 + 10/96 for now with 6% I’m presuming that’s for new growth not the dark band or both? I know I will have to have it lightened and corrected at some point but anything to tide me over is fantastic. Can I also just check this new colour is what you would suggest to carry on with, closest matching my existing colour at the top and is this a 50/50 mix of the colours? Again thank you ever so much for your time, knowledge and patience.

Yes that's correct. Ideally you'd need highlights or a colour correction done. Will it be your hairdresser that's doing your hair next or your sister?