Grey hair 10vol or 20vol?

[x.x.kelly]

Hey basically I was having a discussion with my boss she was taught to use 10vol when covering grey hair where as I've been taught to only use 20vol ? What does everyone Elese use? X

 

[Dondon90]

Def 20vol for full coverage. If they only want a slight tone I would use 10vol

 

[kwoodsy]

I guess it depends on what colour house you use but I would always say 20 vol.

I used to use Schwarzkopf Igora and with their intense colours for covering grey (-00) you were to use 30vol with them. This is from years ago so I imagine all changed now!

 

[adamlea87]

It really depends on the colour line that you are using.

I think most permanent colours use 20 vol, sometimes lower on fine textures.

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[adamlea87]

To be honest, you can't really compare different lines, without knowing how they are mixed.

For example with L'Oreal INOA is mixed in a 1:1 ratio so when you use 20 vol, the strength of the developer is halfed into 10 vol.

Majirel is mixed in a 1:1.5 ratio so when you use 20 vol, you actually end up with 12 vol.

Some lines are evan mixed in a 1:2 ratio, so using 20 vol would give you 13.3 vol.

So what I mean is that it really depends on how the product has been made, how much pigment in the tube, ammonia etc..

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[x.x.kelly]

Ahh ok was just interesting to see

 

[faerififi]

There is no generalised fact about covering grey hair, every brand is different, so you should follow the manufacturers instructions to get the best result.

 

[ruby6]

I had a discussion many moons ago with a guy from a colour company an old boss was using who said to cover extremely strong grey/white hair or resistant hair to use liquid peroxide every time and nothing over a base 8 will give 100% coverage with no transparency. Would be interested to know others opinions on this

 

[rachwalton]

Hi there it all depends which colours you use they are all different for example if your doing same depth or darker with fudge you would use 3% with wella you would use 6%. Can't comment on any others but would stick to what you trained with.x

 

[persianista]

I had a discussion many moons ago with a guy from a colour company an old boss was using who said to cover extremely strong grey/white hair or resistant hair to use liquid peroxide every time and nothing over a base 8 will give 100% coverage with no transparency. Would be interested to know others opinions on this

Many moons ago, this was true, however these days we have extra coverage ranges. I use the chromatics beyond er cover, that gives full coverage even at level 10.

 

[Jody2412]

To be honest, you can't really compare different lines, without knowing how they are mixed.

For example with L'Oreal INOA is mixed in a 1:1 ratio so when you use 20 vol, the strength of the developer is halfed into 10 vol.

Majirel is mixed in a 1:1.5 ratio so when you use 20 vol, you actually end up with 12 vol.

Some lines are evan mixed in a 1:2 ratio, so using 20 vol would give you 13.3 vol.

So what I mean is that it really depends on how the product has been made, how much pigment in the tube, ammonia etc..

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I just read this I thought 1:1 ratio was equal parts so how does 20 vol become 10 vol?

How can a ratio of 1:2 of 20 vol give you 13.3 vol?

Sorry I think I'm missing something, are you saying tint dilutes peroxide? Xx

 

[persianista]

I just read this I thought 1:1 ratio was equal parts so how does 20 vol become 10 vol?

How can a ratio of 1:2 of 20 vol give you 13.3 vol?

Sorry I think I'm missing something, are you saying tint dilutes peroxide? Xx

Erm, of course it does!

 

[adamlea87]

I just read this I thought 1:1 ratio was equal parts so how does 20 vol become 10 vol?

It's probably easier to think about in terms of percentage strength...

• If you were to pour 50ml of 6% into a bowl, then 6% of the solution would be hydrogen peroxide and the other 94% would be water and a few other chemicals.

• If you were then to add 50ml of a colouring creme (which is also water based) the solution would be 100ml in total, but only 3% of the mixture would be hydrogen peroxide.

So in that way mixing equal parts of 20 vol / 6% will tint will dilute the peroxide down to 10 vol / 3%.

How can a ratio of 1:2 of 20 vol give you 13.3 vol?

This is the way I work it out (using a calculator!!)
For a 1:2 ratio:

• 50ml tint

• 100ml 20 volume (100 x 20 = 2000vol)

• Total Volume(amount) of solution = 150ml

• 2000vol / 150ml = 13.33vol

Or if you perfer to use percentage:

• 50ml tint

• 100ml 6% (100 x 6% = 600%)

• Total Volume of solution = 150ml

• 600% / 150ml = 4%

Of course you don't need to work all this out whist working in the salon, as long as you follow the manufactures instructions, but it just illustrates that differences between brands might not be immediately obvious.

Another example of differences between products is that two different brands may all use equal parts of 20 vol.
Brand "A" might say you will get 1 level of lift with 20 vol, whilst brand "B" might say you get three levels of lift with the same amount of 20 vol, the difference being that brand "B" has twice as much ammonia in their colour.

 

[LaceyFace]

Always 20vol When the guest wants complete gray coverage

 

[seancollinshaie]

I tend to always use 20vol on anyone with grey hair but I think it has to do with the % of the grey your client has as you can also use quasi for grey coverage but I think it's only 50% ? I'm not entirely sure on that actually but maybe someone else will be able to confirm that


Sean Collins Hairdressing Glasgow

 

[Jody2412]

Adamlea87 thank you for your constructive reply and explanation of your mathematical figures 😃

With regards to the ops post all colour brands and instructions differ. Schwarzkopf require 9% 30 vol to be used with the grey coverage range xx

 

[Laura28x]

I tend to always use 20vol on anyone with grey hair but I think it has to do with the % of the grey your client has as you can also use quasi for grey coverage but I think it's only 50% ? I'm not entirely sure on that actually but maybe someone else will be able to confirm that


Sean Collins Hairdressing Glasgow

Some brands are different.. 15vol quasi will give you 70% coverage. Yet a 9 vol would give you a lot less

 

[Chel10]

It's probably easier to think about in terms of percentage strength...

• If you were to pour 50ml of 6% into a bowl, then 6% of the solution would be hydrogen peroxide and the other 94% would be water and a few other chemicals.

• If you were then to add 50ml of a colouring creme (which is also water based) the solution would be 100ml in total, but only 3% of the mixture would be hydrogen peroxide.

So in that way mixing equal parts of 20 vol / 6% will tint will dilute the peroxide down to 10 vol / 3%.



This is the way I work it out (using a calculator!!)
For a 1:2 ratio:

• 50ml tint

• 100ml 20 volume (100 x 20 = 2000vol)

• Total Volume(amount) of solution = 150ml

• 2000vol / 150ml = 13.33vol

Or if you perfer to use percentage:

• 50ml tint

• 100ml 6% (100 x 6% = 600%)

• Total Volume of solution = 150ml

• 600% / 150ml = 4%

Of course you don't need to work all this out whist working in the salon, as long as you follow the manufactures instructions, but it just illustrates that differences between brands might not be immediately obvious.

Another example of differences between products is that two different brands may all use equal parts of 20 vol.
Brand "A" might say you will get 1 level of lift with 20 vol, whilst brand "B" might say you get three levels of lift with the same amount of 20 vol, the difference being that brand "B" has twice as much ammonia in their colour.

Wow adamlea87 that's blown my mind! I had no idea! I just know it works lol
Thanks for that 😀

 

[Dgolds]

Adamlea I love reading your replies, not only a hairdresser but a maths genius too! Lol! I'm in awe! X

 

[ellishairbeauty]

Adamlea can i just ask where you get your knowladge from? Like i think i know alot about colours/colour correction but your on another level. Is there some kind of science course u went on or is this simply researching on your own.
I would love to have your knowladge x
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