Holy Grail of bleach

[dreamylocks]

Ok I'd like to start a thread on everything to do with bleach. My training has been so basic on it and I can't even find the information I need out of good colour books or the Internet.

First low and slow. How slow and how low? When would this not work on a client? Like lots of colour build up ? Dark base? When woukd this work? Like on a root touch up or very light natural colour hair ?

Also I had a few tips while getting my hair done last. He told me an effective way to create ombre on a dark base 4/5/6. First to shampoo hair leave damp. Then proceed with boiling water to open the cuticle low developer 3 or 6% and two pumps of shampoo and bleach. Back comb and place foils and bleach mix where wanted.

Would this work on damp hair? How would it effect the final result?

I'd love to see everyone else's questions and answers to all things bleach too ....

 

[cassies97]

I'm a huge believer in low and slow. I never use higher than 6% with bleach on or off scalp! On a base 6 and above, pastel developer is perfect, whether it be retouches or full head, for darker bases of a depth 5 and below I'll use 6%. I might even use 1.9% on a base 8 with no warmth. When working with colour build up, you do what's called a cleanse (bleach bath) where you mix shampoo, developer, bleach and water. This really does help to remove build up. I wouldn't backcomb damp hair. Nor would I do a cleanse on Virgin hair for an ombré. A bleach bath will remove initial build up and/or lift up to 2 levels.

 

[dreamylocks]

Thanks he was referring to my hair which is coloured with a base 6/5. So virgin hair I'm fine with I'm just worried about any one with colour build up maybe used box dyes in the past.

Can you bleach bath then foil after? Will the hair get stuck at the orange stage? And why does this happen? What can you do to stop this happening? Is that from using a high developer? X

 

[AcidPerm]

First to shampoo hair leave damp. Then proceed with boiling water to open the cuticle low developer 3 or 6% and two pumps of shampoo and bleach.

Boiling water near the scalp? I'm assuming this is a typo?

It's the ammonia in the developer that opens the cuticle layer.

A bleach bath/cleanse is a weak bleach mix with the addition of shampoo (some people add oil or conditioner but I can't see what use that would have).

 

[cassies97]

Thanks he was referring to my hair which is coloured with a base 6/5. So virgin hair I'm fine with I'm just worried about any one with colour build up maybe used box dyes in the past.

Can you bleach bath then foil after? Will the hair get stuck at the orange stage? And why does this happen? What can you do to stop this happening? Is that from using a high developer? X

Yes you can bleach bath and foil after providing the hair is in good condition. It all depends on the client how far they lift. The higher the developer, the more warmth you get when lifting, plus the more damaging.

 

[dreamylocks]

Ok as this is the experience I've had so far. I've used 9% in foils and balayage both dark/ redish bases of colour and ive ended up with orange tones.

Can you still use low and slow with balayage then?

Also how long would I be leaving 6% foils on to get the lift needed? Can you go over the hour it states the manufacturers instructions? What's the cut of point with bleach and low and slow?

 

[dreamylocks]

Boiling water near the scalp? I'm assuming this is a typo?

It's the ammonia in the developer that opens the cuticle layer.

A bleach bath/cleanse is a weak bleach mix with the addition of shampoo (some people add oil or conditioner but I can't see what use that would have).

Not near the scalp he said this method for a ombre with a 5/6 base of existing colour. He just said to add the boiling water to the mix as it opens the cuticle more? Would you not recommend trying this then / also on wet pre shampooed hair ? X

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[cassies97]

Ok as this is the experience I've had so far. I've used 9% in foils and balayage both dark/ redish bases of colour and ive ended up with orange tones.

Can you still use low and slow with balayage then?

Also how long would I be leaving 6% foils on to get the lift needed? Can you go over the hour it states the manufacturers instructions? What's the cut of point with bleach and low and slow?

You will end up with orange tones. You need to tone afterwards. Balayage isn't a high contrast effect, it's much softer so you're not going for blonde against black.

Leave them on till they've developed! Bleach is more visual and texture developing, get the lift and check the integrity, if it's not light enough and still feels nice and strong then keep developing!

What do you mean the cut point?

 

[cassies97]

Balayage is a little different, because it isn't isolated by a foil, it can dry out a lot easier and it hasn't got the heat that a foil produces. So you can go a little higher with balayage. You could use a 6% on the back then move onto a 9% on the front or do a 3% on the back and a 6% on the front

 

[dreamylocks]

You will end up with orange tones. You need to tone afterwards. Balayage isn't a high contrast effect, it's much softer so you're not going for blonde against black.

Leave them on till they've developed! Bleach is more visual and texture developing, get the lift and check the integrity, if it's not light enough and still feels nice and strong then keep developing!

What do you mean the cut point?

I have toned with the balayage. So using a 6% would be ok with this technique still?

Ok and I meant cut off point as in a hour and it needs to be removed. What if the bleach dries out can I re apply some more ?

 

[cassies97]

Yep yep yep!

 

[dreamylocks]

Thanks for all your help 😊 x

 

[Joe96]

Yep with low and slow it basically works like this if you put bleach and 12% on the hair you would get the hair lifted up in about 15-20 minutes but the hair would feel damaged and there would be a lot of yellowness as you have lifted so quickly. Where as if you use 6% and leave it on longer so 45-50mins you will get a much cleaner blonde result and the integrity of the hair will be a lot better, low and slow is definitely the best way!

 

[adamlea87]

I would try experimenting with diffent prelighteners. Some are designed to lift fast, some have curbing agents to control the lift. Some are designed to cut though previous colour, some are designed for a more gentle lift or warn results. Some contain bleaching agents that produce heat and will cause burns when used on scalp/ with heat!

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[dreamylocks]

I would try experimenting with diffent prelighteners. Some are designed to lift fast, some have curbing agents to control the lift. Some are designed to cut though previous colour, some are designed for a more gentle lift or warn results. Some contain bleaching agents that produce heat and will cause burns when used on scalp/ with heat!

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Excellent that's so interesting as I didn't know this! I have just brought some wella blondor, do you have any info as to what bleaches do certain things and how do I find this information out. I was under the impression they where mostly all the same like a high lift and that was it. X

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