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L&P beads is orange Peel look...

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Fab Freak

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..is this the case for most systems..

I was studying GMG's tutorial on Million Dollar Smile lines and I wondered is the look of the bead only true to Creative's L&P systems or could this be applied to say OPI or Star?
 

Carole Lindsay

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Fab Freak said:
..is this the case for most systems..

I was studying GMG's tutorial on Million Dollar Smile lines and I wondered is the look of the bead only true to Creative's L&P systems or could this be applied to say OPI or Star?
Not sure what you're asking Lou - can you explain??
 

Fab Freak

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If you go to site stuff,tutorials, GMG has written one on smile lines and he refers to the bead as having an orange peel texture - sometimes I am working to wet and I wondered if this is wot I should be looking for on my systems, to acheive the right ratio...
 

Carole Lindsay

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Fab Freak said:
If you go to site stuff,tutorials, GMG has written one on smile lines and he refers to the bead as having an orange peel texture - sometimes I am working to wet and I wondered if this is wot I should be looking for on my systems, to acheive the right ratio...
Havent read the tutorial yet but the answer to your question is "yes". I think that when i do white it does look a bit pitted looking!!! Hth.
 

Lellipop

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Yep, You will need this sort of Ratio(orange peel effect) regardless of which make you us.
 

Fab Freak

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lesley1965 said:
Yep, You will need this sort of Ratio(orange peel effect) regardless of which make you us.
I tried to see this last night when I did a set of L&P pink and whites - but couldnt get it - either to wet or to dry arrrh -

Did most okay then last 3 we just to wet and my brush kept clogging - its so frustrating - to go from good to bad in a single set...

think I need glasses to all this detail work is having an effect on my peepers i think -
 

geeg

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It is kind of like doing a 'controlled' experiment ... getting your ratio right.

First rule when doing an experiment is always do everything exactly the same in the first step.

1.First submerge brush completely in the liquid every time. That way you know you are always starting out with the same amount in your brush.
None of this 'dipping' the flags in to make a small bead business' ... you NEVER know then how much is in your brush if you do that.

2. Draw out the brush against the side of the dappen dish ONCE and draw a line in your powder, with the flags of the brush, about 5mm long in a nice smooth motion. Do not linger in the powder.

3. Look at the bead you have created. Is it too dry or too wet? TOO WET?


Start again.

1. First submerge brush completely in the liquid every time. That way you know you are always starting out with the same amount in your brush.

2. Draw out the brush against the side of the dappen dish TWICE and draw a line in your powder, with the flags of the brush, about 5mm long in a nice smooth motion. Do not lingerin the powder.

3. Look at the bead you have created. Is it too dry or too wet? TOO WET?

Start again.

1.First submerge brush completely in the liquid every time. That way you know you are always starting out with the same amount in your brush.

2. Draw out the brush against the side of the dappen dish THREE TIMES and draw a line in your powder, with the flags of the brush, about 5mm long in a nice smooth motion.

3. Look at the bead you have created. Is it too dry or too wet?

See what I mean? and so on until you get it right and then REMEMBER WHAT YOU HAVE DONE AND ALWAYS DO IT.
Try to get your formula for medium and small beads and then always do the same thing.

I prefer to tell my students that the bead should look llike frosted glass and when they place it on the nail it should go nice and shiney before you start to press it out onto the nail.

Do not wipe your brush before starting to press out your bead .. the bead needs the liquid that is left in your brush to work that bead and to smooth over it. Wiping your brush leaves the brush to dry and it will get gunky.

Always use just the flags of your brush and never the belly to press out your bead. That way you will never inject too much liquid into your bead and ruin that nice perfect ratio you have just made you will also have more control and not touch the client with the bristles of the brush.

I was originally taught to use the belly of my brush and it is not good or safe practice. If your ratio is correct you do not need to press down hard to move that bead into place.

Try it. I hope it works for you.
 

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For what it's worth, what gigi has said above is exactly how I learned to get my ratio right. It's something that comes over time and your 'eye' eventually tells you when you're getting it right.
 

The Geek

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Just to answer the original question... No it isnt the same for all systems. You need to check with your manufacturer over their ratio.

Hope this helps ;)
 

smiler13334

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Geeg
Your explaination on how to get the correct ratio was fantastic. It will give a lot of people who are starting out a practical way of getting there as well as the look of the bead. I wish when l first started out they explained it like that to me. :)

Secondly - a tip from my Creative conversion day (absolutely the best money ever spent on training to date)

get a piece of paper draw small, medium and large circles.
Laminate the paper.
Then practice your beads by placing them onto the circles and they can then be wiped off. It is great for being able to check if your ratio is too wet or too dry or perfect.
 

Emmajt

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smiler13334 said:
Geeg

Secondly - a tip from my Creative conversion day (absolutely the best money ever spent on training to date)

get a piece of paper draw small, medium and large circles.
Laminate the paper.
Then practice your beads by placing them onto the circles and they can then be wiped off. It is great for being able to check if your ratio is too wet or too dry or perfect.
What a great idea, i'm off to laminate now!!!
 

I'm a Star

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wish i had access to a laminator that sounds like a great idea
 

Fab Freak

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smiler13334 said:
Geeg
Your explaination on how to get the correct ratio was fantastic. It will give a lot of people who are starting out a practical way of getting there as well as the look of the bead. I wish when l first started out they explained it like that to me. :)

Secondly - a tip from my Creative conversion day (absolutely the best money ever spent on training to date)

get a piece of paper draw small, medium and large circles.
Laminate the paper.
Then practice your beads by placing them onto the circles and they can then be wiped off. It is great for being able to check if your ratio is too wet or too dry or perfect.
Wihtout wanting to sound thick how small is small and how large is large (in diameter)...
 

princessmowgli

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If you don't have a laminater then try on of these methods

A: draw your circles onto the paper & slide it into one of those A4 clear sleeves that you can buy from any stationers/woolworths

B: draw your circles & do a Blue Peter, cover it in sticky back plastic. You know the stuff you cover school books with, about £2 a roll from same places as above.you'll have loads left over

C: Buy a clear zip file (book bag) from above shops or send your kiddies into school & buy one from them & pop in your page.


Sonia
 

Jeni Giles

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Page or Sheet protectors work just as well as lamination, and you can find those in any office supply or book store.
 
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