Lower arch ???

[jackiee]

Hi. Hope someone can help me here? Have been reading nailclass, which is just fab, picked up lots of useful tips but seem to be stuck on getting what the lower arch is! Not sure if im having a dumb moment, i keep reading it over and over and think i have become blind to the point! can anyone help me as im sure its important!!! Thanks

 

[scattyfox]

Hi Jackie

if you look at your nail from a side view, where the free edge comes out over the end of your fintertip. you can see that there is a shape to the free edge if you cant see it in your own nails pick up a tip and lay it on your nail, this line at the bottom of the nail where it comes away from your free edge is your lower arch. Its anothe rone we ahve to watch for when doign enhancements so that the nail still looks balanced and in proportion, if you file too much of this out it can make your anils look very weird.
HTH

 

[jackiee]

Thanks i get that just dont quite get the bit about how to create it by cutting tip?

 

[geeg]

Thanks i get that just dint quite get the bit about how to create it by cutting tip?

If you already are using a tip with a lower arch and the fit is perfect, you don't have to do a thing . If, however, you find the tip digging in or putting pressure onto the skin at the end of the finger, then you need to remove some of the lower arch (beyond the well area) by using curved scissors and following the line whilst cutting some away until the pressure is relieved from that area.

Another scenario is when the tip fits perfectly at the well area, but the rest looks really wide ... then do the same thing to the lower arch and this will narrow the tip beyond the well area, making the finished nail enhancement look much more sleek and attractive.

There are many tips around that do not have a lower arch incorporated into the design of the tip. If not, the end result will be much prettier if you incorporate it yourself using the same technique. HTH

 

[ambision24]

When you do a pink and white sculpted nail, I have been told various things about deciding where the lower arch should be.
1) Look at the profle (the left or right side) of the nail. Take a file and place it flat or horizontal to the grove wall, the file should naturally come strait out from the strait side of the side wall.
alternatively
2) Draw a strait line down the center of the profile of the finger.........

I look at compeitiion nails and see that they have a natural curve down, how do you file that without filing out the corner of your free edge? Is there a diagram or picture that someone has? This keeps confusing me.... If I was to put a tip there to "see" where it should be, it "declines" quicker than method one. Basically, it looks like I filed too much off when compared to a tip.
Kim

 

[Sparklepink]

When you do a pink and white sculpted nail, I have been told various things about deciding where the lower arch should be.
1) Look at the profle (the left or right side) of the nail. Take a file and place it flat or horizontal to the grove wall, the file should naturally come strait out from the strait side of the side wall.
alternatively2) Draw a strait line down the center of the profile of the finger.........

I look at compeitiion nails and see that they have a natural curve down, how do you file that without filing out the corner of your free edge? Is there a diagram or picture that someone has? This keeps confusing me.... If I was to put a tip there to "see" where it should be, it "declines" quicker than method one. Basically, it looks like I filed too much off when compared to a tip.
Kim

i personally file out my lower arch straight i dont like the angled down look... it looks odd to me

heres a piccy or what i think you described Kim

trying to get a really straight lower arch on a tip can be difficult if you havent pinched your c curve and you do tend to give the free edge more of a taper

Jess
xox

 

[ambision24]

Thanks Jessica for the pic!! I think part of my problem is that the clients I am working on have shorter nail beds which makes it harder for me to see the side line.
Kim

 

[Sparklepink]

Thanks Jessica for the pic!! I think part of my problem is that the clients I am working on have shorter nail beds which makes it harder for me to see the side line.
Kim

if only we had the best beds all the time hunnio.... i really struggle to find the rite comp models.... i so know what i need and want but its finding them!

Jess
xox

 

[geeg]

The problem with Jess's photo, is that there is no lower arch in those tips/sculpts. They come straight out from the corner of the smile ... if there was a lower arch in these photos it would help you to see what it should look like.

A lower arch does not have to be dramatic and unnatural looking ... just gentle, subtle and to mirror the upper arch of the nail for the prettiest and most natural look.

Natural nails do not grow straight out from the side wall .. they have a gentle curve that follows the profile of the rest of the natural nail. This natural effect is what one is trying to emulate when creating the lower arch as opposed to the obviously fake porn star look.

I think many get confused between what SOME competition judges are looking for and what your CLIENTS are looking for. The majority of my clients want their nails to look natural but even BETTER. If I get clients who want fake ... I can do that ... but generally when they see mine, they want what I have even if they thought they wanted something else when they came through the door.