Problems with proclere blue frosting

[bougeac]

Hi everyone, love the forum, some great information on here.

I had a client that i recently performed a full head bleach on. She had pretty resistant hair and i left the product on as long as i dared to get a satisfactory lift before applying some toner on it. The colour came out ok (ish) but as i hadnt done a full head bleach for a LONG time (highlights/pieces/block colour normally) i decided to try and see if i could find a nicer alternative to the blondor that i was using. I saw lots of good things being said about "proclere blue frosting" and liked the fact that you only use 6% to ultimately obtain a very pale lift even on difficult hair. I bought a set and recently had the opportunity to use this new product on a client with a base 5. As her hair was Dark brown (and she had told me that in the past when she has had highlights the ends never seem to lift as much as the mid lengths and root areas) i decided to use 2 booster packs with the blue gel and peroxide mixture and applied it as block colour. BUT after 35 - 40 mins it had barely lifted and as i was under pressure i ended up rinsing the product off and then hitting the same hair with blondor + 9 % (i would normally have hit it with 40 volume but was worried that as i had only just applied another product it might cause problems). I know some of you will probably be rolling your eyes saying i shouldnt have done that, but it came out ok in the end. So, what did i do wrong? did i have the wrong impression about the capabilities of the product and that the base/depth of the hair was too dark to get the result i was looking for? Or should i have used more booster packs?

Hope you can help,

Chris

 

[kimi1101]

i was taught to use blue frosting differently from what the instructions say, and its always been fine with me. but i wouldnt have used only 6% on a base 5. Would have gone for 9% or done 6% then redone with 6%, depending on condition of the hair.

and before you ask im not gonna tell you how I use it cos I could poss be telling you something really bad

xxx

ps dont use 12% bleach on hair - thats just brutal. her scalp would have been laupin!

 

[minky]

Hi , you would have been far better doing a load of test pieces first in advance with 6% and 9% ...... and added some extra booster if you thought it wasn't lifting ....

the test peices will eliminate all the guesswork and help you with your timings

for sensitive scalps..... I tend to add a bit more booster rather than up the peroxide level ....

I have always got fabulous lift with proclere blue gel frosting using 6% as long as the base wasn't too dark or had too much stubborn orange pigment in it .... (again the test peices will show you this )

do you think she may have had something on her hair ? which she did at home and not told you about ?

Even if she has heat straightened it at home with a heat protecting spray and hot irons before she came in ?
this can slow down the cuticles from opening up too .

When you say you did it like a block colour ?
did you apply it to the mid length and ends then let it lift half way before you did the roots ?
sorry for so many questions x minky

 

[bougeac]

Hi everyone, thanks for the prompt replies!

Minky, I applied the product to the ends/mid lengths with the thinking that once i had a reasonable lift there i would then apply to the roots (the thinking being that the heat from the scalp etc causes the colour to lift quicker in this area) as you can guess, i never got to the stage where i was in a position to apply the proclere to the roots , simply because the lift on the ends just didnt happen. HOWEVER, the client concerned has very wavy hair and likes to wear it poker straight and she does hit it hard with the irons every day... Drat I didnt think of that one, bet she had sprayed it with tons of product that day prior to straightening it....

chris

 

[minky]

Hi everyone, thanks for the prompt replies!

Minky, I applied the product to the ends/mid lengths with the thinking that once i had a reasonable lift there i would then apply to the roots (the thinking being that the heat from the scalp etc causes the colour to lift quicker in this area) as you can guess, i never got to the stage where i was in a position to apply the proclere to the roots , simply because the lift on the ends just didnt happen. HOWEVER, the client concerned has very wavy hair and likes to wear it poker straight and she does hit it hard with the irons every day... Drat I didnt think of that one, bet she had sprayed it with tons of product that day prior to straightening it....

chris

Hi bougeac , Yes that can alter the timings and the penetration.....just think lol .... all those lovely heat sealed tightly closed cuticles will take loads more time to open ..... :sad:

:hug: this has happened to me before too with a colour
it simply wouldn't deposit .... I actually did test pieces the week before too !
and I couldn't work it out either .... till we ran through what she had been doing lol

also I'm sure you know but for others who don't .....
covering with a cap .... sitting her somewhere nice warm in the salon helps a lot too ....

I find this oil bleach performs much better when kept warm

but she would need to lay off the straighteners and certain heat protector sprays for a week or so before .....this may help a out a lot
good luck x minky

 

[bougeac]

Hi Minky, hope your day is going good!

Just one more question, do you think that even using irons without any product would compress the cuticles so much that the proclere would have had problems processing correctly or are you meaning that the heat protection spray/serum would be the main problem.

Cheers,

Chris