Removing colour and changing hair colour?

[sunshine92]

Hi Salon Geeks,
I have two questions.
1) I have this client with dark red hair at the root and light red on the ends. She want to have a new look of black on the root and blue grey from mid length to ends.
I am planning to remove the colour with bleach and 30 volume peroxide and olaplex. But i dont know if it will stripe off the colour very well. What is your suggestion.
2) based on the new look she wish to have, i want to do a three colour application. I want to apply the black on the root about 2cm, then do a stripes of blue in blonde. Will it give out brilliant result.
I would love to hear from you all.
Note: I attached a picture of her current hair and the new look she wish to have.
Thank you all for your help so far.

Regards,
Angela

 

[jamiereid92]

I would do pretty much the same as you, however you have to think about the condition of the hair.

I can see straight away that girl with the red hair has super damaged hair, do you think you will be able to get it to white without damaging it further?

And for the colour through the ends I would mix a deeper blue and a lighter blue, painting the deeper blue nearer the root and fading it out to the lighter blue x

 

[sunshine92]

Thanks jamiereid92. I think with the olaplex, it will not do extra damage to the hair. Then with the take home treatment and live-in treatment, her hair will bounce back to shiny healthier looking hair.
What do you think?

 

[jamiereid92]

take some strand tests first see how it goes, olaplex is good but can only do so much x

 

[AcidPerm]

I agree with @jamiereid92 about doing strand tests first to see how well the hair takes more bleaching.

Olaplex can repair broken disulphide bonds within the hair but it can't replace damaged cuticle scales. I'd be quite cautious as the hair already looks quite dry and damaged on the ends where you'd need to lift it to a 10, then tone before applying a blue/grey colour to the ends, otherwise you risk it going slightly muddy green.

Also, have you considered using a colour reducer instead of bleach to lift out the red as this will be far less damaging.

 

[sunshine92]

Thanks AcidPerm for your great suggestion. Its great privilege and honour to have you guys here. I never thought of colour reducer as i never used it in colour lifting and removing. Could you please suggest the best one i can use to give best result? Does it remove the entire colour thereby leaving the hair blonde?

 

[Tina murtagh]

I'd say you would have to advise client this is something that might not be achieved in one appointment. Her hair already looks quite damaged and although you are using olaplex it is not going to 100% stop breakage.

I have stripped out red in the past very gently using 1part Blondor and 3 parts Welloxon pastel developer. Went in and done it through mid lengths and ends processed with a cap on under heat rinsed when I felt the hair wasn't lifting any more then used same mixture but from the root this time. The hair was still in beautiful condition and I got it light enough to colour it blue although not light enough that I could have achieved the light blue your client would like on her ends. And I must add my clients hair was in excellent condition prior to service.

I always think slow and steady wins the race. Don't rush it and in the end your outcome will probably be better than you had even hoped for! Xx

 

[sunshine92]

Thank you Tina. You are awesome

 

[AcidPerm]

I use Affinage Eraser as it's readily available in most hairdressing wholesalers. It removes the permanent artificial colour molecules but not the natural colour.

However, bear in mind that when you originally apply an oxidising colour, the peroxide in the mix will lighten the hair slightly anyway, so it when you remove that colour, you're left with hair that looks quite a 'raw' colour for want of a better description. You always need to apply an oxidising colour after using a colour reducer so it's not really a problem.

To do this colour change well will take time and products so be confident to charge properly for your services.

 

[sunshine92]

Thanks AcidPerm. I will definitely work it out well. I agree this job will take much time and product.

 

[lilyanna]

I have been looking for a good color reducer myself. I just tried Loreal Effasol on red chi colored hair and it didnt budge. So dont try that one! lol

 

[AcidPerm]

I have been looking for a good color reducer myself. I just tried Loreal Effasol on red chi colored hair and it didnt budge. So dont try that one! lol

Must admit, I'm not keen on Effasor as it's bleach based and isn't a colour reducer, more just a general remover as it doesn't distinguish between artificial and natural colour.

If you're removing a direct dye, you need a special direct dye remover ideally, or use a colour reducer for removing oxidising colour.

 

[sunshine92]

I have been looking for a good color reducer myself. I just tried Loreal Effasol on red chi colored hair and it didnt budge. So dont try that one! lol

Thanks lillyanna.

 

[lilyanna]

Must admit, I'm not keen on Effasor as it's bleach based and isn't a colour reducer, more just a general remover as it doesn't distinguish between artificial and natural colour.

If you're removing a direct dye, you need a special direct dye remover ideally, or use a colour reducer for removing oxidising colour.

very good to know. thanks!

 

[Olive293]

This was a correction I did last week, but was months and months of direct dye applications.
I wouldn't touch it with out heaps of strand tests first! And I'd also be very wary of going in with bleach first!
I think the most important thing is to not promise the client anything! I made t clear to this lady that I couldn't be 100% sure what colour exactly her hair will be as she walks out that day, it could be a process, but I'd make site she has good hair lol! Luckily she loved it!
I actually lifted a lot of this colour out with clear and 30vol, and then double processed and went in with some bleach after

 

[Olive293]

Actually I think I used 20vol...

 

[Jodie howe]

View attachment 201097 This was a correction I did last week, but was months and months of direct dye applications.
I wouldn't touch it with out heaps of strand tests first! And I'd also be very wary of going in with bleach first!
I think the most important thing is to not promise the client anything! I made t clear to this lady that I couldn't be 100% sure what colour exactly her hair will be as she walks out that day, it could be a process, but I'd make site she has good hair lol! Luckily she loved it!
I actually lifted a lot of this colour out with clear and 30vol, and then double processed and went in with some bleach after

Looks awesome!

 

[Jodie howe]

My advice would be telling the client no chance will this happen straight away, to be able to have blue hair you need a very clean white blonde as having any traces of yellow or brassyness can cause the hair to look green, her hair doesn't look in the best condition as it is if I'm honest, & you don't want to send the client away with her hair in a carrier bag, honesty is the best policy, this will take a very long gradual process to achieve the desired end result without killing the hair.x

 

[sunshine92]

View attachment 201097 This was a correction I did last week, but was months and months of direct dye applications.
I wouldn't touch it with out heaps of strand tests first! And I'd also be very wary of going in with bleach first!
I think the most important thing is to not promise the client anything! I made t clear to this lady that I couldn't be 100% sure what colour exactly her hair will be as she walks out that day, it could be a process, but I'd make site she has good hair lol! Luckily she loved it!
I actually lifted a lot of this colour out with clear and 30vol, and then double processed and went in with some bleach after

Thanks

My advice would be telling the client no chance will this happen straight away, to be able to have blue hair you need a very clean white blonde as having any traces of yellow or brassyness can cause the hair to look green, her hair doesn't look in the best condition as it is if I'm honest, & you don't want to send the client away with her hair in a carrier bag, honesty is the best policy, this will take a very long gradual process to achieve the desired end result without killing the hair.x

Thanks

 

[sunshine92]

Looks awesome!

Exactly. Thanks dear