Resistant hair will not lighten

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alpina

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I have a question about my partners hair which will not take colour and we haven't been able to get an explanation from anyone yet. His hair has been coloured 4 times during his life and has never been succesful. My senior hairdresser puts it down to him using cheap supermarket shampoos, however he has only ever used the correct salon products so this is not the case at all. His hair is a level 8 and very fine.

Last week I decided to have another go at colouring his hair to see if it would work this time. We used bleach + 30vol in foils and left to process for a full 60 minutes. The reason I went straight in with 30vol is due to knowing how resistant his hair is to lightening.

I rinsed after 60 minutes even though it hadn't lightened properly and we didn't have enough time for a second application of bleach. I did 8 foils through the top section which all lightened sufficiently except for a thin stripe running though the right hand side of each foil. I also did 3 foils on each side of his head which was the same, however the parts that didn't lighten were a perfectly symetrical pattern on each side, three thin stripes running diagonally across his head and perfectly parallel to each other.

I couldn't have caused this by not applying product evenly as the pattern of darker hair was perfect, not at all random. Also these bits haven't lightened at all, they are still his base colour.

Afterwards we used a dark purple fudge (affinage colour grenade) over all his hair, left to process for the full 30 minutes. This rinsed clean out of his hair and left no trace at all except for a wishy washy pale pink on the prelightened bits of his hair.

I am very new to hairdressing myself but this is not due to me not mixing or applying colour correctly. His hair has been the same the other times he has tried colouring.

1. Tried bleaching his hair in a salon when he was quite young. He doesn't know what they used, he remembers being told it was a 'mild form of bleach suitable for children'. This didn't lighten properly and his hair had to be clippered off.

2. Years ago we bleached him with a box colour which left ugly random patches of his natural colour and some white patches, some yellow patches. Had to get the clippers again.

3. Years ago when I was doing my salon assistant course at college the teachers mixed semi colours for us to practice applying and rinsing. His colour rinsed straight out leaving no trace at all and even baffled my teacher as to why. She had selected and mixed the colour so we know it was done correctly.

I really hope someone here has an explanation or has seen this before. It's really frustrating me not knowing why this happens and he really wants to be able to colour his hair.
 
Anyone? I hope it isn't too silly of a question, but I have asked both my hairdressers and they couldn't help me.
 
How strange, I've never heard of this before, where colour doesn't take at all.I have though had clients where I've coloured their hair darker and the colour has literally washed down the sink. With two of them they had been using a medicated shampoo for a scalp problem.as soon as they stopped using it the colour took.
The most recent was a young girl who wanted to go darker and a band across the middle of her hair wouldn't hold the colour, I gave her kerastase to use and she came back today and it turned out perfect, so maybe that was something she was using.
But I've never heard of hair not lightening. Maybe it is something to do with the way his hair is structured so the product can not penetrate. Especially if its been like this for years. If it was medication or a product surely it would be going on for years.
Maybe ask a colour technician who know more about the structure of the hair
Hope this helps
 
This is a problem from within his body. Medications most likely? Sounds to me like the cuticle layer of his hair is not reacting properly to the chemical process of hair coloring. Has he asked his doctor about this? I have had this happen with clients who's hair is returning after chemo treatments before. It has to do with the inner workings of the body and the way the hair is produced from the hair follicles.
 
Try pre softening the hair with some 20vol alone, leave on for 10 mins, then dry into the hair and then colour as normal.
Like you said it was just a few bands not lifting, so if they are still visible just soften them and colour over once dry. As for toner, you may need to use a permanent straight after colouring, or one of my personal favourites... Toner shampoo, leave for 5 then cover it with a good amount of conditioner until the lather has gone. It's also a great way of getting the full 20-30 minute look of toning with shampoo when in a hurry xoxo
 
It could be the build up of silcones in shampoos like pantene... It could be medicine, it could be borderline redhead/strawberry blonde.... It could be the fact hes only had professional environment 3 times...box dye doesnt count!

In my opinion a semi proberly wont lift resisitant hair-to what you've tried to get. It would go wishy washy as the hair hasnt been lifted enough. When You lift whats the underlying pigment like? Is it quite pale, orangey???.... have you tried lifting with bleach 6% and for the manufacters time frame rather than over processing and goin in twice.....

Also i wouldnt do scalp bleach using 30 vol regardless of how resistant their hair is! xoxo
 

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