SSW - Acid Peel Exfoliation

[oey]

Although I have the NVQ2 in beauty I have never really used an acid peel exfoliant on a client - suppose I have always been used to the granular type exfoliants on my skin and have never used a professional skin care range that had the acid type in its range.

This will soon change in the next month or so and I am re-doing my homework from college and the different products that I havent used a great deal or for some time.

Now I know that the acid that is in these type of exfolients disolves the dead skin but why does this not disolve the good skin cells that are on the skin at the same time.

I have tried a low strength acid type peel - similar to the type that is available over the counter and cant say that I was impressed.

So how does the stronger professional only ones know how to just disolve the dead skin cells and not the good ones.

Apologies if you feel I should know this but it was one of those things in college that I just took as was the case without really knowing the reasons and the skin science behind it!

 

[littlepinkfairy]

In a couple of the Matis facials, they contain exfoliation by fruit acids (AHA/BHA) which are not strong compared to glycolic acid peels. The way i explain it to my clients is that the enzymes eat away at the dead skin cells like a pacman. As the fruit acids are not hugely strong and they are not left on for a great deal of time, the living skin cells are left untouched and in tact. I love Enzyme Peeling Mask by Matis, smells gorgeous of citrus, and we use it under steam just to activate the enzymes and lift the dead skin cells away from the skin so the enzymes can munch away freely!!

 

[oey]

In a couple of the Matis facials, they contain exfoliation by fruit acids (AHA/BHA) which are not strong compared to glycolic acid peels. The way i explain it to my clients is that the enzymes eat away at the dead skin cells like a pacman. As the fruit acids are not hugely strong and they are not left on for a great deal of time, the living skin cells are left untouched and in tact. I love Enzyme Peeling Mask by Matis, smells gorgeous of citrus, and we use it under steam just to activate the enzymes and lift the dead skin cells away from the skin so the enzymes can munch away freely!!

Well that sounds a great and simple enough explanation thanx - so do all the acid peel types work to the same/similar effect?

The matis one sounds delicious! How does the skin feel after compaired to a granular type exfoliant?

 

[pure]

According to my book "The Science of Beauty Therapy" it says.....

Small amounts of AHA,s are added...as they cause skin swelling and peeling.

Don't know if that helps at all. It had surprisingly little information on the subject.:irked:

 

[littlepinkfairy]

Well that sounds a great and simple enough explanation thanx - so do all the acid peel types work to the same/similar effect?

The matis one sounds delicious! How does the skin feel after compaired to a granular type exfoliant?

I can't fairly comment on other acid peels as i have not experianced them, but i would imagine they all work in similar ways, just some are alot stronger than others.
I always think that the fruit acid exfoliators work better than granular, it might just be psychological though! They leave your skin wonderfully soft and if you have quite congested skin it sorts it out instantly. Brilliant, you will love them!
xx

 

[oey]

According to my book "The Science of Beauty Therapy" it says.....

Small amounts of AHA,s are added...as they cause skin swelling and peeling.

Don't know if that helps at all. It had surprisingly little information on the subject.:irked:

My college books dont really explain how the science bit happens either! After this weekend having these thing just "happen" isnt good enough for my little brain anymore!

 

[pinkmummy]

I can only really answer this in relation to the products I use -Guinot.
They do a low strength aha peel for retail use called Gommage Biologique, I have to say it's the most lush product I've ever used. I love it, not only does it exfoliate beautifully without any harsh grains but it smells gorgeous and it shimmers. What woman could resist it. It uses mild fruit enzymes to lift off the dead skin cells in about 2 minutes. The aha's in it are derived from sugar cane, lemon and orange.
The also do a salon professional treatment called Beaute Neuve. It uses fruit enzymes to release dead cells from the skins surface whilst softening the epidermis. The first phase is applied over a thin layer of gauze. The second phase deactivates the 1st one. It makes a kind of fizzing noise and I have to keep using effleurage movements whilst applying to prevent the clients skin feeling too warm. All residue is then removed and a nourishing mask applied. The is no main massage with this facial as the skin has been sensitised enough, massage would be too much.
Hope this helps a bit.

 

[oey]

I can only really answer this in relation to the products I use -Guinot.
They do a low strength aha peel for retail use called Gommage Biologique, I have to say it's the most lush product I've ever used. I love it, not only does it exfoliate beautifully without any harsh grains but it smells gorgeous and it shimmers. What woman could resist it. It uses mild fruit enzymes to lift off the dead skin cells in about 2 minutes. The aha's in it are derived from sugar cane, lemon and orange.
The also do a salon professional treatment called Beaute Neuve. It uses fruit enzymes to release dead cells from the skins surface whilst softening the epidermis. The first phase is applied over a thin layer of gauze. The second phase deactivates the 1st one. It makes a kind of fizzing noise and I have to keep using effleurage movements whilst applying to prevent the clients skin feeling too warm. All residue is then removed and a nourishing mask applied. The is no main massage with this facial as the skin has been sensitised enough, massage would be too much.
Hope this helps a bit.

Thanks Odette.

Is this Beute Neuve one only on for a limited amount of time too so it doesnt disolve the good skin cells too?

I can only see the limited time factor is what stops the acid from disolving the good cells and well as the dead ones.

 

[beautynails]

Thanks Odette.

Is this Beute Neuve one only on for a limited amount of time too so it doesnt disolve the good skin cells too?

I can only see the limited time factor is what stops the acid from disolving the good cells and well as the dead ones.

Any professional strength AHA/BHA can only be left on for a limited time or it will effect the good cells. It can result in something similar to a mild surface burn. I have experienced this myself when training, and I imagine it would become worse the longer it was left on.
This is why I prefer ones that come in different strengths & have a neutraliser.

 

[oey]

Any professional strength AHA/BHA can only be left on for a limited time or it will effect the good cells. It can result in something similar to a mild surface burn. I have experienced this myself when training, and I imagine it would become worse the longer it was left on.
This is why I prefer ones that come in different strengths & have a neutraliser.

now I understand - thank you so much I hate not knowing these things!

 

[pinkmummy]

Hi Theresa, we have set time limits for different skin types. For example sensitive skin would be a shorter time than congested skin with a buildup of debris.
We use the 2nd phase to deactivate the peel before the rinsing off. It's a highly effective treatment, and sorted out one clients skin who had gone through her whole life since being a teen with a thick build up of dead skin cells. She had a course of 3 over 2 weeks, then monthly onwards. Clients have to use full sunblock during and for at least a month after treatment.

 

[beautynails]

It's a highly effective treatment, and sorted out one clients skin who had gone through her whole life since being a teen with a thick build up of dead skin cells.

It sorted out my skin too. I've always suffered from severe acne, in my early 20's my face was covered in huge cysts, but a course of aha/bha treatments sorted it out. I know do a course of them approx every 6 months, I can feel when I need it. It makes the world of difference.

 

[Sassy Hassy]

This is taken from the Nimue training Manual ...

glycolic Acid (normally derived from sugar cane) has a better penetrative capacity due to its small molecular weight and size

Lactic acid (from soured milk)has a largr molecular weight than glycolic acid - but with lightening and brightening properties

Citric acid (from citrus fruits) is best know for it's bleaching proerties.

How AHA's work

The full mechanism of action of alpha-hydroxy acids is not yet fully understood. It is known however, that they can as a humectant that absorbs moisture from the amosphere. When applied to the skin, these hydrated AHA's act to increase the water content of the skin and thus moisturise the outer layer of the epidermis(the stratum corneum) and consequently make the skin softer and more flexible.

Another method by which AHA's act is by reducing corneocyte adhesion and accelerating cell proliferation within the deeper layers of the skin. This exfoliating action of AHA's occurs as a result of their ability to break the bonds between dead cells that form at the surface of the skin. Skin normally has a dead layer of cells at its surface (the corneocyte layer) and AHA's can speed up the normal process of skin regeneration and sloughing. This results in increased flexibility of the skin as well as decreased formation of large dry skin flakes at the surface of the skin. when applied in higher concentrations in a a professional treatment, AHA's operate at a deeper level and cause detachment of keratinocytes and epidermolysis.

...

AHA's in their raw form have a very low Ph so this is buffered to be suitable for use on the skin. Nimue salon products are buffered to a Ph of 3. However it is also the percentage of AHA's that make them suitable for either home use, salon or medical strength. The strongest salon AHA that Nimue offers is 35% and is suited to people with a thickened stratum corneum usually due to too much sun damage. Salons are not able to offer anything over 55% as this is considered medical strength and is when you see the "snakeskin" shedding of the skin.

The AHA's can only stay on the skin for a certain length of time which prevents an acid burn. For Nimue this up to 15 minutes.

Not sure if that answers your question, but may give you a greater insight into AHA's as a whole.

 

[oey]

Thanks yet again Sass!

Knew the science behind these was probably complex but this has made it sound understandable!

You are a bloody star yet again!

 

[beautynails]

Just to add that products containing different AhA's are more effective than products with one type.
AHA's can come from
glycolic acid -sugar cane/unripe grapes
salicylic acid-willow extract
lactic acid-milk
citric acid-citrus fruit
malic acid-apple
tartaric acid-grapes

 

[oey]

Just to add that products containing different AhA's are more effective than products with one type.
AHA's can come from
glycolic acid -sugar cane/unripe grapes
salicylic acid-willow extract
lactic acid-milk
citric acid-citrus fruit
malic acid-apple
tartaric acid-grapes

Thanks

do all these acids work in the same way or does one have different benefits over another?

 

[beautynails]

They basically work in the same way as in the exfolliating effect but can have some differing benfits as in Sassy's post.

This is taken from the Nimue training Manual ...

glycolic Acid (normally derived from sugar cane) has a better penetrative capacity due to its small molecular weight and size

Lactic acid (from soured milk)has a largr molecular weight than glycolic acid - but with lightening and brightening properties

Citric acid (from citrus fruits) is best know for it's bleaching proerties.

.

 

[Sassy Hassy]

Just to add that products containing different AhA's are more effective than products with one type.
AHA's can come from
glycolic acid -sugar cane/unripe grapes
salicylic acid-willow extract
lactic acid-milk
citric acid-citrus fruit
malic acid-apple
tartaric acid-grapes

I'm not sure but aren't some of these BHA's? I am sure salcylic acid is, but now you have me doubting myself!

Nimue have two salon treatments, one which has a triple combination of AHA's - glycolic, lactic and citric - to exfoliate lighten and brighten the skin. They also have a treatment for very thickened skin which is the 35% glycolic acid on its own as the skin needs a damned good and deep exfoliation. once you have the thickened stratum corneum under control you would then switch to the triple AHA solution in further treatments.

 

[beautynails]

I'm not sure but aren't some of these BHA's? I am sure salcylic acid is, but now you have me doubting myself!

Nimue have two salon treatments, one which has a triple combination of AHA's - glycolic, lactic and citric - to exfoliate lighten and brighten the skin. They also have a treatment for very thickened skin which is the 35% glycolic acid on its own as the skin needs a damned good and deep exfoliation. once you have the thickened stratum corneum under control you would then switch to the triple AHA solution in further treatments.

Sorry Sass you are right:o The brand I'm using has both.

 

[pure]

Just to add that products containing different AhA's are more effective than products with one type.
AHA's can come from
glycolic acid -sugar cane/unripe grapes
salicylic acid-willow extract
lactic acid-milk
citric acid-citrus fruit
malic acid-apple
tartaric acid-grapes

I know that these can be fairly common allergens when consumed, but what about when applied to the skin? Do you check for allergies for these things during the consultation?