Virgin hair wanting some copper slices

[Nee0890]

Hi geeks, I have a client next week she is a base 6 with the odd grey short hair. She has no colour in her hair at the moment but would like a change and have some cooper or red bits put through her hair for Christmas. I use wella and matrix colours. She liked the colour matrix 8bc (I am popping round to confirm her chosen colours). I haven't lifted dark hair to this kind of colour before I usually have people with light hair wanting these colours. I was going to do 8bc with either 30 vol or 40 vol? am I right? or does any one else have any ideas which they think would look nice.
thank you in advance

 

[tsparker78]

Are you going to be using foils? How many levels of lift are you looking for? Which peroxide will give you that amount of lift?

 

[Nee0890]

She's a 6 at the mo and looking to lift to a 8. I'm thinking more 40 Bol just to give the lift a bit of a boost. What do you think?

 

[KHS]

She's a 6 at the mo and looking to lift to a 8. I'm thinking more 40 Bol just to give the lift a bit of a boost. What do you think?

I think not! Why would you put on a 40Vol for 2 levels of lift on virgin hair?
Think about your developers and how they work best x

 

[Nee0890]

I would use for 2-3 level lift 30vol but I was thinking for the colour to show up more go a level up? I've never done this kind of colour on dark hair usually I do them as low lights in lighter hair.

 

[Nee0890]

I know the rules of lifting and darling hair but what I was worried about was with a copper if it lifted that be extra would the copper be more clearer if that makes sense.

 

[cassies97]

I know the rules of lifting and darling hair but what I was worried about was with a copper if it lifted that be extra would the copper be more clearer if that makes sense.

How can copper be cleaner?

 

[funtimefranko]

How can copper be cleaner?

Clearer lol. Copper that stands out they mean, im assuming

 

[cassies97]

Clearer lol. Copper that stands out they mean, im assuming

Oh hahaha oops[emoji85]

 

[Nee0890]

Sorry that's what I meant. I didn't want it to be a dull copper that looks like a blonde not lifting properly haha i wanted it to be a true copper. I don't know if i'm making sense. X

 

[AcidPerm]

She's a 6 at the mo and looking to lift to a 8. I'm thinking more 40 Bol just to give the lift a bit of a boost. What do you think?

Erm, not really.

Maybe you need to re-read your colour theory and understand that when you lighten hair, you expose the underlying pigment and then you either enhance or neutralise it.

With ready mixed tints, (eg. 8/3 or 8g) the gold tone in the tint is the correct amount to produce a nice soft gold on a level 8. If you add too high a developer to the tint, you will be lifting it up to a level 9 or 10 (depending on brand) but the tone will be too intense for that level.

Do you understand about primary, secondary and tertiary colours?

 

[Nee0890]

Thank you. X

 

[chris_causey]

I would use for 2-3 level lift 30vol but I was thinking for the colour to show up more go a level up? I've never done this kind of colour on dark hair usually I do them as low lights in lighter hair.

No just use your 30vol and you will be fine. Remember the dye is your motor, the peroxide is just the fuel so never use anything stronger than you need. Here is an idea, and this will only work with virgin hair. Apply a level 10 with 6% to your virgin level 6 and you will get a better level 8 than if you apply an 8 with 9%.
Use this formula. Target shade x2, minus virgin colour = depth to apply.
So in this case. 8x2 - 6= 10.
By doing this you can get better lift out of virgin hair without the need to disturb to much of the underlying tone because you will only need to use 6%. In this instance though because you are looking for a copper shade you could use 9% because the underlying pigment (orange) is actually going to add to your result.
I hope this kind of makes sense, I know it's not what all the manufacturers say, but you have to consider the preexisting colour of the hair and how that will add to you final colour.

 

[funtimefranko]

No just use your 30vol and you will be fine. Remember the dye is your motor, the peroxide is just the fuel so never use anything stronger than you need. Here is an idea, and this will only work with virgin hair. Apply a level 10 with 6% to your virgin level 6 and you will get a better level 8 than if you apply an 8 with 9%.
Use this formula. Target shade x2, minus virgin colour = depth to apply.
So in this case. 8x2 - 6= 10.
By doing this you can get better lift out of virgin hair without the need to disturb to much of the underlying tone because you will only need to use 6%. In this instance though because you are looking for a copper shade you could use 9% because the underlying pigment (orange) is actually going to add to your result.
I hope this kind of makes sense, I know it's not what all the manufacturers say, but you have to consider the preexisting colour of the hair and how that will add to you final colour.

Wow thats very helpful. Thanks lol

 

[cassies97]

No just use your 30vol and you will be fine. Remember the dye is your motor, the peroxide is just the fuel so never use anything stronger than you need. Here is an idea, and this will only work with virgin hair. Apply a level 10 with 6% to your virgin level 6 and you will get a better level 8 than if you apply an 8 with 9%.
Use this formula. Target shade x2, minus virgin colour = depth to apply.
So in this case. 8x2 - 6= 10.
By doing this you can get better lift out of virgin hair without the need to disturb to much of the underlying tone because you will only need to use 6%. In this instance though because you are looking for a copper shade you could use 9% because the underlying pigment (orange) is actually going to add to your result.
I hope this kind of makes sense, I know it's not what all the manufacturers say, but you have to consider the preexisting colour of the hair and how that will add to you final colour.

This is very true, its due to a 10 having the highest amount of ammonia (minus highlift).

 

[Nee0890]

No just use your 30vol and you will be fine. Remember the dye is your motor, the peroxide is just the fuel so never use anything stronger than you need. Here is an idea, and this will only work with virgin hair. Apply a level 10 with 6% to your virgin level 6 and you will get a better level 8 than if you apply an 8 with 9%.
Use this formula. Target shade x2, minus virgin colour = depth to apply.
So in this case. 8x2 - 6= 10.
By doing this you can get better lift out of virgin hair without the need to disturb to much of the underlying tone because you will only need to use 6%. In this instance though because you are looking for a copper shade you could use 9% because the underlying pigment (orange) is actually going to add to your result.
I hope this kind of makes sense, I know it's not what all the manufacturers say, but you have to consider the preexisting colour of the hair and how that will add to you final colour.

Thank you so much for your help. X

 

[Rebeccabstylist]

Omg! Some of you people are just being unhelpful and not giving any advice! I would use 30 vol if she has thick resistant hair!!

[text substitution]

 

[cassies97]

Thick hair isn't resistant and you should not change developer dependant on this other than resistant white.

 

[Rebeccabstylist]

I find that clients of mine with thick and/or coarse hair are sometimes resistant to lifting with color.

 

[Claire Olsen]

You don't need 40 volume! Just use regular 20 volume maybe mix some 30 in there but use Olaplex if you have! I use Wella color after highlighting I would use 8/43 as a glaze to give it the copper look you can mix it with some 8/0 to dilute it a little!