Colour theory

[Perry_Althair]

Hey geeks,

I've just been reading over my colour technical manual - Affinage Infiniti - and it says, 'The ph of Infiniti decreases slowly during colour treatment which allows the cuticle to start to close, helping to lock in colour, reduce fade and improve natural shine and texture. The application of a low ph shampoo and *acidic after rinse will improve this action.

Any idea what an * acidic after rinse is? Lol

Also I don't know if this is a stupid question but what do. 'reduced reflect' and 'normal colouring reflects' mean?

 

[SteffiMc]

Hey geeks,

I've just been reading over my colour technical manual - Affinage Infiniti - and it says, 'The ph of Infiniti decreases slowly during colour treatment which allows the cuticle to start to close, helping to lock in colour, reduce fade and improve natural shine and texture. The application of a low ph shampoo and *acidic after rinse will improve this action.

Any idea what an * acidic after rinse is? Lol

Also I don't know if this is a stupid question but what do. 'reduced reflect' and 'normal colouring reflects' mean?

You could use lemon or lime water the acidity tightens up the hair surface, they usually add these in shampoo but they don't tend to worl as well as the shampoo lift it all away xx

 

[SteffiMc]

Quite sure vinegar does it too Hun xx

 

[vix1102]

I too thought that when I read my colour manual as I use the affinage Infiniti colours (I love them!) would be handy to know if someone else knows! I thought maybe a treatment or a conditioner. 😁

 

[SteffiMc]

http://haircrazy.info/hair-science/ph-hair/. Just found that

 

[SteffiMc]

http://www.lifeionizers.com/blog/news-updates/general/ionized-hair-breakthrough. And that lol xx

 

[vix1102]

If your covering resistant hair, darkening the hair or increasing the colour depth it will give u reduced reflect so u will have to use a shade darker & lower % of peroxide to get the full effect of the colour. Normal reflect is someone with normal hair type not grey etc u can use the shade of colour u want & 20col & u will get the full effect of the colour. Hope this makes sense? That's how I understood the manual & it's always worked on my clients 😄x

 

[Perry_Althair]

http://www.lifeionizers.com/blog/news-updates/general/ionized-hair-breakthrough. And that lol xx

Thanks I'll get reading them links ina min

 

[Perry_Althair]

If your covering resistant hair, darkening the hair or increasing the colour depth it will give u reduced reflect so u will have to use a shade darker & lower % of peroxide to get the full effect of the colour. Normal reflect is someone with normal hair type not grey etc u can use the shade of colour u want & 20col & u will get the full effect of the colour. Hope this makes sense? That's how I understood the manual & it's always worked on my clients 😄x

I'm confused lol
So basically this just explains why you choose shades depending on the % of white and why you use 3% for white and darkening?

Or have I not got it? Lol

 

[classixuk]

Hey geeks,

I've just been reading over my colour technical manual - Affinage Infiniti - and it says, 'The ph of Infiniti decreases slowly during colour treatment which allows the cuticle to start to close, helping to lock in colour, reduce fade and improve natural shine and texture. The application of a low ph shampoo and *acidic after rinse will improve this action.

Any idea what an * acidic after rinse is? Lol

Also I don't know if this is a stupid question but what do. 'reduced reflect' and 'normal colouring reflects' mean?

I'm confused lol
So basically this just explains why you choose shades depending on the % of white and why you use 3% for white and darkening?

Or have I not got it? Lol

Basically, it is stating that the PH level of the colour reduces in alkalinity as it oxidises (i.e. becomes more acidic). By the way, this action is speeded up if you apply heat, so be careful if using any heat sources. The best results are achieved without heat.

The acidic after rinse means that you should use an acid based conditioner to help close the cuticle, add shine, and neutralise any remaining alkalinity in the hair.

'Reflects' means 'tones'. For instance, gold reflects in the hair means you can see a .3 tone in the finished colour result. Reduced reflects means not as much visible tone. So, for instance, if you were to mix 6.66 with 6 and 3% to cover grey, the result would have a reduced reflect (wouldn't be as vibrant as 6.66 on someone without grey).

Hope this helps.

 

[Perry_Althair]

Basically, it is stating that the PH level of the colour reduces in alkalinity as it oxidises (i.e. becomes more acidic). By the way, this action is speeded up if you apply heat, so be careful if using any heat sources. The best results are achieved without heat.

The acidic after rinse means that you should use an acid based conditioner to help close the cuticle, add shine, and neutralise any remaining alkalinity in the hair.

'Reflects' means 'tones'. For instance, gold reflects in the hair means you can see a .3 tone in the finished colour result. Reduced reflects means not as much visible tone. So, for instance, if you were to mix 6.66 with 6 and 3% to cover grey, the result would have a reduced reflect (wouldn't be as vibrant as 6.66 on someone without grey).

Hope this helps.

Ah okay thanks that makes sense, so would using 3% just to darken, not to colour white, reduce the reflects also?

 

[classixuk]

Ah okay thanks that makes sense, so would using 3% just to darken, not to colour white, reduce the reflects also?

No. That would actually help maintain the reflects as the underlying pigment within the hair wouldn't be altered as much.

Reflects are reduced by adding a corresponding base shade, as in my example above.

Hope this makes sense.

 

[Perry_Althair]

No. That would actually help maintain the reflects as the underlying pigment within the hair wouldn't be altered as much.

Reflects are reduced by adding a corresponding base shade, as in my example above.

Hope this makes sense.

Oh I see so why does 3% in my manual day reduced reflects? :/

 

[classixuk]

Oh I see so why does 3% in my manual day reduced reflects? :/

Are you reading the manual for bRed? Using that with 3% would give reduced reflects as it's a crystalline colour rather than hexagonal pigment.

 

[Perry_Althair]

Are you reading the manual for bRed? Using that with 3% would give reduced reflects as it's a crystalline colour rather than hexagonal pigment.

Nope for Infiniti :/

I thought with bred the lower peroxide is better for vibrancy?

 

[classixuk]

Nope for Infiniti :/

I thought with bred the lower peroxide is better for vibrancy?

I'm trying to find the part of the manual you mean. Not having much luck though???

http://www.affinage.com/uk/links/AFFINAGE_Technical_Manual_Web_High.pdf

On natural hair with bRed, a lower % is fine, but with previously coloured hair you need a higher % for vibrant results (to shift the undercoat and oxidise previous colour).

To be honest, I wish Affinage UK would bring over the Australian version of Affinage as it's a much better formulation and more advanced. I might consider replacing some of my Majirel if they did.

 

[classixuk]

Morning Perry.

Well, after a good night's sleep, I re-read my last comment and thought, "Is that it? Could that possibly be where you're going wrong?".

And it is. I've just looked up the Australian Affinage Manual, and found what's making you so confused. You're reading the wrong manual.

Affinage in Australia is actually a different company and their formulation is completely different. They used to be one company until about 18 months ago when the Australian distributors broke away from the UK company and launched their own version of Affinage using a different technology (DAT2) which has different mixing rules and a shorter development time (30 minutes without heat).

For their formulation, they state:

3% = Depth on Depth colouring - Darkening (reduced reflect) - Grey coverage

That makes sense. So say you want to take a client who has been previously coloured with 6.66 to 5.6 (5.6 being darker and not as vibrant as 6.66), you would only need to use 3% and not 6%.

But the development times and grey coverage rules are different to the UK formula, so (assuming you're in the UK) you'd need to use the manual I linked to in the post I did last night and not the Australian version if you want to get the best results.

Good luck!

 

[Perry_Althair]

Morning Perry.

Well, after a good night's sleep, I re-read my last comment and thought, "Is that it? Could that possibly be where you're going wrong?".

And it is. I've just looked up the Australian Affinage Manual, and found what's making you so confused. You're reading the wrong manual.

Affinage in Australia is actually a different company and their formulation is completely different. They used to be one company until about 18 months ago when the Australian distributors broke away from the UK company and launched their own version of Affinage using a different technology (DAT2) which has different mixing rules and a shorter development time (30 minutes without heat).

For their formulation, they state:

3% = Depth on Depth colouring - Darkening (reduced reflect) - Grey coverage

That makes sense. So say you want to take a client who has been previously coloured with 6.66 to 5.6 (5.6 being darker and not as vibrant as 6.66), you would only need to use 3% and not 6%.

But the development times and grey coverage rules are different to the UK formula, so (assuming you're in the UK) you'd need to use the manual I linked to in the post I did last night and not the Australian version if you want to get the best results.

Good luck!

oh :/

The manual i'm reading has the same deleopment times as the uk colours though, so now i'm really confused! maybe it's just an older version of the book...i did think i was strange when reading the ice creme info as it says to use with 30/40 vol whereas the ice creme i use says no higher than 20 vol lol thanks for your help!

.....

Just rang affinage and they said its an old manual so they're sending me one in the post

 

[vix1102]

I have the same manual so think I'll be needing to get a new one! xVx

 

[Perry_Althair]

I have the same manual so think I'll be needing to get a new one! xVx

Grey/silver cover? X