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Crazy Colour correction

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Renee76

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My client was platinum and she wanted the Joico titanium root with silver ice ends. It turned out more uneven bands of blue/green shades. I went in with a 10 vol bleach to get rid of the bands and it turned bright orange! The longer it was on the brighter orange/peachy it got?! How does blue turn peach with bleach ? It wasn’t getting lighter it got darker peach if that makes sense? I put straight 8ax on it to get rid of the peach and it went to a warm medium blonde so I added 6a on top of the 8ax and it turned out way better but in the end it wasn’t the cool dark silver root that she wanted! I’ve been doing hair for 27 years and never seen this. Does anyone know what happened? Or has anyone seen this before?
 

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ronray

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Was the titanium a direct dye? If so putting bleach on it was your biggest mistake :/
For future reference you need to start se a direct dye remover such as malibu c DDL
 

Renee76

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Was the titanium a direct dye? If so putting bleach on it was your biggest mistake :/
For future reference you need to start se a direct dye remover such as malibu c DDL
Yes it’s a direct dye, don’t have much experience with the removal of it. Do you know why direct dyes do that? I’ve done it on faded direct dyes and it removes but not a fresh colour.
 

ronray

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Yes it’s a direct dye, don’t have much experience with the removal of it. Do you know why direct dyes do that? I’ve done it on faded direct dyes and it removes but not a fresh colour.
It's because direct dye sits on the surface of the hair the same place as conditioner does whereas oxidative colour sits on the inside. When removing oxidative colour bleach or colour reducers / removers are ideal. But with direct dyes you need a buffer. This buffs the surface of the hair to breakdown the pigment. When you use bleach on hair that's been coloured with direct die, it bypasses the direct pigment and goes inside the hair and lifts the hair so what you'll get is a brighter version of the underlying pigments mixed with the direct colour sat on top :)
 

Renee76

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Wow that’s crazy!! Thank you so much for your explanation and help!!! 😃
 

ronray

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Wow that’s crazy!! Thank you so much for your explanation and help!!! 😃
Joico actually sell they're own remover for the colour intensity range. Just incase you come across this situation again :)
 

Renee76

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Joico actually sell they're own remover for the colour intensity range. Just incase you come across this situation again :)
Joico actually sell they're own remover for the colour intensity range. Just incase you come across this situation again :)
Yes I just saw that thanks
 

SkittleJello

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It's because direct dye sits on the surface of the hair the same place as conditioner does whereas oxidative colour sits on the inside. When removing oxidative colour bleach or colour reducers / removers are ideal. But with direct dyes you need a buffer. This buffs the surface of the hair to breakdown the pigment. When you use bleach on hair that's been coloured with direct die, it bypasses the direct pigment and goes inside the hair and lifts the hair so what you'll get is a brighter version of the underlying pigments mixed with the direct colour sat on top :)
What would you say is the best colour reducer or remover to use when you don't know what your client has used on their hair? :)
 

ronray

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SkittleJello

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Strand test :p
I will always strand test :)
But I'm always worried about not sticking to the brand when trying to remove colour, so I suppose what I'm wondering is if there's a more universal remover or does it not matter?
 

ronray

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I will always strand test :)
But I'm always worried about not sticking to the brand when trying to remove colour, so I suppose what I'm wondering is if there's a more universal remover or does it not matter?
I personally use what find works best. So to strand test the first step is always bleach. Even if I don't end up using bleach what it will show me is whether it can be lifted (if so it's almost guaranteed to be an oxidative colour)
If it doesn't then it's more than likely a stain / direct dye.
What it will also expose is where there's banding if any :)
 

ronray

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When I say what works best for me I mean, I have a selection of bleaches that I stick to regardless of what colour range I am using. My go to colour reducer is affinage Eraser or NXT.
I recently used the schwarzkopf one but I didn't realise its bleach based. It did what I wanted it to, but it lifted the virging hair which I didn't really want it to.
As for removing pure pigment / direct dye It varies from brand to brand. I've found 0/00 + 6% to work for some but not others. I've used malibu c and quite like that.
Apparently pulp riot blank canvas is good but I think that's bleach based also so again you have to be careful how you use it
 

SkittleJello

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When I say what works best for me I mean, I have a selection of bleaches that I stick to regardless of what colour range I am using. My go to colour reducer is affinage Eraser or NXT.
I recently used the schwarzkopf one but I didn't realise its bleach based. It did what I wanted it to, but it lifted the virging hair which I didn't really want it to.
As for removing pure pigment / direct dye It varies from brand to brand. I've found 0/00 + 6% to work for some but not others. I've used malibu c and quite like that.
Apparently pulp riot blank canvas is good but I think that's bleach based also so again you have to be careful how you use it
Brilliant! Thank you :)
 

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