Green hair!!!

[hartey]

Hi guys, its been a while since i was here, but thought i would share this with you lot and see what you think.

Today My client arrived with her bleached white hair, and wanted to go darker(6.3) but to keep a section of her hair white from temple to temple.

Thought no problem so i duly sectioned off the hair we wanted to keep, Pre pigged rest of hair with 10cm of 0/43 mixed with water, left for 15 minutes, blotted the mixture out, at this point client was panicking with her copper hair, but said to her..
" no worries bab, thats suppose to happen, STOPS it going green and helps the colour to stay longer"

I then applied my target shade of 6/0 left to develop for 30 mins (if not longer!) Scraped some of the colour off and it looked lovely so commenced with getting her colour removed, When she came back.....OMG thought it was Grotbags!! she was totally green! Apart from blonde section of course but that had slightly bled too!!

She was defo panicking then, but applied 6/4 in color touch and all was well,

So what/where did I/it go wrong?
thanks for all replies and sorry for long story!

 

[Fuzion]

Rushing around so will b quick, I would have used a red pre pig not copper, I only use copper/gold if required shade is 7 of higher. I would have mixed the 3/4 6 with 1/4 warm tone. Did you use 20 vol peroxide?

 

[hartey]

I used 6%, as i was curiousi phoned the wella helpline and asked them and they told me to do exactly what i did!!!

 

[Lauren21]

OMG what a nightmare but I would have done exactly what you did to pre pig but maybe used some 6/7 in with the 6/0. Whenever I have rung Wella they always tell me to pre pig with the mixes and on a level 6 I would of used 0/43. At least the end result was good but really don't know why it went so green . Sorry not much help am I

 

[hartey]

OMG what a nightmare but I would have done exactly what you did to pre pig but maybe used some 6/7 in with the 6/0. Whenever I have rung Wella they always tell me to pre pig with the mixes and on a level 6 I would of used 0/43. At least the end result was good but really don't know why it went so green . Sorry not much help am I

Lol, no your not!!:hug:

After further questioning while drying her hair, she said she had applied live xxl platinum on, in between the last visit she had with me prior to this appointment, will this have had an effect?

The ends are a bit khaki still, even with the 5/4 on!

they say you live and learn, today I did!!

 

[VIVA.GLAM]

Lol, no your not!!:hug:

After further questioning while drying her hair, she said she had applied live xxl platinum on, in between the last visit she had with me prior to this appointment, will this have had an effect?

The ends are a bit khaki still, even with the 5/4 on!

they say you live and learn, today I did!!

I reckon!!

 

[VIVA.GLAM]

Thus the importance of patch tests, skin tests and consultation. If you think your client is lying about the history of their hair colour... they probably are.

 

[hartey]

Thus the importance of patch tests, skin tests and consultation. If you think your client is lying about the history of their hair colour... they probably are.

Have been doing this client for a while now, did patch test, didnt do strand test as i have done this many time, on numerous clients, and only this time it has turned green!

Which is why i questioned her further, whilst drying her hair for the final time, when she admitted she had used scwharzkopf live "because my mate had used it and it was alright on her"

She mentioned tightening budgets, which is why she has gone darker so her roots dont show so much! Great for her, no good for me lol!

 

[VIVA.GLAM]

It's a shame you let her convince you take her darker. She'll no doubt be back when the colour fades (no fault of your own) as it won't have it's original depth. I find clients like that are going dark for the wrong reason and they end up begging you to make them blonde again afterwards. OR doing it themselves. Next time you have a client like this tell her to have a t-section/parting foils. IF this client comes back, after you've made her dark, and she has DIY'd her hair you're going to have a bigger nightmare on your hands.
As professional colourists, we should be creating a great colour from a blank canvas, not fixing a has-been masterpiece someone has used to wipe their dirty brushes on.

 

[Simba44]

Lol, no your not!!:hug:

After further questioning while drying her hair, she said she had applied live xxl platinum on, in between the last visit she had with me prior to this appointment, will this have had an effect?

The ends are a bit khaki still, even with the 5/4 on!

they say you live and learn, today I did!!

Yes I've heard of this before and even if you tried to put a little red in it will still go green. The silicone base in xxl is resistant to red and repels. So you putting on a brown wouldn't of made any difference. You have to take hera little darker with red added. If you don't take her dark enough the xxl wins the game. Don't be disheartened as I was in a top end salon 3 weeks ago and the boss had the same thing.

 

[-sophisticutz-]

To take to a 6/0, the copper pre-pig was the right thing to do.

I think the mistake was:
a) Using the old method of pre-pigging. This was/is very hit and miss, as the hair is too wet and loaded when you put your target shade on, making the absorption unreliable.
b) Using 6/0 straight. Even with the pre-pig, you need a secondary tone.

When the hair is white, it is uber porous and without pigment. Think of the hair strand as a tunnel. You need to first balance the porosity so that any colour stays put when you apply it. So first a porosity balancer need to be applied on dry hair and dried in. This should even out the cuticle along the strand.
Then apply your pre-pig in the form of a semi, with the lowest available peroxide. I normally go for 2%. This will begin the filling of the tunnel and provide 'padding' for your target shade. For bases 1-4: red, 5-7:copper, 8 upwards: gold.
Wash off and dry, again.
Target shade still needs to have a warm tone in. It will go under the cuticle with the padding and lay on top of the cuticle. Still add a small amount of base to 'anchor' the colour and create depth with the tone. Just a gold secondary tone would be sufficient. Use no stronger than 3%. You are adding tone, not lifting, and you really don't want that cuticle any wider than it is.

Once the colour is removed use a colour sealer to slam that cuticle shut OR a nice deep conditioning treatment to encourage a flatter cuticle.

I always recommend for the client NOT to wash their hair for 48 hrs and send them home with the appropriate home care and the instruction of weekly treatments.