I know this will sound like I am coming from outer space, but it could be that your perm slightly over processed, not because you didn't check it and begin rinsing at the appropriate time, but because you did rinse, most likely with very warm water.
Trot out the old perm chemistry chapter and bear with me......
Ammonium Thioglycolate or one of its derivatives is the most common ingredient in perm solution (reduction lotion, waving lotion, what ever your language gives it, all the same) breaks down the disulfide or S-S bonds to shift them to the new, closer location that they were stretched to by wrapping the hair around the tool.
Chemical reactions usually process in one of two ways, they give off heat (energy) or they require heat (energy) to process. When you take your client over to the basin to rinse her, you generally lean her back and get her comfy, check the temperature of the water and immediately begin rinsing. We all know when the perm is done you need to rinse ASAP. Well that's the kicker-
Once you start rinsing, you've started another chemical reaction, you've added heat- (your water was warm I hope) and this slight change would be equivalent to letting your client process for another 3-5 minutes. That doesn't sound like much, but on a client who is resistant and we have taken the perm solution to the limit any way, it may be just enough to put them past where we wanted and break or damage any potentially weak areas of the hair, usually around the hair line, nape and at the turns of the head where there is more pressure because you are using a rectangular shaped tool. (even though it is cylindrical, it's generally not curved and doesn't accommodate a head which is round or curved)
Elevating bands, replacing cotton wool and checking these areas helps, but the easiest method to help prevent takes only a few seconds and may make the difference. Here it is- Blot quickly with a paper or disposable towel quickly to remove any excess solution before rinsing. A quick once over is enough to do it, hit the key areas, turns of the head, hair line and nape, then lean back and rinse as usual.
Another little trick, air neutralising. Before actually applying your neutraliser or rebonding lotion let you client "air dry" for 5-10 minutes then blot any excess liquid that has come to the surface out. The more water you can get out, the better your rebonding lotion (neutraliser) can work.
These tips are not meant to replace any direction from your manufacturer, but to enhance the procedures and help ensure a successful perm service. They have been thouroughly researched and tested by John Halal, a well known American Cosmetology Instructor and chemist. If you are really interested in the chemistry and science of hair, John's book Hair Structure and Chemistry Simplified is availble on Amazon through Milady, Thompson Learning. I'm not trying to make a sales pitch, but he's the hair messer equivalent to Doug Schoon, great guy with loads of applicable knowledge and a passion for promoting our industry.
