I've really messed up!

[Meraki-x]

Hello I hope someone can help me!! It's a bit of a long one but stay with me,

I had a client yesterday who's hair I first did 18 months ago when it was virgin hair, I bleached the tips and went over with green/blue crazy colour for a kylie Jenner look. She then had other people redo the green and blue when it faded but I'm not sure how competent they were, not that it was a difficult job or even mattered at that point...

She got sick of the green/blue eventually after roughly 6-8 times reapplying the crazy colour and bleached the ends herself 5 times to remove it and used a box colour of an unknown blonde to tone.

She came back to me yesterday she wanted the blonde pulled up higher and pinks and purples. (She's a natural level 4) so I ploughed in with the bleach free painting as I've had successful services previously using this method. I DIDNT LEAVE IT ON LONG ENOUGH. I didn't lift it light enough and over estimated the crazy colour - the pink washed off red. It was awful.

Back in the chair for round 2, I thought the issue would be the fact I hadn't lifted it enough, so I go back through with the bleach, assuming any bits with the pink crazy colour on would just lift to a pale pink as it's just that and the bleach underneath from today. IT TURNED GREEN. I don't understand how because I thought red is the absolute opposite of green when colouring? How can a red lift to green? My initial thought was someone coloured her entire head with the green at some point and it's only now being lifted out but she says not.

At this point it's 9 at night and I can't handle my emotions so I try and cover the lightened bits up with TIGI /2

Obviously because I'm mr bean or something it doesn't grab properly apart from on the 1cm of highly bleached ends and somehow the hair that I've lightened has gone patchy and just awful. This poor girl.

She's coming back tomorrow and I don't know what to do, normally I would foil to try and blend the patchy ness but I'm afraid if I do that they're just going to come out green as well.

Someone please help me what would you do?!

 

[Marie9494]

I don't have any advice for you. But from the picture it doesn't look too bad! I've seen worse things!
Did you take a few test cuttings as you could of played around with those and then know how your correction will come out?

I'm sure your not supposed to bleach out direct dye as it has an opposite effect? Maybe that's what happened.

Sorry. I'm sure someone will be able to help, but it doesn't look that bad! X

 

[Meraki-x]

I did a test cutting for the colour but no longer have it as it came out ok but I didn't get any more.

I didn't know that about bleaching direct dye that's probably what's happened! I suppose I've learnt the hard way lol.

I am at an absolute loss about what to do next, it looks so patchy in real life thanks though x

 

[Marie9494]

I would recommend a semi colour a colour touch or equivalent as they do seem to work with best on hair with uneven porosity!

Yeah I think when you put bleach over direct dye it kinds of 're oxsides the colour and like makes it brighter or pushes the colour further in by opening the cuticle? Or something like that. Now that you've done it already I'm not sure what to suggest really.

I think you can use 10/0 to remove colour? So I don't know what options you have left now. I would have used bleach to take the blonde higher over the hair that has not been dyed with a direct dye. And used 10/0 to remove the direct dye and applied target shade. Unfortunately I'm not sure what to suggest now.

Maybe try lifting it again or using a 10/0 to remove any green? Or toning the qreen out with a darker colour.

I'm sure somebody will be able to advise you with how to re colour but im just as unsure as you now. Perhaps it's a option of just using a semi to get it an even colour. Maybe even using a mahogany semi on the ends to provide a subtle colour effect, maybe a 5 like or a 4 line with a strong purple/red effect on the ends to get a balyage look.

I wonder how a red based magma would lift. But if it's been bleached so many times its not supposed to be used to bleach hair, maybe if used with pastel?

Those would be what I would consider I dont think a colour remover would work now?

But I'm hoping somebody with more experience in this can help out, I'd be interested in hearing how to solve this myself!

Everything I might have said above could be totally wrong, but it's now a very difficult correction made more difficult by you having no idea what has been used previously!

Good luck x

 

[Meraki-x]

It's my own fault for not lifting enough in the first place before the pink I put on, made worse by the fact I tried to lift that with the bleach which made it green

Luckily the /2 seems to have covered the green so it's just a patchy mauve colour but still not acceptable in my opinion!

Stripping it with a colour remover would probably work the best if I had the time to let it settle before recolouring, I haven't had much experience with colour remover - how would it react on the hair that I haven't coloured do you know? But just to add salt to the wound it's the girls birthday today and she's having a big party this weekend so I've got tomorrow to fix my mess and that's it!

I think a semi as you said would probably be the best option and hopefully it will take to the lifted hair to blend it in with the natural hair as much as possible, it's just a shame I'm not more experienced and haven't been able to give this client what she originally wanted. I've got myself in a right pickle!

Thanks for replying either way! If anyone else has any words of wisdom anything is greatly appreciated!

X

 

[Marie9494]

I would recommend a semi colour a colour touch or equivalent as they do seem to work with best on hair with uneven porosity!

Yeah I think when you put bleach over direct dye it kinds of 're oxsides the colour and like makes it brighter or pushes the colour further in by opening the cuticle? Or something like that. Now that you've done it already I'm not sure what to suggest really.

I think you can use 10/0 to remove colour? So I don't know what options you have left now. I would have used bleach to take the blonde higher over the hair that has not been dyed with a direct dye. And used 10/0 to remove the direct dye and applied target shade. Unfortunately I'm not sure what to suggest now.

Maybe try lifting it again or using a 10/0 to remove any green? Or toning the qreen out with a darker colour.

I'm sure somebody will be able to advise you with how to re colour but im just as unsure as you now. Perhaps it's a option of just using a semi to get it an even colour. Maybe even using a mahogany semi on the ends to provide a subtle colour effect, maybe a 5 like or a 4 line with a strong purple/red effect on the ends to get a balyage look.

I wonder how a red based magma would lift. But if it's been bleached so many times its not supposed to be used to bleach hair, maybe if used with pastel?

Those would be what I would consider I dont think a colour remover would work now?

But I'm hoping somebody with more experience in this can help out, I'd be interested in hearing how to solve this myself!

Everything I might have said above could be totally wrong, but it's now a very difficult correction made more difficult by you having no idea what has been used previously!

Good luck x

I don't have much experience with colour remover myself either.. I know that it can leave some colour behind which can 're oxidize tho.

Don't beat yourself up! Mistakes are the best lessons you will ever have maybe, once your semi happy with the colour colour you give her a good will gesture to ensure she is a returning customer? Possibly a free cut and blow with next colour? Or a colour with discount? Some free products to help maintain her hair?

Hopefully she will value your honesty and if she's had it done somewhere other than you in between. Explain the importance of coming to you so that your 100% familiar with what's on the hair!

I'm sure someone will be along to help you (and possibly correct me) haha, would you be able to achieve something like this now?

 

[Dee5]

I'm just marking this for later it's happened me

 

[Meraki-x]

Luckily she was a really patient customer and just said she was impressed I'd somewhat rectified the first mistake I made, the first time I did her hair I was still training and she travelled some way to see me when she found out what salon I was in. Unfortunately for me it's a small salon and I am the only hair stylist so had nobody to call on for advice at the time. She didn't give me any money after what happened but is returning tomorrow for me to hopefully rectify it, I don't know if I can even charge her for product after all this kerfuffle but there's definitely a lesson in all of it!
I will update after I've had a go at it tomorrow! X

 

[Harry Stiles]

From the picture u posted i. Dont think it looks bad at all

 

[AcidPerm]

With direct dyes, especially crazy colour pinks and purples, they're very difficult to remove successfully if they've been repeatedly applied to bleached hair.

Obviously, if your starting point is a base 5 or darker, you need to lighten it to at least a level 8 for the fashion colour to appear vibrant. Unfortunately, the consequence of lightening it (particularly clients who DIY using high vol peroxide mixes) is that the condition of the cuticle layer can be compromised. Direct dye fashion colours fade very quickly initially, but after repeated applications they will last longer...because they have stained the cuticle layer.

In addition, using a bleach mix to remove a direct dye usually has the opposite effect. It will lighten it a little but the bleach continues to push the colour further into the cuticle layer and makes it very difficult to completely remove.

The purples in some colour ranges fade out to a mucky green so I think you've got a green stain from when it was bleached.

There are products marketed to remove direct dye or you can try a clear demi with 6%.

Is the picture you posted how her hair looks now? Where are the green areas and is it quite pale or very khaki looking?

I think at this stage, I'd be looking at getting the hair to look presentable so even up the patchiness with tint and re-do the ends. Manic Panic and Directions are better than crazy colour in my opinion, but there are other brands of direct dye on the market. Splat is a good brand for longevity but a complete bugger to remove.

 

[Meraki-x]

With direct dyes, especially crazy colour pinks and purples, they're very difficult to remove successfully if they've been repeatedly applied to bleached hair.

Obviously, if your starting point is a base 5 or darker, you need to lighten it to at least a level 8 for the fashion colour to appear vibrant. Unfortunately, the consequence of lightening it (particularly clients who DIY using high vol peroxide mixes) is that the condition of the cuticle layer can be compromised. Direct dye fashion colours fade very quickly initially, but after repeated applications they will last longer...because they have stained the cuticle layer.

In addition, using a bleach mix to remove a direct dye usually has the opposite effect. It will lighten it a little but the bleach continues to push the colour further into the cuticle layer and makes it very difficult to completely remove.

The purples in some colour ranges fade out to a mucky green so I think you've got a green stain from when it was bleached.

There are products marketed to remove direct dye or you can try a clear demi with 6%.

Is the picture you posted how her hair looks now? Where are the green areas and is it quite pale or very khaki looking?

I think at this stage, I'd be looking at getting the hair to look presentable so even up the patchiness with tint and re-do the ends. Manic Panic and Directions are better than crazy colour in my opinion, but there are other brands of direct dye on the market. Splat is a good brand for longevity but a complete bugger to remove.

The photo is how it looks now, no longer green as I covered up with a violet (/2 tigi) but I need something darker with a base to cover the patches I think.

I have totally underestimated the crazy colour I was always lead to believe it literally sat on the outside of the cuticle, I know that bleach will open the cuticle but until now have never thought that would result in the direct colour entering the cuticle and also having a result so entirely different! The green it lifted to was so green it lead me to believe it was the real colour that was there before as the tips were MINT green and higher up was a darker green, as I said I have covered the green with violet hoping for a kind of purple sombre look but has ended up wishy washy.

I am very limited with time and resources as I have no time to order anything online due to the next appointment being tomorrow and only a small wholesalers locally, I don't own the salon but am the only stylist and so my stock is also very limited and not in my control. I will recolour on the lightened parts with a semi 4/2 or 5/2 to try to blend and comb through the ends, do you think this will work?

X

 

[Meraki-x]

* direct colour not real colour when describing the mint green that appeared whilst bleaching

 

[Dee5]

Just getting back to you now! But AcidPerm has told you everything I was going to.
It's a fecker to remove as the colour is now sitting in the cuticle. You might also find that cortex is stained and stained blue. Hence when you lift the cuticle layer yellow + blue make green.
I made my client brown in the end it was that or cut it off. Let us know how you go

 

[Meraki-x]

Just getting back to you now! But AcidPerm has told you everything I was going to.
It's a fecker to remove as the colour is now sitting in the cuticle. You might also find that cortex is stained and stained blue. Hence when you lift the cuticle layer yellow + blue make green.
I made my client brown in the end it was that or cut it off. Let us know how you go

I figured a brown was my only option so I'm glad you've said that as well!

I've been tearing my hair out over this (pardon the pun) but as Marie said I suppose mistakes are the best lessons!

Thank you everyone for all your advice, this is the first time I've used this forum and it's amazing! What a valuable tool for a hair dresser it is!

X

 

[Dee5]

If your gonna lift the purple out make sure to add plenty of red. Prepig with red if you can would be better. Try avoid purple I know you were stuck today but again colour wheel red + blue = purple green is yellow and blue..... You get me? I seen my lady 5 times!
She pre lightened herself then put a blue based purple on. Hence how I found out about the cortex staining etc etc

 

[Stylists911]

Ok, well let me tell you what happened, because direct dyes, are a weird dye all to themselves.
To remove a direct dye you NEED ammonia, in the form of a permanent Clear + 20/30vol OR a Highlift color + 30vol OR a lightening Booster like EBC from Matrix + 20vol. OR what I like to use Malibu DDL + 20vol.
The reason the bleach didn't touch a direct dye is because a direct dye has a negative ionic charge, but so does bleach, that's why it didn't lift it out, you need a positive ionic charge of ammonia to pull the direct dye out like a magnet.
The reason it turns green is that direct dyes bases are all green, so even if you tried to get out a purple direct dye it would lose the blue first, then the red that in the color and the last color to come out is green, so when you are green you are close to taking it out and good sign, but if you put a lighter direct dye over one that is still in there it will turn green on you.
So do a Malibu DDL + 20vol or a permanent Clear + 20vol to get out the green and then you can put the tone you want in.
-Mags Kavanaugh
AskMags.com, a Stylists 911

 

[JESICARULTON]

for future reference i would really suggest the brand Adore, the bright, concentrated not like snot like crazy colour etc, the range is epic the amount of colours and shades is brilliant! give it a go

 

[Claire Olsen]

Always make sure you lighten enough before you go ahead and throw on another color.
Your just making your job harder for yourself as you are creating a color build up!
If it's not light enough the first time than always do it a second time if it's healthy enough and use Olaplex if you have!